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4WD Hub question

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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 07:02 PM
  #91  
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Dan my rotor/inner wheel bearing on the passenger side were well-seized on my spindle when I did my brake job and my spindle was not damaged... Not saying you're wrong, but perhaps his spindle is still in good shape, don't want to jump to any conclusions here. Anything is possible.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 07:19 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Skandocious
Dan my rotor/inner wheel bearing on the passenger side were well-seized on my spindle when I did my brake job and my spindle was not damaged... Not saying you're wrong, but perhaps his spindle is still in good shape, don't want to jump to any conclusions here. Anything is possible.
Hi Chris,

No not at all, I could be wrong and hope I am. Trying to give NeXtras an idea what he may have going on and why it won’t come off like it should.

I’ve have seen it happen to a couple of trucks, one of them was mine. I had to replace the spindle, hub and rotor on it that time.

There could be one or two differences, yours was probably just stuck in place from being on it for a very long time without being taken apart. Or the guy before you hit directly on the spindle with a hammer to get it off at one time.

Once you did get it off did it look like it had spun any, any hammer blow marks on it?

It doesn't take much for it spin and get hot enough to weld itself in place. And as you know, the race is a tight fit and is not supposed to spin on the spindle.

No one can say for sure until he gets it off what will be good and what won't. No way any of us can tell that from one picture.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 07:30 PM
  #93  
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Well i know it isnt spinning on the spindle cause the rotor spins freely... if the inner race was spinning it would have come off already or would have spun off while driving, which thankfully didnt happen... There was no guy befor me except my dad and grandfather which is everyone working on it now.. so no hammer blows.. Teeth on spindle look good too which gets some weight off my shoulder, i though the hub froze up and was grinding them off
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 07:46 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by NeXtras
Well i know it isnt spinning on the spindle cause the rotor spins freely... if the inner race was spinning it would have come off already or would have spun off while driving, which thankfully didnt happen... There was no guy befor me except my dad and grandfather which is everyone working on it now.. so no hammer blows.. Teeth on spindle look good too which gets some weight off my shoulder, i though the hub froze up and was grinding them off
No that was a resopnce to Chris.

Point is is the bearing is shot anyway and is the only thing holding the hub on, split it, cut it, do whatever you have to do to it to break the raceway and you'll have it off.
Try not to damage the spindle or hub in the hope you can reuse them both.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 09:21 PM
  #95  
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Talking

Nextras, I have the auto-locking hubs and I don't blame you for wanting to keep them. Just what I want to do....get out of the truck in the cold and snow or rain or whatever and walk around to both sides of the truck to turn 2 little dials. Anyway, I had a 'grinding' noise such as you described with my auto hubs. I replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings and inner seal (costs $26 because it's a 2-part seal) and then checked the front differential to make sure it was full of oil so the axle bearing could get oil. Had no problems since. The manual locking hubs are optional equipment and are heavy- duty or severe service. Auto hubs are standard equipment, but everyone I know complains about having to get out of the truck in bad weather to do the lock thing. Besides, I'm not going to do anything that heavy duty anyway. Are you?

Major Magnetic
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 09:35 PM
  #96  
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You only have to get out to lock one of them during inclimate weather. The girlfriend/fiance/wife gets the other one.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 09:40 PM
  #97  
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Ha Ha...good reply...can you get her to get both of them while she's out? Have a Merry Christmas!!
Major Magnetic
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 09:42 PM
  #98  
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I try, but I dont want to push it being the holidays and all.

BTW, welcome to FTE Major Magnetic!
 
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 09:48 PM
  #99  
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Yeah,ok, I see your point. The holidays will be over soon. But does she come out and do it for ya if you give her a call when she's not in the truck?

Major Magnetic....and Thanx for the Welcome!
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 01:18 PM
  #100  
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My reasoning for replacing the auto is cause i dont know what actually caused the bearing to become shgt, not something that just all of a sudden "happens" so to play it safe im going to put on the manuals.

The good thing about the manuals, you know what position there in locked or unlocked cause YOU put it there where as with the autos you dont know. I do believe the manuals are standard equiped, if the manuals are for heavyier duty ,my truck should be equiped with them as i have the quad shocks and towing package, essentially set up to be a plow therefore should have manuals..


NOW, my next question is related to spindles.. i got the rotor off and the inner race, gouged up the spindle pretty good and in the process of filing it down. With the picture below, can i just take those 5 bolts out and take the spindle out? Would make it MUCH easier to file it down so i can take it inside to do it.

 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 01:35 PM
  #101  
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Yes that's how you remove the spindle... Although they can be a real bear, it's gonna take a little elbow grease
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 01:54 PM
  #102  
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From the looks of it, you need a new spindle anyway. Yes, you take the 5 bolts off, then the fun begins. There are a couple different ways to get it off. Air chisel, slide hammer with a spindle attachment, or a gear puller. The gear puller is the easiest way to go about it and you only need a cheap puller from a parts store.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 02:41 PM
  #103  
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Used an air socket to get the bolts off and used a hammer and chissel with some penetrating oil to take the spindle off, now that we have that off were going to buy a spindle, which i believe i need to buy from Ford, local pepboys doesnt carry them.

I have to say, other than putting an axel bearing seal in on the rear, this is the most involded repair ive done so far.. jeez what an expierience though. Something to brag about when im done =D Tomorow is realy the only day im going to be able to go to the dealer, so hopefully they will be open...

Funny thing with the gear puller, we used one to pull the rotor off, used a 1/8 in piece of steel to cover up the hole in the special socket, puched a hole straight through it, pretty much dum luck that all the pins in the bearing fell out and the rotor could be pulled off. Looks like i may need a new rotor, i think it heated up alot and welded the outer race to the rotor..
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 03:00 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by joshdvirnak
I thought everyone made it pretty clear that its about a 15 minute job/30 if you need to convert.

Its cake.
Reading through the thread again and i couldnt help but laugh when i re-read this..

The "cake" swap ended out not to be so, well.. "cake".. maybe a brownie, but not cake =P

Suks when you go to do this and you find out *$h1t* bearing SHOTTT
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 04:20 PM
  #105  
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Ah yes I see you got it off, you may be able to save it with some file work but I'm glad to see you decided to replace it instead.

But why not just buy a good used one instead of paying top dollar for one at the dealer?

The truck that did the same thing to me had manual hubs on it and they where unlocked at the time.

I had hand packed the wheel bearings on it myself and the wheel bearing still failed, just goes to show ya these things happen even with regular preventive maintenance.

While you have that spindle off you may want to replace that axle's u-joint while you have it apart, unless its like new.
The u-joint is cheap, as you can see getting to it is the hard part!
 

Last edited by danr1; Dec 23, 2007 at 04:22 PM.
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