Alright. Thanks Subford.

 

If I had a leaking injector, wouldn't my oil be over full? I read somewhere that has will leak into the crank case or something. I checked my oil today and it was about a half a quart over full.

 

It might but if you have a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and you turn off the engine and the pressure does not fall fast and holds with out dropping more than 5psi in about a minute then the fuel injectors are not leaking.

 

Will test it again today. Will post my findings.

 

What about being stuck? I mean I feel they're dirty or clogging up. Like starving it for gas. Not necessarily dumping more fuel or what not.

 

Subford, never posted my results, but I have them! Have had them for quite a while. Took my upper intake off to check injectors because we were at our wits end, held fuel rail up while turning key to ON so fuel pump would run, and boom, injector #6 was dribbling. Replaced. Problem solved. So now, many months later, I still have the vacuum to the EGR plugged, but truck runs and drives really good. Except, I now have another problem as to where I have an (I want to call it intermittent) slight stumble/misfire feeling when idling, mainly after I rev the motor, on its way down. I feel the cab shake. I'm still leaning towards the PIP sensor being... failing? Any guidance would be appreciated!

 

Also, I have replaced the ECT, and that's it. Since we last talked.

 

 

 

I'm thinking that I have a bad PIP sensor on my "95 F-150 4.9L.
My problem is that I was driving my truck and it just died going down the road. At first I thought that it was a fuel pump problem but it runs about a second every time that I turn the key on then stops. I have no fire from the ignition coil. I watched a couple YouTubes and found one with Scanner Danner and Eric the Car guy troubleshooting the same truck as mine I believe. When he was checking the ICM input from the PIP it read 10 volts setting still with the key on and was supposed to drop to 4 or 5 volts when cranked. Mine doesn't have the 10 volts to begin with. The PIP is getting 12 volts at the distributor but no voltage seen on the output wire. I guess that I need to verify continuity and no grounding in that conductor from the distributor to the ICM. I'm going to try do do that and look under the distributor cap today between bus routes. I retired from Carrier and am a local school bus driver now.
I have ordered an INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader to get the codes but it'll be the weekend before it arrives.



I'll let you know what I find. Any suggestions on what to check?
I found a very good website on troubleshooting this.

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-1


But I got stopped because I can't get my hands on a simple 12 DC LED to make the tool that he uses in Test #7.

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-5


I do have a Logic Probe that I haven't used. Would that do the same test?

Thanks for your time and help,
Joe