ND Chat and Other Meaniful Posts
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 99
From: North Dakota
They are good, but for the rear a locker would be better.. A Detroit locker would be great. I have never used a rig with a true trac in the rear, but have used them in the front. They are a good unit, and infact I'm going to be putting one in the front of my pickup when my Dad puts a Detroit locker in the front of his wheeler to replace the true trac because he wants more traction in his wheeler..
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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I see and for the cost of the aussie locker compared to the detroit locker its a no brainier for my beater. It looks like the true trac is a simular unit to what I had installed on my FWD grand prix. Well i kind feel like I should probably break something to justify semi rebuilding the axles. haha
I was looking for u joints and ball joints for the front end, but it doesn't look like spicer sells grease-able ones. Is that what people are using? Must be I guess. I was kinda hoping on at least the ball joints to have zerks in them.
How tough is it to put all the parts into the new carrier? I would assume that might be a pain for a noob.
I was looking for u joints and ball joints for the front end, but it doesn't look like spicer sells grease-able ones. Is that what people are using? Must be I guess. I was kinda hoping on at least the ball joints to have zerks in them.
How tough is it to put all the parts into the new carrier? I would assume that might be a pain for a noob.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 99
From: North Dakota
I run non greasables in my axle shafts, but the greasable ones in the driveshafts. As for ball joints, I would just buy some greasables in town as long as you get the ones with a lifetime warranty you should be good.
Swappin the guts in the carrier over is easy as pie too
Swappin the guts in the carrier over is easy as pie too
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 539
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Ok thats good to know. I'll probably just hit up napa for the ball joints then. I'm thinking I'll have to check around for some write ups or at least but a haynes manual. lol I know its something I want to do I just need to make sure I have a clear understanding of what I'm doing before I go in.
Is there any modifications you needed to make anywhere to install the gears and locker? As in any grinding or drilling modifying of stock parts?
Is there any modifications you needed to make anywhere to install the gears and locker? As in any grinding or drilling modifying of stock parts?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 539
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Well that don't sound to bad. Do you have a pic of what/how much you ground down? What do you need the micrometer for? I would assume its for gear tolerance but I guess I don't know. Whats the dial indicator used for? I guess I've never uses any of these before.
I just noticed your earlier post about a hardened pin for the aussie locker, does that come with the locker? I assume this is the pin that you need to grind a tooth to get in, it that right?
I really appreciate your time you've taken to answer these for me Dave. I promise to make it up to you.
I just noticed your earlier post about a hardened pin for the aussie locker, does that come with the locker? I assume this is the pin that you need to grind a tooth to get in, it that right?
I really appreciate your time you've taken to answer these for me Dave. I promise to make it up to you.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 99
From: North Dakota
I don't have a pic of the gears after I ground on them, there wasn't much though. I use the micrometer to pick shims to use when setting the carrier and pinion up, the dial indicator. Is for backlash. But I just go by feel for that now, so I just use the micrometer and the "paint" that comes in the rebuild kit for checking the gear pattern. I got lucky when I did the rear of mine, and the stock shims that came in the rear axle is what I used to set up the news gears and the pattern and backlash was perfect.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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How do you determine the tolerance needed between the carrier and pinion? Is it a general rule of thumb or should you be shooting for a certain point? Same with backlash, how do you determine the correct point?
You mentioned the hardened pin, does that come with the locker or do I need to buy this separately?
On a different note, looks like its going to be a rainy weekend. Think you'll get that wheeler out this weekend? Only one week to test before the big trip.
You mentioned the hardened pin, does that come with the locker or do I need to buy this separately?
On a different note, looks like its going to be a rainy weekend. Think you'll get that wheeler out this weekend? Only one week to test before the big trip.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 99
From: North Dakota
Pinion should ride on the middle of the ring gear teeth. The backlash is how far the ring gear can move without the pinion moving. Its very little don't remember exact # but .008 comes to mind.
I'm sure after I get caught up on stuff I could help you out with the swap.
As for the wheeler, I gave it a bit of a test out by my house already. That will be good enough. I have too much stuff to do before next weekend
I'm sure after I get caught up on stuff I could help you out with the swap.
As for the wheeler, I gave it a bit of a test out by my house already. That will be good enough. I have too much stuff to do before next weekend
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 539
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Ok I have a better understanding now. I'll probably see what I can do budget wise, it may take me a few weeks or even a month to save up a bit and order the parts.
Now with that aussie locker, do you think the stock open case can handle the load? I was told that turns into a major weak point. I know my truck doesn't have a lot of power so maybe its impossible to even break one.
Now that's an offer I can't refuse, it would take a lot less time guessing and teach me how to correctly do it the first time with you around. I'm in no real hurry and doubt I'll even have the time for a while as well. We'll keep in touch about a good time for both of us. Thanks again
Now with that aussie locker, do you think the stock open case can handle the load? I was told that turns into a major weak point. I know my truck doesn't have a lot of power so maybe its impossible to even break one.
Now that's an offer I can't refuse, it would take a lot less time guessing and teach me how to correctly do it the first time with you around. I'm in no real hurry and doubt I'll even have the time for a while as well. We'll keep in touch about a good time for both of us. Thanks again
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 99
From: North Dakota
Well as for the stock case being too weak, I really hope not! You running a 302 also? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. I got my new spring hangers and shackles put on the DD this weekend.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 99
From: North Dakota
On a side note, I went to a bon fire at the Desert Saturday night, and it got quite muddy down there when it down pored at 11pm. It was kinda fun sliding around in two wheel drive. Can't wait to go to Glendive Thursaday.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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Well I guess all we can do is hope when it comes down to the case. I'm thinking it would be best to just install one up front rate away as well. Would I need anything else besides the locker to do that? Or what do you think about that?
I figured the desert would be pretty sloppy, i've been wanting to get down there all weekend. I was actually considering driving down there rate now. Probably won't get to crazy but at least sling some mud around.
You'll have to get some pics and vids this weekend. Should be a nice weekend for some wheeling.
I figured the desert would be pretty sloppy, i've been wanting to get down there all weekend. I was actually considering driving down there rate now. Probably won't get to crazy but at least sling some mud around.
You'll have to get some pics and vids this weekend. Should be a nice weekend for some wheeling.
