Thanks to subford for the correct wiring diagrams. I sure appreciate your taking time to help me with this obviously misdocumented subject. The fact that the last push start was in 1993 is the critical information needed. Tomorrow I'll reinstall the old black ICM and enjoy my "new" truck.

 

I installed the old black ICM module, then adjusted the 10 degrees BTDC back where it should be. While doing this, I checked the wiring for pin 4 of the ICM and it did not have the 12 volts supplied by the start switch as the Push Start system would. Subford is right on with his information about the system being a CCD system. The truck runs like new with plenty of pickup and power. Thanks for a great and useful forum with helpful members.

 

I hate to resurrect this old thread, but I need some input. I was having those same symptoms except my truck would run and drive normal except with light throttle pressure and going anywhere between 20-45 mph. When I come to a complete stop at a light, my dummy voltage gauge drops way down and the truck kind of stumbles. I was leaning toward a leaky/stuck/dirty injector or a cracked spark plug. But since I've been reading about the PIP (or pickup coil? Not sure if it's the same thing), I'm leaning towards that. My truck is also seeming like it is down on power, er, if I left off the gas going anywhere from 10-45, and then give it has to get going again, the truck stumbles like its starving for fuel/loading up a cylinder But if I make it downshift, it drives along fine like it should. I'm stumped.

 

Have you checked your alternator lately?

 

Yeah it was replaced about 5 months ago. And I'm assuming the truck hasn't dropped a ground and has good solid connections all the way around.

 

When it starts bogging down, you might want to get a voltage reading. You could have a bad alternator which is sadly common with aftermarket units and rebuilds these days.

 

Thanks. The truck was doing this before and after I replaced the alternator. It wouldn't charge my battery.. At all. I personally think it's that PIP or pickup coil I'm not sure if they're the same in one. But every time I come to a stop, the voltage I my truck drops and you can dang sure tell it.

 

The low voltage on the gauge is from the low RPM. Sounds like a sticking EGR valve or IAC valve.



As to the item in the distributor I am guessing you have a 1993 OBS truck so you have a PIP sensor inside the distributor and no you do not have the pip up coil. The PIP sensor is mounted on the stator inside the distributor.
The pick-up coil in the distributor was used with the old Duraspark II ignition system used with the non computer trucks in the 80s.
The PIP sensor is used with the EEC-IV ignition system. But you will find some that want to call it wrongly the the pick-up coil for no other reason than because it is inside the distributor. There is no coil in the PIP sensor.


You also need to find out if you have any codes stored in the computes memory known as CM. If you have a bad PIP sensor it will show up in CM.

 

If the voltage drops beyond a certain point, the computer *can't* run right. Seriously, check your voltage. I'm suspecting your alternator isn't putting out enough at idle.

 

Thanks Subford. So I'm assuming it would be a better option to replace the whole distributor based on what I've read in previous posts. The truck runs and drives like its supposed to until it starts getting warmed up. And now I'm not even sure what to lean to.. Yes Subford I have a 1993 OBS f150 with the 4.9.

 

I'll check thout voltage at idle too.

 

It feels like its misfiring up until I get into higher speeds (40+)

 

I do not see any reason to change the distributor or replace the PIP sensor at this point.
You need to see if you have any codes in CM. Most of the time when a PIP sensor goes bad the engine stops with no spark.

With an engine at low RPM the voltage will go lower.

As I said above it sounds like you have a sticking EGR valve or a sticking IAC valve.

 

That could also be bad or loose spark plug wires or a spark plug.

 

I wanna say that we've always had a problem with the EGR on this truck. We've owned it since... 2000? I've been driving it for about 7 years now. We rebuilt the motor and all that good stuff 7 years ago. I can suck/blow in the EGR diaphragm and it moves.. But the amount of vacuum the truck is producing may not be enough to move it? I would rather change the IAC or EGR valve instead of the distributor or injectors but we can't always have things go the way we want. Is there any way to test to EGR valve itself? I've read you can test the IAC with a multimeter.. Right?