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Fuel mod help!!

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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 10:21 PM
  #31  
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Tenn01PSD350
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Originally Posted by countrycar
aklim, sorry to hear about your fuel hose problems. But yeah I agree it's important to go with a tried and true system somtimes. Me, I have to mess with things. But thats just me. Tim the Tool Man Taylor is my hero. HAH HAH HAH. And yeah I buy tools also that I have never used and may never use & Some I don't even know how to use! But agian thats just me.
No, it is not just you. I have built my own fuel system. It is working very well, and has a lot of other benefits I will not bore everyone with except to say that your idle fuel pressure gauge, if you choose to go with one of those under hood, ought to be connected to the end of the fuel rail lines.

While the reason may seem obvious, I will point out the obvious by noting that it is from there that you will see the lowest pressure because it is beyond the last injector and that is the worst pressure any injector will see. Most RRs are of this design.

Many people like to tap into the fuel filter bowl for underhood pressure. That does not tell you what is happening at the dead ends of both heads as the injectors empty and fill. I don't know if there is a big difference in the two, but I choose to sample what is left at the end.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2007 | 10:24 PM
  #32  
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I do need to look at the shim thing. I'm pretty ignorant on how it works. I'm guessing it's to force the FPR to provide more pressure, but I haven't done any reading on how it's done. I still have yet to do my in-tank mods, but it will be soon. Will I benefit from shimming the FPR?? I need to get in there anyway and replace a couple of the rubber deals on the fuel lines. When I installed your kit, they looked a little rough and I now have a slight fuel leak where the line feeds the filter bowl.

Joe
It is pretty simple really, there is a poppet valve with a spring inside it. The shim spaces the spring to hold a bit more pressure on the poppet. I was amazed to see how wildly the OEM pressure fluctuated from the factory. I have seen everything from 55psi up to 90 psi on bone stock rides. That was one of the big reasons I went to a pressure switch setup on my WVO systems, but that is another story.

Also the Ford part number for the Vibra lok replacment kit to replace all the o-rings on the OEM lines is F81Z-9C387-BA. Should go for about $13. Or I can drop a 5/16 replacment in the mail to ya for just the return one.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2007 | 05:34 AM
  #33  
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Thanks Jason!! I'll fiddle with it when I get some more time. I do need to get those O rings done, but I have a source here. It's just bad enough to be a nuisance -- not critical yet. I appreciate the offer, though!!

Joe
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 01:55 AM
  #34  
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I just saw on ebay a ( Billet Fuel Pump speed controller) Kinda neat. Alittle pricey but this would really extend the life of our pumps. I like it! What you think? Country http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aerom...QQcmdZViewItem
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 07:16 AM
  #35  
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Wouldn't you rather have the pump move at one speed instead of going up and down and up and down all day long?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 09:35 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by aklim
Wouldn't you rather have the pump move at one speed instead of going up and down and up and down all day long?
Yes, they are either on or off by design.
Jason that pressure switch setup doesn't "duty cycle" the pump does it?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 10:57 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Yes, they are either on or off by design.
Jason that pressure switch setup doesn't "duty cycle" the pump does it?
Sounds like a duty cycle to me. What about you?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:03 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Yes, they are either on or off by design.
Jason that pressure switch setup doesn't "duty cycle" the pump does it?
Yes and no, it will cycle the pump a couple times between startup and shutdown when the WVO system is active, but it does not constantly cycle the pump. The pressure switch is isolated from diesel pressure, so it does sit there and come on, build pressure, shut off, drop pressure, come on-build pressure, shut off-drop pressure in an endless loop.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:24 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by aklim
Wouldn't you rather have the pump move at one speed instead of going up and down and up and down all day long?
I don't know. Is there an advantage to this thing or not? In theory it sounds great. It offers flexibility. Especially if you drive your rigg everyday and then to the Track on the weekends. Kwikk, Tenn,what do Yah think? Or is it jsut a waste of money? Country
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:49 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by countrycar
I don't know. Is there an advantage to this thing or not? In theory it sounds great. It offers flexibility. Especially if you drive your rigg everyday and then to the Track on the weekends. Kwikk, Tenn,what do Yah think? Or is it jsut a waste of money? Country
That aeromotive item appears to be designed for a gasser. I think we need to have a steady 57-67 psi and make our supply bigger through oil or injectors. JMO
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 11:58 AM
  #41  
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Just curious as to what other folk are thinking. I wouldn't buy one personaly. Alittle to costly in my opinion. It would be nice to put it to the test though. How about, you buy one, try it out, and let me know if its worth it or not? HAH HAH HAH Just kidding. Thanks. Take Care now. Country
 
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 02:09 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by countrycar
I don't know. Is there an advantage to this thing or not? In theory it sounds great. It offers flexibility. Especially if you drive your rigg everyday and then to the Track on the weekends. Kwikk, Tenn,what do Yah think? Or is it jsut a waste of money? Country
IMO, no. You are making it accelerate, decelerate, all day long. Which is easer on the car? Highway or city driving? Yes it offers flexibility. At what price? Longevity of the fuel pump? No thanx.
 
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