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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 04:41 PM
  #31  
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Yes a load test would be a good test to start with.

The pulling the fuse test you put the prongs between the negative post and the battery, with the battery unhooked. If there is a draw, then that means that the circuit you yanked the fuse from, has something wrong with it, and it drains your battery. There are a few common things it can be, like the bulb in the glove box, the interior lights, and the light under the hood, to name a few.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:19 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Northern Gal
I don't know you guys by name, are you talking about a "load" test on the battery?

for fuse pulling test, where am I putting the meter, on the battery? If I pull a fuse, what readings should I be looking for, as there shouldn't be any draw on the battery with the neg cable pulled off the post??? Or am I just way out to lunch? I hate electrical things.
If you hang out here you`ll get to know which ones to watch out for soon enough...
By the way, I really hate electrical most things too!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by preppypyro
Yes a load test would be a good test to start with.

The pulling the fuse test you put the prongs between the negative post and the battery, with the battery unhooked. If there is a draw, then that means that the circuit you yanked the fuse from, has something wrong with it, and it drains your battery. There are a few common things it can be, like the bulb in the glove box, the interior lights, and the light under the hood, to name a few.

Ok NO LAUGHING, I'm really starting to feel stupid.

1. what type of meter thing am I using for this?
2. I put the prongs "between the neg post and the battery", where, in mid air or what????? That phrasing is very confusing to me.
3. no glove box light, no under hood light (just a cheap basic "custom truck, heck, it still had original am radio when I bought it), no interior light (unless I turn the **** on -the switch/button thing for driver's door has never worked since I owned the truck).
4. I need detailed, very descriptive wording, drawings would be good too!!!

Waited 4 hours for a chance to get a load test done at Canadian Tire, told to try again tomorrow, or maybe book an appt, for next Thurs.
We are going down to -20 tonight, and my feet are starting to freeze, as there just doesn't seem to be as good a flow of air from the heater, as there was 2 weeks ago.

Also, I do NOT have a garage, so it's getting harder to work out there, Brrrrrr.

I did notice this evening that the gauge needle bumped up when I turned off the headlights, never did that before, hmmm

I really appreciate all of your help, all of you. Sorry for being such a pain in the - - -!

Morris,can you explain to me why I'm having so much trouble posting on this site, or retrieving messages? I am on another board, for hunting, and have no difficulty at all!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:52 PM
  #34  
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morris will tell ya if not i can summon george!!!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by FORD RANGER
morris will tell ya if not i can summon george!!!

Thanks, its's getting almost as frustrating as the friggin electrical problem with the truck. For example, to read this post, I had to go to the link on my email alert!

I tried going to the web site itself, logged in on the regular board, then when I try to go to this chapter, it will only show me the first couple of posts, and says I'm not logged in. So I login again, and again, again....

Makes it very difficult to follow the "conversation".

Thanks
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #36  
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From: carter lake ia.
thats what the mods are for... hey some of those trucks that year headlight switches were burnt. sorry gal..
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 09:31 PM
  #37  
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you should come over to a BS thread
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 09:34 PM
  #38  
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Hello there Northern Gal.
I had a car with similar problems. The battery would die yet load tests and alt checks and regulators were all fine. The only difference in my situation was the car would eventually die while driving it. It was found to be a blown fusible link in the wiring to the battery.
The issue has been mention that the fan motor windings maybe shorting and drawing the power away. Run the fan for a while like 5 minutes or ten. While it is running see if you can touch the motor casing feel if it is hot. If it is hot then the motor is going and drawing power. That sounds like one problem.
It should not kill your battery over night from sitting.
Yes Electrical issues are not fun to solve.


For the problem of getting to this site. I have typed the site name in my address bar on the top of the pages. I put www.fordtruckenthusiasts.com and hit the enter key. This will save it in the address bar. Then When I want to go to this site I go to the arrow at the end of the address bar and it will show me the sites I have saved there. I then click on the one I want to go to. Like here. Maybe that will help you.
Also have you done a cleaning of your disc and defrag. and clean the cookies. These things slow you comp. down and can have trojan or virus's sitting there that affect you going to certain sites.

Oh btw look out for Ryan (Snowking) He is looking for young girls all the time, so don't let him scare you here. LOL
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #39  
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Hi again,
I don't have a burnt headlight switch, just the thing on the inside of the driver's door, that turns on the dome light. Never worried about much, as I just turned the the headlight/dimmer switch and voila, interior lights.

I've added this site to my "favourites", but still having trouble, but I will deal with the truck first, then this...... Thanks, I'll print off the info so I can follow your recommendations.

What the heck is a BS site, or should I not ask???

Never said how old I was...... hahaha
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 10:21 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Northern Gal
Ok NO LAUGHING, I'm really starting to feel stupid.
Only feel stupid if you dont ask! There are no stupid questions, especially regarding electrical issues.

Originally Posted by Northern Gal
1. what type of meter thing am I using for this?
Best meter to use would be an a multi meter, then you just need to worry about which settings! IF you want to do the test I explained, you will need to test for milliamps.

Originally Posted by Northern Gal
2. I put the prongs "between the neg post and the battery", where, in mid air or what????? That phrasing is very confusing to me.
Yep, in mid air, all you need to do is complete the circuit (so to speak) through the meter, with the prongs of the meter.

Originally Posted by Northern Gal
3. no glove box light, no under hood light (just a cheap basic "custom truck, heck, it still had original am radio when I bought it), no interior light (unless I turn the **** on -the switch/button thing for driver's door has never worked since I owned the truck).
You should be fine there then, thats just a few of the common!

Originally Posted by Northern Gal
4. I need detailed, very descriptive wording, drawings would be good too!!!
Originally Posted by bigmacmonday
With the keys out during this whole test unhook the negative battery cable from the battery. Take a meter that will read milliamps and hook it between the negative cable and negative battery post. If you are reading anything above 25 milliamps you have a parasitic draw. Now you need a second person. One of you hold the meter there and keep reading the milliamps while the other goes to the fuse box and starts pulling fuses one at a time. When the one that is drawing the power is pulled the milliamps will drop on the meter. This will be your culprit whether it be some kind of light or what have you. There should be a fuse map on your fuse box to tell you what each one is for. Your meter will not zero because there are always small things using up small amounts of power when you have the vehicle off like clocks and stuff but there will be a large drop when you find the one that is pulling enough power to drain your battery. If you have more than 25 milliamps draw your battery will be dead or almost dead after sitting all night.
I quickly searched and found that, explains it to a T (and saved me having to type it all!)
Have you searched for your problem on the 87-96 forum on this website? There is a ton of great info.

To wait 4 hours for a battery load test is insane, its like a 30 second test. I would have marched in there and said WTF to a manager! I know a little how the business run up there though, dont even get me started on the walmart up there!!


Originally Posted by Northern Gal
I really appreciate all of your help, all of you. Sorry for being such a pain in the - - -!
Your a female, we expect nothing less!! (see i feel comfortable saying that cause your not within hitting me distance )
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 11:58 PM
  #41  
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Sheldon, you have me so very impressed. Thank you. This is going to take me a day or two to complete, as I live out in the country, and need to round up a 2nd person.

I hate Walmart.

Oh forgot, what class of driver's licence do you have? Do you live on a farm or something similar? HMMMM

Just asking out of curiousity.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:20 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by preppypyro
Only feel stupid if you dont ask! There are no stupid questions, especially regarding electrical issues.

Best meter to use would be an a multi meter, then you just need to worry about which settings! IF you want to do the test I explained, you will need to test for milliamps.

Yep, in mid air, all you need to do is complete the circuit (so to speak) through the meter, with the prongs of the meter.

You should be fine there then, thats just a few of the common!


I quickly searched and found that, explains it to a T (and saved me having to type it all!)
Have you searched for your problem on the 87-96 forum on this website? There is a ton of great info.

To wait 4 hours for a battery load test is insane, its like a 30 second test. I would have marched in there and said WTF to a manager! I know a little how the business run up there though, dont even get me started on the walmart up there!!



Your a female, we expect nothing less!! (see i feel comfortable saying that cause your not within hitting me distance )

I haven't gone to the '86 - '97 forum yet, a bit shy

Between the logging in/on problems I am having here, the electrical truck problems, and job hunting, I am a bit over whelmed. That site seems sooo huge, too many posts/people for me to deal with until I can figure out how to get here easily.


Totally off topic - does anyone know where I can find a Blue Heeler pup. Guess this isn't supposed to be posted here, but, you should know me by now, I can't find my way out of a paper bag, haha. Guess I'll get censored for that - eh Morris

Feel like I'm stupid enough on this smaller site.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:28 AM
  #43  
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By the way guys, forgot to mention, huge job interview with the one and only Ford dealership in town. Right up my alley. Will be spending my pay cheques before I get them. Just too funny!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:51 AM
  #44  
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off topic, .... wait there is no topic. sorry!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:59 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by FORD RANGER
off topic, .... wait there is no topic. sorry!

Hey, I didn't have to log in again

I thought this was "specific" posts. yahoo, let the goodtimes roll.

So, do you know where I can find a nice Blue Heeler puppy, Xmas Gift for myself Lost my special baby March '08, finally decided to find another one. Too friggin lonely up here.
 
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