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1999 FORD Back window moulding

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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 04:45 PM
  #1  
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Thumbs up 1999 FORD Back window moulding

I have a 1999 Ford F-150 4x4 that has a leak around the back window. My question is does anyone know how to remove the plastic moulding that is around the window? Its Plastic about 3" wide around window!
I tried to use a door panel removal tool and it seems like it was wanting to come off, but I stopped as i did not want to break anything. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Tim
 
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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This is a very infamous leak spot on these trucks and i do believe in order to fix it you need to remove the rear window all together and get either new stripping(or un-pinch the current stuff) and i have seen a post somewhere it is quite a process to remove the window you need to do it from the inside of the truck and remove the rear seat backing(if its ext cab)...try searching th forums or google on a description of removing the window.

THNX
Duggy
 
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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I think there is a TSB on it.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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'99 Regular cab XL with rear slider here. I've had that danged leak for over a year now. I've tried fixing it before, but I think I'll just take it to a glass repair shop.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2008 | 07:31 PM
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I was going to post a link to my prior post w/photos of the fasteners and instructions but apparently the search feature is FUBAR. With my 900+ posts it can't find a single one! Sorry.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 06:18 AM
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namdorf, I believe you need to remove the inside rear window trim at which point you'll see the screws that hold the outside trim on. Once the nuts are removed the outside trim should just pull off. Be sure you get some butyl to reseal it when you put it back on.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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Well, I finally got it to work. take a look at this post.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ar-window.html
 
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 05:29 PM
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see the photos in the link above. dont remove the plastic outer trim, just the window bolts, you can get the butyl seal strip at Auto Zone or others- not hard to fix.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by steve(ill)
see the photos in the link above. dont remove the plastic outer trim, just the window bolts, you can get the butyl seal strip at Auto Zone or others- not hard to fix.
X2, it took me longer to take out the headliner/interior parts than it did to take out the window and put it back in.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 07:34 PM
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My sad story....... I had ALL of the interior out of mine, cleaning it and installing the "new" seats/carpet and replacing the headliner


.................................................. ........................................



now mine just started leaking




At least I'm experienced at removing everything! If I can find a solid glass it'll go in to replace my slider.

My OASIS report says it was repaired twice under warranty for a leaking back glass, even replaced the headliner once.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 05:37 PM
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I had the same prob 3yrs ago in my 02 F150. For those of you who want an easy cheap way to fix the prob...buy a tube of black rtv caulk. Go all around the gap that is between window and plastic molding, thats prob a 1/4 to 1/2 inch space....filling it NICELY AND SMOOTHLY, as well as around the 3rd break light. There have been forums on here in the past where guys have done the same...been dry since the day I fixed it. Obviously not fixing the "exact" problem...but its cheap, easy, and no more wet back window or seat!!!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 05:57 PM
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i did the black silicone caulk and it lasted about a year. i then pulled the window an dput the new seal in. during disassembly, you can see this is not made like the old 1970-80 cars or trucks. Sealing the trim with caulk is not a real good fix, its like throwing a tarp over the roof. Its close, but still lots of room for the water to get around the edges and corners once you see how it is designed.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 07:08 PM
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If I were going to try "caulk" I'd use 3M Window Weld instead. It has MUCH better wetting and adhesion qualities than any RTV or caulk I've ever seen.
Warning:
Wear surgical gloves, have rags handy, it's sticky and tar-like. Blue painters tape (NOT "masking take, which is worthless) is what to use for masking and holding stuff in place during cure.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 08:11 PM
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Had a glass guy come a do my window when it mysteriously blew out. All I did was pull all of my crap out of the back. The guy came and went within an hour used butyl and never removed that molding.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 09:08 PM
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Like others said, there's no reason to remove the molding. I fixed mine a few months ago. I used 3/8" 3M butyl sealant in a 15'(I think?) roll from Advance auto. I also used the link NCRanchero gave for reference. No leaks for about 4 months now.
 
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