PIP Sensor module for distributor
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
You could put a vacuum gauge on the green vacuum line and see if it is out putting vacuum at idle.
The EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) controls the opening and closing of the EGR valve. The EVR is an electromagnetic solenoid and should have between 20-70 ohms resistance between the pins. +12volts should be constant on one side from the EEC Relay, the computer controls the ground signal when EGR flow is needed.
When the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) is off, both ports vent slowly to atsmophere.
To test it mechanically check to see if vacuum is present at the EGR valve with the electrical connector unplugged from the EVR. The top port should not have vacuum! Because that would open the EGR at the wrong times.
With everything connected and the engine running ground out the pin 33 side. The EGR vavle should open and the engine RPM should change.
Ford EGR valves will open 50% at 4 inHg of vacuum, and 100% at 8 inHg of vacuum.
The EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) controls the opening and closing of the EGR valve. The EVR is an electromagnetic solenoid and should have between 20-70 ohms resistance between the pins. +12volts should be constant on one side from the EEC Relay, the computer controls the ground signal when EGR flow is needed.
When the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) is off, both ports vent slowly to atsmophere.
To test it mechanically check to see if vacuum is present at the EGR valve with the electrical connector unplugged from the EVR. The top port should not have vacuum! Because that would open the EGR at the wrong times.
With everything connected and the engine running ground out the pin 33 side. The EGR vavle should open and the engine RPM should change.
Ford EGR valves will open 50% at 4 inHg of vacuum, and 100% at 8 inHg of vacuum.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
IAC TESTING
This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAC start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAC. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAC is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAC for inspection.
The IAC can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAC to function properly. Remove the IAC and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAC, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAC needs to be replaced.
This is really easy to test. First as with all problems you should gather the trouble-codes from the computer. Follow the codes for testing and repair. If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAC start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAC. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAC is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAC for inspection.
The IAC can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAC to function properly. Remove the IAC and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAC, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAC needs to be replaced.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
But yes it is the one going to the EGR valve.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 656
Likes: 1
From: New Braunfels
hey yall, just recently got a 95 f150 with the 4.9&4spd just about 164,500k on the ticker, was thinking about rebuilding the distributor, last year i built one in my auto tech class for a 4cyl CJ5, wasnt too hard, would yall still advise against rebuilding one?
oh yeah not to uh
lol
oh yeah not to uh
lol