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Hello guys,
Friday my hub on the drivers side started making noise, a grinding noise, almost like im dragging something. I have the Auto Locking hubs, before you all get in a rant that i should change to MANAL hubs, DONT, IM NOT SWITCHING!
Any who, it comes and goes and i cant figure out why. When im in 4X4 it DOES lock and will put power to that wheel, i know this because it was spinning in the snow today.
The noise seems to happen when im moving foward, not when backward, or it doesnt seem so. Does this mean I need to replace the hub? could it be the U joint in the front there?
When 4X4 is disengaged the steering is NOT affected, still turns fine with no binding or grabbing.. any suggestions?
Lol, Nextras you know all the guys are going to give you hell about switching, me being one of them
If you're hell bent on staying with autos, then yes it sounds like your hub is shot and you'll have to replace it ($$$). In 2wd your u-joint would not be making the noise since your front drivetrain is not moving (unless your hub is grabbing and making it spin, in which case BAD HUB!!!)
This is the reason I hate those autos, because theres no way to tell WHAT the hell they're doing. But it sounds like the lockout mechanism is starting to give way, and is grabbing the spindle when it's not supposed to. The idea behind the auto hubs is that the hub will lock the wheel to the axle shafts as soon as the axle shafts start to spin (via you activating the 4wd in the transfer case). As soon as that front drivetrain stops spinning (either putting it in 2wd or coming to a complete stop), the auto hubs will try to disengage. If they are doing ANY OTHER ACTIONS when you are not messing with the 4wd switch/lever, you can bet they're shot. Good luck brother.
My suggestion is the same... switch to manuals! The auto hubs are very expensive to replace. Junkyard isn't a very good option because they are so prone to failure.
Ok, so how much is it to switch to manuals PER WHEEL? and how easy/hard is it? cause ive replaced one hub already, came from the junkyard and no problems.. if i can just replace one side with an auto, it will be cheaper then doing both wheels to manual
It's about $50 per wheel if you buy the hubs new. I dunno what they are from a junkyard. The catch it that you can't buy new manuals individually. Only as a pair.
It's about $50 per wheel if you buy the hubs new. I dunno what they are from a junkyard. The catch it that you can't buy new manuals individually. Only as a pair.
Ok, not bad, but how much work is it?
and y do so many people hate the auto hubs? there very handy when they work, this is the first issue with it ever
Yeah just make sure that you also get the conversion kit. I wanna say it's about $40-50, and the hubs should run you up about $70-100 for the set, depending on what you get.
It's not a lot of work at all. It's an hour's worth of work, tops. And you may or may not need the conversion kit. How many screws are holding the auto hub cap on?
Everybody hates the auto hubs because they are very prone to fail, and of course they fail when you use them, when you need 4WD. It's also impossible to tell what state they are in.
You also have an added benefit - the ability to have 2lo, which is useful at times.
The swap couldn't be easier. It was the first job I did on my truck. Shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes per wheel.
Nobody likes the auto hubs because they are unpredictable, you can never be ABSOLUTELY sure if they're locked in or not. Not to mention these older non-vac lock style auto's are pretty delicate. If you rock the truck forward to back by accident (like on a steep hill) you can toast them in a matter of seconds. Ask me how I know... CUZ IT HAPPENED TO ME!!
No you cannot have auto hubs locked when in 2wd, impossible.
And what Andy means is, you can put the drivetrain in 4lo, reducing your gear ratio for more torque, while leaving your front hubs UNLOCKED so the power is only being distributed to the rear wheels. No possible with autos, as soon as you put it in 4 (hi or lo) and the front drivetrain spins up, the hubs lock themselves.
No you cannot have auto hubs locked when in 2wd, impossible.
And what Andy means is, you can put the drivetrain in 4lo, reducing your gear ratio for more torque, while leaving your front hubs UNLOCKED so the power is only being distributed to the rear wheels. No possible with autos, as soon as you put it in 4 (hi or lo) and the front drivetrain spins up, the hubs lock themselves.
Ooo ok..
and yes you can have the hubs locked when in 2wd. You put it in 4wd to lock the hubs then take it out of 4wd and continue in the direction you were going, hubs are locked ut they are not being driven by the engine. The hubs only unlock when you have 4wd disengagued and go the opposite direction you were going for 10-20 feet
and yes you can have the hubs locked when in 2wd. You put it in 4wd to lock the hubs then take it out of 4wd and continue in the direction you were going, hubs are locked ut they are not being driven by the engine. The hubs only unlock when you have 4wd disengagued and go the opposite direction you were going for 10-20 feet
Ehh I suppose so... But that's not reliable and its totally useless, lol.
Ehh I suppose so... But that's not reliable and its totally useless, lol.
Its actually pretty useful, if you go form snowy roads to the highway u just take the tranfer out of 4WD and carry on the highway with the hubs locked, when you take an exit and its snowy again you just put the transfer into 4WD again.. nothing you cant do with manuals except you dont have to get out of the truck to lock them the first time.
Actually good example as to why i like autos, when your messing with your truck in the snow and have it in 2wd doin donuts and drifting, when you go into a snow mound and need 4wd, its nice not having to get out, dig out the front whels and locking the hubs. id rather just pull the transfer into 4wd =D so much easier