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I have AE, so Ill do a before and after, IPR %, and PSI vs rpm.. Anything else I should put in there? Any " I wish I woulda" 's for the folk who havent already "been there" in the hpop swapout? Ive done injectors, etc before.
EDIT, like Ive said before, my hpop on 120r seems to be in the 2100 range. So looking forward to the improvement.
I have AE, so Ill do a before and after, IPR %, and PSI vs rpm.. Anything else I should put in there? Any " I wish I woulda" 's for the folk who havent already "been there" in the hpop swapout? Ive done injectors, etc before.
Maybe just add injector pulse width to your list.
If I were going to do the job again I would probably go ahead and remove the HPOP reservoir cover. There are a few times...like when you are maneuvering the pump into place while holding the mount bolts in the pump while balancing the gasket on the bolts... that the extra room would have come in handy.
The fuel lines are also easier to remove from the filter bowl if you pop the GPR/IAH bracket loose and move it out of the way.
Sounds like a plan. Ill do some recording the night before, and always have rpm as a reference. When I pull the fuel lines off, I plan to replace them without the check valves inside them anymore also.
If I were going to do the job again I would probably go ahead and remove the HPOP reservoir cover. There are a few times...like when you are maneuvering the pump into place while holding the mount bolts in the pump while balancing the gasket on the bolts... that the extra room would have come in handy.
The fuel lines are also easier to remove from the filter bowl if you pop the GPR/IAH bracket loose and move it out of the way.
I ordered the HPOP reservoir gasket at the same time I ordered the Adrenaline. It was like 17 dollars and change. I also just ordered o-rings and parker sleeves from Guzzle for my fuel bowl and HPOP fittngs. Yes, sorry to say I still have a fuel bowl.
Originally Posted by rebelchevy02
Sounds like a plan. Ill do some recording the night before, and always have rpm as a reference. When I pull the fuel lines off, I plan to replace them without the check valves inside them anymore also.
Good idea Mike on removing the check valve retrictions while doing the HPOP r&r.
I may be getting a hold of one of you if I have trouble data-logging all this.
I also have a PMT1 PCM to go in but will have to wait on that. My DP Tuner will not work with a PMT1 until Jody retunes it. I have an XLE4 PCM right now. At least I will have some numbers to compare the XLE to the PMT to see if there is an improvement.
So much to do and to little time and money to do it.
Our early 99 still has a XLE4 pcm. I cant seem to find rotational velocity in AE for it, but I didnt look too terribly long and hard for it. I had just wanted to see what it was on it one night, after I replaced the injectors with AC's. Im by no means an AE expert, and dont use it too terribly much, but I will be using it more for this test. But Im always glad to try to help. Ill pm ya my number.
Our early 99 still has a XLE4 pcm. I cant seem to find rotational velocity in AE for it, but I didnt look too terribly long and hard for it. I had just wanted to see what it was on it one night, after I replaced the injectors with AC's. Im by no means an AE expert, and dont use it too terribly much, but I will be using it more for this test. But Im always glad to try to help. Ill pm ya my number.
I appreciate the offer Mike. The XLE4 does not do rotational velocity. I found this out after searching in vain for it. I can usually get all the tests running but have a hard time saving them. I will practice a bit this week.
The headbolts could/can stretch.
I checked the napp online and could not pull
the part # up.
We do not use the stuff anymore.
We use exhaust analysis probe in the tank.
Just catch this now before it starts to drink the coolant
if it is a HG. The rod should still be OK.
I'm probably way off on this but thought to throw it out there any way. Is it possible that the t-stat is sticking partially? Letting just enough coolant to flow so that it dosen't overheat but enough to build a little too much pressure?
I'm probably way off on this but thought to throw it out there any way. Is it possible that the t-stat is sticking partially? Letting just enough coolant to flow so that it dosen't overheat but enough to build a little too much pressure?
I actually just had this happen on my Dodge Dakota. T-stat stuck part way open, but it blew the seals in the radiator. The tanks started leaking and I ended up changing the radiator. It is possible to pressurize the heads with the T-stat almost all the way closed.