When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
But why not just buy a good used one instead of paying top dollar for one at the dealer?
Same reason i didnt get a used Auto hub, junkyard will be frozen over. Plus, with that kind of part, id rather just get a new one and know it will be fine rather than risk it with a used one not knowing what its been through
<i>Looks like i may need a new rotor, i think it heated up alot and welded the outer race to the rotor..</i>
The outer race would normally be hard to knock out, its a press fit.
But if you find you do need a new hub and your rotor is still in good shape knock the studs out and you can separate the two from each other.
And to think I thought the rear axel bearing seal was hard.. thats "cake" compared to this so far, didnt help i drove about 50 miles thinking it was just the hub doing this.
I'll keep you guys updated though. FrankenFord check your Private Messages please!
If i dont make it on here, Happy Holidays to everyone!!
Nextras, Danr1 is right...you should replace whatever parts you can while you have it apart, especially if you plan on keeping the truck. Also, you might want to check the brake caliper to make sure it wasn't sticking. I've heard of the caliper sticking and generating enough heat to make the wheel bearings go bad then you've got a dandy mess, like you've got. Good Luck, there's a lot of work involved there.
MM
hey sorry bout not coming on and reading this sooner.he is right, the junkyards up here are frozen. the only parts you can really get to is the interior and the engine. unless you want to pay more money for them to take the part off. i do suggest replacing the u joint IF there is play in it.move the axle around and if it feels like it moves freely and the joint itself doesn't move side to side or up and down then it is fine. if it has a grease fitting on it thought, now would be a good time to grease it, along with the front end too.
Hello guys,
Merry christmas and happy new year.
I still havent gotten my spindle but i'm wating to see if i will get it today. Thats all im waiting for right now.
I noticed a few of you pointing out that with manual hubs you get 2LO... you do know thats about the WORST thing you can do. Egauge the transfer case without locking the front end. The front axels will be spinnging when they shouldnt and they will be spinning in opposite directions cause theres no friction (assuming you have open differentials)
...and if you leave your manual hubs locked in, and t-case in 2 hi you can do the same thing. When you need 4WD just pull the T-case into 4 and away you go.
I noticed a few of you pointing out that with manual hubs you get 2LO... you do know thats about the WORST thing you can do. Egauge the transfer case without locking the front end. The front axels will be spinnging when they shouldnt and they will be spinning in opposite directions cause theres no friction (assuming you have open differentials)
I don't mean to be argumentative, but you don't have any idea what you're talking about.
It won't ever damage a thing, and the axles won't spin in opposite directions. Even if they did, it still wouldn't damage anything.
In fact, it's a GOOD thing to engage the 4wd without having the hubs locked in periodically. It moves the whole front driveline and helps prevent it from getting frozen up due to lack of use. It also helps the transfer case shift lever from getting frozen up, which is a fairly common problem on here.
This is something that you can't do with auto hubs, and it should be done once a month or so on 4wd vehicles.
I don't mean to be argumentative, but you don't have any idea what you're talking about.
It won't ever damage a thing, and the axles won't spin in opposite directions. Even if they did, it still wouldn't damage anything.
In fact, it's a GOOD thing to engage the 4wd without having the hubs locked in periodically. It moves the whole front driveline and helps prevent it from getting frozen up due to lack of use. It also helps the transfer case shift lever from getting frozen up, which is a fairly common problem on here.
This is something that you can't do with auto hubs, and it should be done once a month or so on 4wd vehicles.
Yet another advantage of manual hubs.
Andy's 100% right. There's no way you're causing any damage to your drivetrain through use of the transfer case with the hubs unlocked. If you'd mind explaining your theory and where that damage would occur, then we'd be glad to explain why that isn't the case.
As for the axle shafts spinning backwards... Ehhh, huh? Given the basic design of the differential it would be impossible for both your axle shafts to spin backwards with the driveshaft spinning in the forward direction. Sorry, that ain't gonna happen.
I don't mean to be argumentative, but you don't have any idea what you're talking about.
It won't ever damage a thing, and the axles won't spin in opposite directions. Even if they did, it still wouldn't damage anything.
In fact, it's a GOOD thing to engage the 4wd without having the hubs locked in periodically. It moves the whole front driveline and helps prevent it from getting frozen up due to lack of use. It also helps the transfer case shift lever from getting frozen up, which is a fairly common problem on here.
This is something that you can't do with auto hubs, and it should be done once a month or so on 4wd vehicles.
Yet another advantage of manual hubs.
Other way around, lock the hubs once a month for 30 miles or so, the transfer case doesn’t need to be engaged. However the shifter should be moved throughout its full range of motion once a month also.
While the new style manual lockouts are better then the old ones they are not made to have power put to them in a unlocked state. Without being “locked” with power put to them the only thing controlling the end of the shaft within the hub is the cage/carrier holding the inner gear, and the needle bearings.
While turning and/or if the u-joint just inside the steering knuckle is a little stiff or froze up it can and will destroy that carrier when forcing the end of the drive shaft in a off center circle. When the hub is locked the outer gear is moved around the inner gear and the two of them control the end of the drive shaft within the hubs center line together.
It can be, and is also kinda hard on the inner spindle needle bearing when the shaft is allowed to spin inside the hub in an uncontrolled manor when the hub is not locked. (more so if/after the carrier fails)
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.