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Ok, just researched the stats. My new one is a 205*, old one is a 203*. That is probably the cause of my temp gauge going up right? I'm scared to run this in Florida being as we get 100* summer days.
I kinda figured they wouldnt sell anything that could hurt your motor, I was just tryin to figure out why I used to run on N, then changed pump, stat, and had radiator leak fixed. Now it runs on MA.
Another way to tell the 94/95 short stem t'stat pumps from the 96/03 long stem t'stat pumps is by the threads on the 5/8 hose barb for the return line. The early pumps had tapered pipe threads and later ones used a straight thread o-ringed fitting.
Rod
You might be onto something.
I have 2 casted lower pumps here with o-ring returns.
They both use Long stat. Possible the casted and pipe thread
are short stat.
All oem ford casted pumps were short stats. Its the IH pumps
and remans where the mistake can be made. (long vs short stat).
I kinda figured they wouldnt sell anything that could hurt your motor, I was just tryin to figure out why I used to run on N, then changed pump, stat, and had radiator leak fixed. Now it runs on MA.
Could have been running to cold before the repairs.
I kinda figured they wouldnt sell anything that could hurt your motor, I was just tryin to figure out why I used to run on N, then changed pump, stat, and had radiator leak fixed. Now it runs on MA.
Could be a resistance thing with the sending unit.
Originally Posted by MADVAN
Rod
You might be onto something.
I have 2 casted lower pumps here with o-ring returns.
They both use Long stat. Possible the casted and pipe thread
are short stat.
All oem ford casted pumps were short stats. Its the IH pumps
and remans where the mistake can be made. (long vs short stat).
Bill
I don't know about the lower hose elbow. I have never paid much attention to it. But Rod is right on the heater hose stand. Last time I did my WP I put a 95 pump on so I can buy a 203 stat anywhere I wanted at and not at Dieselsite and that was the only difference other than the stat. Not sure about the lower neck but I do think it was cast and not bolt on. I will check later.
Here's a few pictures of the bolt on, 1st & 2nd picts, and cast on lower rad hose opening, 3rd pict.
The long stat has 7/16" clearance between the stat and the bypass seat in the pump. 1st pict
There is 11/16" difference between the short and long stat.
The last picture is a 7 year old pump, 110k miles, just replaced it. I chopped the seat down to clear a long stat. Did that before i found this site. . Chopped it too far, the the bypass was open all that time...no engine damage.
Notice the pump it self is bolted into the housing or pressed into it.
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kevin
so the only problem your having now is leaks?
your part # didnt match up with a long t stat, guess you have a short one with the water pump that matches up with a short one?
if you are in need of the long neck thermostat housing , i have one in my pile of parts that is waithing to get put on my truck. brand new from dieselsite. if you need it to get you going , im willing to part with it to get ya going and i'll order another one.
let me know.
kevin
so the only problem your having now is leaks?
your part # didnt match up with a long t stat, guess you have a short one with the water pump that matches up with a short one?
if you are in need of the long neck thermostat housing , i have one in my pile of parts that is waithing to get put on my truck. brand new from dieselsite. if you need it to get you going , im willing to part with it to get ya going and i'll order another one.
let me know.
Everything matches up, I guess I just need to get an aftermarket water temp gauge now to really see where I'm at. No leaks now. The neck is all sealed up with silicone. But I do need to replace it because the inside is completely rusted. The stat housing was the only thing I re-used. Thanks for the offer but I should have some time to order one. The rust isnt bad enough to eat through it for awhile. But thanks again