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About a month ago I pulled my radiator to have it rodded and a small leak fixed. Turned out my cap was bad too. It was a 16lb cap. The guy at the radiator shop said 16 is way too big that I should run a 7lb cap. He said the 16 is probably what caused my leak. So I went bought a 7lb cap. At the same time I changed my water pump and flushed the system. Got it all back together, circulates excellent, but runs hotter than before. On the stock guage before, it never got above the N. Now it rides between the MA of NORMAL. Is the cap my issue? I mean is 16lbs what should be used? What are you guys running? I havent tried a different cap because I figured the guy who owned the shop knew what he was talking about. Didnt want to risk another hole. Any help appreciated.
the pressure doesn't change the temp of the water, it changes the boiling temp of the water.
I have never had a problem lowering the pressure in any of my systems.
it sounds like a temp sensor or thermostat problem.
check the temp with a digital gauge and see what temp it is actually running at.
every pound of cap pressure raises the boiling point 2 degrees, but it does have to hold that amt. of pressure on the system to do that. 16 is not that uncommon of a cap pressure. stick an actual thermometer in your radiator and warm up the engine (in the drive way) then compare the reading to the gauge, now you know what the actual temp is at that point. if it is real high wanting and to boil i would wonder what kind of a rod job i got.
Or....take it for a drive and then use a no contact thermometer (Infra-red) off of the thermostat housing and that also will tell you what the temp is with the radiator cap in place.
Did you replace the thermostat when you did the water pump?
Different 'stat = different temp. BTW: the difference you see on the gauge may not be all that much anyway....maybe 5-10º
x2, never heard of the pressure changing the temperature. I would suspect the rad guy has no clue what he's doing -or- he is just protecting his 'work' on the leak repair, less pressure = less chance of the leak coming back. IMHO, The only thing he "rodded" was your wallet.
Did you replace the thermostat when you did the water pump?
Different 'stat = different temp. BTW: the difference you see on the gauge may not be all that much anyway....maybe 5-10º
x2, never heard of the pressure changing the temperature. I would suspect the rad guy has no clue what he's doing -or- he is just protecting his 'work' on the leak repair, less pressure = less chance of the leak coming back. IMHO, The only thing he "rodded" was your wallet.
Lol on the wallet part. I did change the thermostat but with the same Stant one it had in it before from Advance Auto. I also replaced the sender a couple months back so it was reading the old temps and new ones. I'm gonna talk to my buddy who does A/C and use his infared thermometer. Thanks for the help
just a question could you have installed the thermostat upside down?, assuming the repair was done correctly to the radiator, wouldn't be the first time seen this.
just a question could you have installed the thermostat upside down?, assuming the repair was done correctly to the radiator, wouldn't be the first time seen this.
No, I even questioned myself on that one so I pulled it out and checked it again. Then checked the manual then called a friend. I have the springs headin south into the thermostat housing.
Lol on the wallet part. I did change the thermostat but with the same Stant one it had in it before from Advance Auto.
Nice you can laugh at gettin' rodded, LOL You gotta be thick-skinned to work
on some of these things.
Same thermostat manufacturer will have slight difference in temp's. Had them go bad right out of the box too. The infra-red therm will get you the real #'s.
Nice you can laugh at gettin' rodded, LOL You gotta be thick-skinned to work
on some of these things.
Same thermostat manufacturer will have slight difference in temp's. Had them go bad right out of the box too. The infra-red therm will get you the real #'s.
Since the ford gauge only says NORMAL what are the normal operating temps? I'll take the temp tonight.
And he did fix the leak so even if being rodded didnt help it he only charged me 80$. Thats not too bad.
according to advance auto
you probablly bought
asc part #wp9128
they list the same part # for obs and super dootie.
i dont really know how they could do this since they are different.
nick prolly gave you a short t stat . you have to watch him, he'll give you the wrong part sometimes. their computer is bad for part#'s at least that my experience.
long stem t stat is exactly 1 3/4" from gasket base to the bottom.
according to advance auto
you probablly bought
asc part #wp9128
they list the same part # for obs and super dootie.
i dont really know how they could do this since they are different.
nick prolly gave you a short t stat . you have to watch him, he'll give you the wrong part sometimes. their computer is bad for part#'s at least that my experience.
long stem t stat is exactly 1 3/4" from gasket base to the bottom.
Well I got the pump at the forest location and stat at the ocala. but just took measurements off the old stat, new one is the same size as the old. They are:
gasket base to bottom - 1 1/4"
entire length top to bottom - 2 1/8"