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Correction: There is NOT vacuum to the line with the EVR unplugged. I guess I was just feeling the vibration from the motor. I put the celefan from a pack of cigarettes up to it and it wouldn't even suck that to it. Tried the smoke from a cig too but the fan was moving too much air for that. So no vacuum to the line with it unplugged means bad EVR? It's the original one too.
At this point we are starting all over again.
What we need now is the codes.
You need to run a KOEO self-test and also get the CM codes.
If they both turn out to be 111 or 11 then you need to run the KOER self-test.
Hopefully the codes will give us a hint on where to go from here. You could also block off the EGR valve and see if the problem goes away.
I block the tube when doing it just for a test. Just unscrew it and drop a coin in that just fits down in the nut and then screw it back on but not tight or it will mess up the seat.
You can also use thin sheet metal using the gasket between the EGR valve and the manifold for a pattern. Just remove the two nuts and pull the valve back to get the gasket out and put the block in.
That'll work! Thicker than a soda can though? It doesn't have to be an exact template for now.. Right? I just need to block it to test. Then what? What if it runs better all together with the EVR plugged in?
Blocked off the EGR and the same result. My dad told me that we tried blocking it off before like 5 or 6 years ago with no improvement. At a standstill....
You have to take the shaft out after removing the roll pin and then pressing off the gear. Then you have to re-time the engine with the SPOUT out.
But to me that is easier than taking the distributor out and putting it back in about four times while returning it each time before you get a good one from the auto part store.
Yes, even if it is EFI with EEC-IV and a PCM (EEC) Computer you have to remove the SPOUT shorting bar jumper and re-time the engine with a timing light if you remove or turn the distributor.
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