PIP Sensor module for distributor
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
I would not think it to be in the distributor but I have heard others say the PIP can do things like this but I have not seen it.
I would think more like the TP, ECT, IAT sensors or even the computer. Note those three sensor may not give a code as the computer does not know if they are sending the right information to it or not. It only knows that the voltage from them is with in a ball park value.
You would have to test each one to find out if it is bad or not.
I read a lot of post and this is a long thread so I do not know if you have replaced any of those sensors or not and I am not going to re read the whole thing right now.
I have a good memory but it just does not last very long.
I would think more like the TP, ECT, IAT sensors or even the computer. Note those three sensor may not give a code as the computer does not know if they are sending the right information to it or not. It only knows that the voltage from them is with in a ball park value.
You would have to test each one to find out if it is bad or not.
I read a lot of post and this is a long thread so I do not know if you have replaced any of those sensors or not and I am not going to re read the whole thing right now.
I have a good memory but it just does not last very long.
Junior User
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No never changed any of those sensors. Have changed the computer multiple times though. Matched part number and all this time. I know the parts man behind the counter at the local ford dealership. Lol so I'm 90% sure I have the right computer. I have an older spare I can slap in it and see if it changes anything? Can you expand those abbreviations for me? Lol thanks Subford.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
TP = Throttle Position sensor.
ECT = Engine Coolant Temp sensor with two wires to it.
IAT = Intake Air Temp sensor.
The remote mounted on the fender ICM very seldom goes bad but when they do it may not start, run and then stall and other strange things.
ECT = Engine Coolant Temp sensor with two wires to it.
IAT = Intake Air Temp sensor.
The remote mounted on the fender ICM very seldom goes bad but when they do it may not start, run and then stall and other strange things.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
If you have two fuel tanks the valves may be bad in the other fuel tank. This will reduce fuel pressure.
If you have one fuel tank you may have a fuel filter problem or the sock in the fuel tank may have junk in it.
Could also be a bad fuel pressure regulator.
If you have one fuel tank you may have a fuel filter problem or the sock in the fuel tank may have junk in it.
Could also be a bad fuel pressure regulator.
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Could that make it idle weird and skip? I unplugged the FPR when I had the truck running with the gauge on there and the psi went up very fast. So I plugged it back thinking that it was not bad. When I first turn the key on this morning after sitting all night the gauge read 40 psi. Then it bled down to about 35 in less than 5 minutes. So I cranked the truck up and it gave me the specs that I showed above. Even if I revved the motor it would not go about 47 psi.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
If you are talking about the vacuum line to the nipple of the FPR then yes it should go up to about 60psi as that is what the spring is tension is for a 4.9L engine. If you get near 60psi then the fuel system is working right.
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Do you happen to know or have the specs for my FPR? I just read that when you unplug the vacuum line the pressure goes up, demonstrating a full acceleration. Which it did. So with the vacuum line plugged in, and me revving the truck high, the fuel pressure never went up more than 2 or 3 psi rather than up to 60 like it did with the FPR vacuum unplugged. This points me to a bad FPR?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
When revving the truck high and the fuel pressure not going up would mean you still had vacuum on the FPR vacuum line. Sounds like someone has re routed the vacuum line for the FPR to either the emission vacuum source or the vent vacuum source.
The vacuum line from the FPR nipple needs to go right to the intake manifold and no where else with no check valves. Put a vacuum gauge on the vacuum line that you take off the FPR nipple and rev the engine and see if the vacuum drops. It should drop from high 20's to near zero inches of vacuum.
The vacuum line from the FPR nipple needs to go right to the intake manifold and no where else with no check valves. Put a vacuum gauge on the vacuum line that you take off the FPR nipple and rev the engine and see if the vacuum drops. It should drop from high 20's to near zero inches of vacuum.