11-11-2014, 05:45 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Steering and Suspension Guides
- Lowering Kits
Overview of popular modifications to customize your truck
Browse all: Steering and Suspension Guides
Aim/DJM lowering kit thread
#121
07-24-2012, 08:41 PM
#122
07-24-2012, 08:58 PM
I bought the brackets and u bolts from AIM for $100 to relocate the rear axle and I spent about $12 for metal to do my own c-notch.
#123
07-25-2012, 02:10 AM
#124
07-25-2012, 01:34 PM
#125
07-25-2012, 05:12 PM
yeah but my fab skills are good enough that I could return it from whence it came in one weekend.
#126
07-25-2012, 05:24 PM
#127
07-26-2012, 06:35 PM
Well without much help I was able to call around and talk to some people who know a lot about these trucks.
There isn't hardly anything offered for flip kit and c-notch kits other than fatman or aim that are weld on or bolt-on and go. So I was put in touch with WelderSeries.com and was setup with a weld-on notch and boxing plate for under $30. Cheaper than a universal bolt-on notch and cheaper than I could literally build my own weld-on.
This is the plate welderseries offers and all I need to do is cut it to fit the width of my frame rails and I can get both sides out of the $8 piece.
Formed Notch Plate | Welder Series Inc.
Along with that I got a 3/16" thick steel plate 26"x13" all for under $30 shipped to my door. I will be able to start working on my 70 once I finish my 89's paint job.
Just for reference, this is what I was looking for to do on my 70 but it doesnt seem there is much of a market for slamming these beasts on the ground (static drop anyway).
My 89 f150
Maybe somebody will be able to fab up something like this one day and make fatmans prices go down on his kit.
There isn't hardly anything offered for flip kit and c-notch kits other than fatman or aim that are weld on or bolt-on and go. So I was put in touch with WelderSeries.com and was setup with a weld-on notch and boxing plate for under $30. Cheaper than a universal bolt-on notch and cheaper than I could literally build my own weld-on.
This is the plate welderseries offers and all I need to do is cut it to fit the width of my frame rails and I can get both sides out of the $8 piece.
Formed Notch Plate | Welder Series Inc.
Along with that I got a 3/16" thick steel plate 26"x13" all for under $30 shipped to my door. I will be able to start working on my 70 once I finish my 89's paint job.
Just for reference, this is what I was looking for to do on my 70 but it doesnt seem there is much of a market for slamming these beasts on the ground (static drop anyway).
My 89 f150
Maybe somebody will be able to fab up something like this one day and make fatmans prices go down on his kit.
#128
07-26-2012, 07:48 PM
#129
07-26-2012, 09:48 PM
Here's a thread with pics of my c-notch...> http://www.fordification.com/forum/v...hp?f=5&t=56337
#130
07-26-2012, 10:36 PM
#131
07-26-2012, 10:57 PM
The tabs on the saddles were a taste too long and didn't allow the axle tubes to contact/seat into the saddle brackets. I trimmed the tabs and hand filed the area where the tubes seat for a more custom fit.
One thing that isn't in the Fordification thread is that I'm going to also make an extender bracket to bolt onto the lower shock mount tab on the housing that will move the lower mount location of the shock forward a bit. The shocks work well as they are but I'd like them to have a little less angle.
#132
07-26-2012, 11:24 PM
Yes, the kit included u-bolts, plates and saddles.
The tabs on the saddles were a taste too long and didn't allow the axle tubes to contact/seat into the saddle brackets. I trimmed the tabs and hand filed the area where the tubes seat for a more custom fit.
One thing that isn't in the Fordification thread is that I'm going to also make an extender bracket to bolt onto the lower shock mount tab on the housing that will move the lower mount location of the shock forward a bit. The shocks work well as they are but I'd like them to have a little less angle.
The tabs on the saddles were a taste too long and didn't allow the axle tubes to contact/seat into the saddle brackets. I trimmed the tabs and hand filed the area where the tubes seat for a more custom fit.
One thing that isn't in the Fordification thread is that I'm going to also make an extender bracket to bolt onto the lower shock mount tab on the housing that will move the lower mount location of the shock forward a bit. The shocks work well as they are but I'd like them to have a little less angle.
I will stay tuned to your pojects. The most thing that has me curious is when you bought a new drive shaft. When doing a flip kit I was told you actually make the driveshaft longer. That is why there is an inch offset hole in the saddles that is supposed to go towards the front of the truck.
#133
07-27-2012, 07:16 AM
Sweet! I'm happy to hear that. Most the stuff from AIM has been hit or miss for me with bag brackets. I will call them tomorrow and order that kit. Minor trimming wont be to bad for me to do. My notch setup will be similar to yours but I plan on using a triangulated piece of steel. From my experience with lowered trucks both chevy and ford, you can actually get away with a shock angle of almost 120* with proper shocks that have the correct valving for lowered trucks. Doetsch Tech is who I get most my shocks through and they specialize in only shocks for lowered or lifted vehicles. I would be curious to see how you fab up a bracket though. Fatmans looks pretty simply and i know welderseries.com sells shock tabs that can be cut and welded any way to fit.
I will stay tuned to your pojects. The most thing that has me curious is when you bought a new drive shaft. When doing a flip kit I was told you actually make the driveshaft longer. That is why there is an inch offset hole in the saddles that is supposed to go towards the front of the truck.
I will stay tuned to your pojects. The most thing that has me curious is when you bought a new drive shaft. When doing a flip kit I was told you actually make the driveshaft longer. That is why there is an inch offset hole in the saddles that is supposed to go towards the front of the truck.
#134
04-03-2013, 10:45 PM
Alright guys. Sorry for taking so long to post up pics. I cam down with a nasty case of the flu. So, as excited as I was....I hurt too bad to even take any pics. Anyways, I just took some quick cell phone pics, so you guys could get an idea of what she looks like. When I feel better, I will get some pics with the DSLR, that I've been documenting the entire build with.
As far as overall opinions... despite all the troubles getting the correct parts, I am extremely happy with the final results. It sits nice and low. Now let me tell you this. FOr everyone questioning William William about ride quality, and the clearance of the bump stop.....He was 100% correct. The clearance is almost identical to mine. I drove it for about half an hour, taking city streets, a little bit of off road (dirt), and highway driving. I braked hard, accelerated hard, and turned in and out of a steep driveway. It handles like a dream!!!! Much better than before. The ride is actually better than before as well. (probably because of the new shocks) I could probably go another half inch lower in the rear, because I did not remove any of the leaf springs. I'm going to wait until my wheels get here, to finally see it's going to sit.
Either way, I'm satisfied!
nice again, sorry for the crappy cell phone pics....
Before-
After-
As far as overall opinions... despite all the troubles getting the correct parts, I am extremely happy with the final results. It sits nice and low. Now let me tell you this. FOr everyone questioning William William about ride quality, and the clearance of the bump stop.....He was 100% correct. The clearance is almost identical to mine. I drove it for about half an hour, taking city streets, a little bit of off road (dirt), and highway driving. I braked hard, accelerated hard, and turned in and out of a steep driveway. It handles like a dream!!!! Much better than before. The ride is actually better than before as well. (probably because of the new shocks) I could probably go another half inch lower in the rear, because I did not remove any of the leaf springs. I'm going to wait until my wheels get here, to finally see it's going to sit.
Either way, I'm satisfied!
nice again, sorry for the crappy cell phone pics....
Before-
After-
And what size are these wheels and tires, and what sizes are you looking to get?
If you don't mind me asking?
Thanks
#135
04-04-2013, 10:57 AM
