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hey yall, just recently got a 95 f150 with the 4.9&4spd just about 164,500k on the ticker, was thinking about rebuilding the distributor, last year i built one in my auto tech class for a 4cyl CJ5, wasnt too hard, would yall still advise against rebuilding one?
Most you buy at an auto part store are bad off the shelf unless they are a new distributor. Who said anything against rebuilding one?
What is the plug next to the EVR in my top picture?
Going by the wire color it would be the AIRB solenoid plug.
But it looks like the AIRD solenoid plug is missing.
But I do not see either solenoid in the photo.
Also it looks like the EVR does not have its plug in place.
AIRB: Secondary Air Injection Bypass solenoid.
AIRD: Secondary Air Injection Diverter solenoid.
Thanks Subford. You are the man. I've been reading these forums for about.. 2 or 3 years. And you're always the go to guy about some mysterious problem or some person who needs a crash course in the "easy stuff". Thanks a lot for all of your input. I drove around with the EVR unplugged and it drove farking fantastic. I am just trying to pinpoint and diagnose the culprit of still having vacuum with it unplugged, before I spend money of course. $35 for a new EVR isn't ridiculous but I would rather spend money on the problem. So I'm leaning towards the EVR is bad now. But I didnt really start at one end and do the process of elimination... So what should my next move be?
It is hard to follow your EGR problem.
You say with the EVR unplugged you still have vacuum to the EGR valve with the engine running (idling). At idle you should not have any vacuum to the EGR with the EVR plugged or unplugged. This points to a bad EVR.
Now you say you can unplug the EVR and drive around and it runs great. That does not make much sense unless the EGR valve is closed while you are driving around.
Note that the EGR valve is normally open at hiway speed at part throttle and then closed at idle. If the EGR valve is open at idle the engine will idle very bad.
The EGR valve is close at wide open throttle for max power.
So my EGR valve is possibly bad/stuck closed? It only sort of stumbles with the EVR unplugged when I'm in 3rd gear or OD and I'm giving it more gas to get up to a speed without downshifting. But I think it's partly because I'm running 33x12.50's. I have 3:55 gears.
@subford I thought you said that disassembling a dist. Just to get to the PIP sensor was a p.i.t.a. So I figured you might be advising against it?
You have to take the shaft out after removing the roll pin and then pressing off the gear. Then you have to re-time the engine with the SPOUT out.
But to me that is easier than taking the distributor out and putting it back in about four times while returning it each time before you get a good one from the auto part store.
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