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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

A little progress today.....

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Old May 20, 2009 | 02:09 AM
  #31  
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From: Blue Eye, mo. hwy 86 & JJ
send me a Pm of what you want for the 351W manifold, and is it a dual plane?
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 04:43 PM
  #32  
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check out this site for the "how to" in widening steel wheels Widening Steel Wheels - FordMuscle.com

gt
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 05:06 PM
  #33  
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That's a good article but not relevant to our 5 x 5 1/2" bolt pattern wheels.

As we have already found out, they do make 15x8's in our BP.

What I need now is a 15 x 10-12 wheel which I will have to fab.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 05:33 PM
  #34  
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You're crazy, Stosh.

I'd like to have 5 x 10's. Hey, does anyone know what the widest 31'' tall mudding tire would be? Can you get a 31x12.50 mudder? How about 11.50?

Sorry to Hijack, Stosh, but I have a hunch you may be able to answer my question.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 06:23 PM
  #35  
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BFG used to make a 325/60?/15 which was a 31x12.50x15 but i dont know if they do anymore.

Stosh.. can you buy a white wagon wheel in the width you need and paint it to match your front 2? I know there are prob 10 differt companys that make wagon wheels and none of them look alike. Maybe one will closly match yours
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #36  
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I don't believe 31X12.50's exist any longer. The most common is 31 X10.50. I'm not about to buy any aftermarket wagon wheels. I insist on using OEM wheels and will cut them in half and widen them. Like I said before, I plan on making a machine to do them any way. There is a big demand for widened factory steelies these days and I may be able to make some money doing it.

On a side note: I have been measuring used 33 X 12.50's and they are coming right in around 31 1/2" tall. That's going to be perfect for my rear axle. I have also looked at several sets of 295/50's, but they just don't fill up the wheel wells like I want.

And now for something completely different. I did some research last night on how to clean the intake manifold without bead blasting it for two reasons:
  • 1) I'm too cheap to pay someone to bead blast it.
  • 2) Bead blasting (sand or glass) embeds itself into the pores of the aluminum and they are impossible to get out. Once the engine heats up, they tend to fall out of the pores and end up in your oil pump and can destroy an engine very quickly.

After doing some reading, it turns out that a good quality mag wheel cleaner will do the job nicely.

I picked up a bottle of Eagle 1 Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner from Advance Auto today for about $6.00 and thought that I'd give it a shot. After 3 applications and letting it sit for while (they don't recommend more than 30 seconds - but this was pretty nasty and I left it on for about 2 minutes) and using an old tooth brush here is what I ended up with, and it's not too shabby:





I think I'm going to take the single plane Edelbrock off of my truck and put this dual plane manifold on instead. I still have some spots that will need a little more detailing tomorrow with a small wire brush and then I'm probably going to spray some clear coat on it. It will yellow a little over time, but it's better than letting it oxidize again.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 06:56 PM
  #37  
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I should come up to your part of PA and hit the yards with you. $6 for a wheel is outstanding...can't do that around here.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 07:13 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by uncle.stosh
I don't believe 31X12.50's exist any longer. The most common is 31 X10.50. I'm not about to buy any aftermarket wagon wheels. I insist on using OEM wheels and will cut them in half and widen them. Like I said before, I plan on making a machine to do them any way. There is a big demand for widened factory steelies these days and I may be able to make some money doing it.

On a side note: I have been measuring used 33 X 12.50's and they are coming right in around 31 1/2" tall. That's going to be perfect for my rear axle. I have also looked at several sets of 295/50's, but they just don't fill up the wheel wells like I want.

And now for something completely different. I did some research last night on how to clean the intake manifold without bead blasting it for two reasons:
  • 1) I'm too cheap to pay someone to bead blast it.
  • 2) Bead blasting (sand or glass) embeds itself into the pores of the aluminum and they are impossible to get out. Once the engine heats up, they tend to fall out of the pores and end up in your oil pump and can destroy an engine very quickly.

After doing some reading, it turns out that a good quality mag wheel cleaner will do the job nicely.

I picked up a bottle of Eagle 1 Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner from Advance Auto today for about $6.00 and thought that I'd give it a shot. After 3 applications and letting it sit for while (they don't recommend more than 30 seconds - but this was pretty nasty and I left it on for about 2 minutes) and using an old tooth brush here is what I ended up with, and it's not too shabby:





I think I'm going to take the single plane Edelbrock off of my truck and put this dual plane manifold on instead. I still have some spots that will need a little more detailing tomorrow with a small wire brush and then I'm probably going to spray some clear coat on it. It will yellow a little over time, but it's better than letting it oxidize again.
Looks good stosh. Napa used to have a mag wheel cleaner that would do the same thing, had hydrocloric acid in it. works awesome. You can tell when it starts to foam on corroded alum
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #39  
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From: patricia ab canada
hey stosh eastwood had a clear coat for aluminum that's not supposed to yellow.i just got their catalog and found it in there.just an idea.p.s. cool finds.
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #40  
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for my dump truck wheels, I mix 1 oz muratic acid, 2 tea spoons dawn , and 1 qt warm water. spray it on the aluminum, it will foam. rinse after foam slows down, and do it all over again. when it don't foam any more, rinse, it's clean. go to the truck stop, and get some "poor man's polish", that's actually the name, and rub it in with a soft cloth. remove it with a terry cloth, your aluminum will look like a mirror
 
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Old May 20, 2009 | 08:28 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 86bigred
hey stosh eastwood had a clear coat for aluminum that's not supposed to yellow.i just got their catalog and found it in there.just an idea.p.s. cool finds.
Thanks.
I'll take a look.
 
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Old May 21, 2009 | 06:15 PM
  #42  
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Well, I just got back from a LONG and HOT day of shopping at two different yards today and stopped by a used tire place near my house on the way home.

They had two pretty nice 33 x 12.50 R15's there and I was able to talk the guy into letting me have them for $20 each.

Got them all mounted up and threw them on the back of the Rat Rod. It looks like they are barely going to clear the fenders once I drop the rear axle with a home brewed "flip kit". I ordered a pair of universal rear spring hangers from Summit Racing and they came today too: $17 to my door in two days.

Here are a couple of shots of the 33's on the truck. Man, there is a LOT of room there! The new plan is to run some 30 x 9.50's up front. It will of course be dropped too.





 
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Old May 21, 2009 | 06:19 PM
  #43  
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i'm gonna have to learn how to weld arent i? i see it coming. y'all are too full of fun ideas i have no way to execute. welding class. yup.
 
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Old May 21, 2009 | 06:23 PM
  #44  
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Em, I looked at nearly 500 trucks today and could not find another lock slider for you. I did find some other goodies though! Pics and story in another thread.

If you want, I can send you this one and keep looking or I can hold on to it for you. Let me know either way.......

-stosh
 
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Old May 21, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #45  
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holy crap 500 trucks?! dang that's crazy! sad luck for Em though...i'll switch to PM so i dont hijack your thread
 
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