Coolant Change 101
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 479
Likes: 34
Alright... among the issues of my truck.... I started the coolant flush tonight. With the Thermo in...
saturday we had most the coolant out of the motor. Filled it up with distilled. drove it home..
drained the rad , put 2 bottles VC9 in her. and topped with D.W.
Ran it for a while... got home, drained. black. literally black.
after ten (10) flushes the water is 100x better, but not 100%. still has a yellow tint to it..
do you guys actually get it CLEAR when you drain it? or is it just because im starting off so dirty, that it actually needs 20 flushes not 5.
once again. thanksss
saturday we had most the coolant out of the motor. Filled it up with distilled. drove it home..
drained the rad , put 2 bottles VC9 in her. and topped with D.W.
Ran it for a while... got home, drained. black. literally black.
after ten (10) flushes the water is 100x better, but not 100%. still has a yellow tint to it..
do you guys actually get it CLEAR when you drain it? or is it just because im starting off so dirty, that it actually needs 20 flushes not 5.
once again. thanksss
I'm hitting easy street
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,395
Likes: 27
From: Central Oregon
Here is a link to what I went through for this same question:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-flushing.html
You might find the answer in it. Second page has more input. Mine did get lighter, but not crystal clear.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-flushing.html
You might find the answer in it. Second page has more input. Mine did get lighter, but not crystal clear.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 998
Likes: 23
From: Tennessee
Alright... among the issues of my truck.... I started the coolant flush tonight. With the Thermo in...
saturday we had most the coolant out of the motor. Filled it up with distilled. drove it home..
drained the rad , put 2 bottles VC9 in her. and topped with D.W.
Ran it for a while... got home, drained. black. literally black.
after ten (10) flushes the water is 100x better, but not 100%. still has a yellow tint to it..
do you guys actually get it CLEAR when you drain it? or is it just because im starting off so dirty, that it actually needs 20 flushes not 5.
once again. thanksss
saturday we had most the coolant out of the motor. Filled it up with distilled. drove it home..
drained the rad , put 2 bottles VC9 in her. and topped with D.W.
Ran it for a while... got home, drained. black. literally black.
after ten (10) flushes the water is 100x better, but not 100%. still has a yellow tint to it..
do you guys actually get it CLEAR when you drain it? or is it just because im starting off so dirty, that it actually needs 20 flushes not 5.
once again. thanksss
Last edited by Tennesseepowerstroke; Sep 29, 2010 at 12:24 AM. Reason: spelling
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va.
Your procedure doesn't require block drain plugs to be removed? Also, I read a procedure that goes through a reverse flush by disc heater hose and using a NAPA flush kit to connect a garden hose?
Is all that necessary-you flush seem simpler
Is all that necessary-you flush seem simpler
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
As I see it, the problem with using a garden hose is that you are left with mineral bearing water in the system. Then you have to use distilled water to flush out the mineral water. Since you cannot determine that by color, how will you know?
However, that is exactly what your dealer is likely to do. So if you are satisifed with that method, you might as well just let the dealer do it?
However, that is exactly what your dealer is likely to do. So if you are satisifed with that method, you might as well just let the dealer do it?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
"Coolant Strength concentration check/change: Check every 6 months & initial change 105,00 miles; subsequent changes every 45,000".
"Coolant Strength nitrite strength check: Optional check every 15,000 miles or 600 hours".
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va.
......garden hose
I would think after putting 18 to 20 gallons of distilled water through for mutiple flushes and dosing it with VC9 95% of the mineral laden water would be purged out.
It just seems like the back flush would get rid of most of the heavy contaminants reducing the amount of muliple flushes.
It seems to make more sense to leave the tstat in during flushing and change it, if you want too, before the last fill. Engine would warm up normally which should help the VC9 work better and the flushing would be more efective.
List of things I need: NAPA flush kit (T and pressure reducing fitting) "Gooch's Flush Procedure"
20 gallons of DW
2 cans of VC9
1 can of VC 8 additive for future dosing
tstat and gasket
4 gal of Ford Premium Gold AF
......this list is for my own use as a reminder.
Rich
I would think after putting 18 to 20 gallons of distilled water through for mutiple flushes and dosing it with VC9 95% of the mineral laden water would be purged out.
It just seems like the back flush would get rid of most of the heavy contaminants reducing the amount of muliple flushes.
It seems to make more sense to leave the tstat in during flushing and change it, if you want too, before the last fill. Engine would warm up normally which should help the VC9 work better and the flushing would be more efective.
List of things I need: NAPA flush kit (T and pressure reducing fitting) "Gooch's Flush Procedure"
20 gallons of DW
2 cans of VC9
1 can of VC 8 additive for future dosing
tstat and gasket
4 gal of Ford Premium Gold AF
......this list is for my own use as a reminder.
Rich
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
I would skip the VC-8 additive, and instead buy a package of test strips. There is no point in having the VC-8 on hand if you don't have the test strips. And if I was at 30k or more when the test strips indicated I needed a nitrite boost, I would consider just flushing again.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
You take the t-stat out after you run the VC-9. That is clearly in the instructions.
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling system is empty. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 255
Likes: 6
From: San Mateo, CA
I used the hose for all my chemical flushing, opened the petcock on the rad, put the hose right in the degas bottle and started her up on high idle. I adjusted the hose to meet the demand an let it run for 30 minutes after I was done with the restore and VC9. Then I ran 4 flushes with distilled water and after each I pulled the block plug on the drivers side, rad petcock, and lower rad hose. I did it all with the t-stat removed and actually drove while the chems were in, 90 minutes for the restore and an hour with the VC9. If there is any trace of tap water in there it would be very minute, and I would rather have a trace of that than ANY VC9 left in there.. The hose method worked really well to remove the chems. cheezit stated thats what he does so Im good with that.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va.
'05 diesel:
I'm having trouble finding the right wrench to remove the passenger side block plug. It's just far enough behind the starter that you can't get on it straight. I got the pass. side loose with a 9mm hex socket but the other one is proving a challenge. I'd like to hose back flush through the heater hose as discribe in "Gooches" procedure once I get the plug loose. I think a ball hex will do it. I'm with you after 1 or 2 DW flushes very little tap water is let. Remember years ago-40 to 50yrs., we all just used tap water to flush, fill and top-off. DW is what you used to mix with bourbon-Ha Ha.
DW is the way to go for full long turn protection.
I'm having trouble finding the right wrench to remove the passenger side block plug. It's just far enough behind the starter that you can't get on it straight. I got the pass. side loose with a 9mm hex socket but the other one is proving a challenge. I'd like to hose back flush through the heater hose as discribe in "Gooches" procedure once I get the plug loose. I think a ball hex will do it. I'm with you after 1 or 2 DW flushes very little tap water is let. Remember years ago-40 to 50yrs., we all just used tap water to flush, fill and top-off. DW is what you used to mix with bourbon-Ha Ha.
DW is the way to go for full long turn protection.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, Va.
I'm determined to remove the driv sd plug-look at like a challenge.
I just purchased the ball hex and it looks like it is an 8 mm that I used yesterday to remove the driv sd plug. I mention a 9mm but I think it is an 8mm. Will know this w/e.
I just purchased the ball hex and it looks like it is an 8 mm that I used yesterday to remove the driv sd plug. I mention a 9mm but I think it is an 8mm. Will know this w/e.