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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 09:56 AM
  #1  
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input on reg fuel sys

I have DFA's CCK kit. basicly it just ties the fuel rails together and installs a metered orfice in the return line. been thinking about a"real" regulated return system. I could get DFA's upgrade kit w,adjustable regulator, or pony up for IPDs or DIs complete system. My question to all is--- will I see a vast improvement with a complete system vs DFAs system?
DFA retains the stock fuel lines everyone else replaces them.
Opinions wanted.

future wants--stage1s and bigger turbo/intercooloer

Barney
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 10:04 AM
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I can't speak for DFA (Dino fuel Alternative), but I heard they have a nice setup..

I run the complete regulated return from Dennis @ ITP. I think it was the best think I did for my truck. It's quieter for sure.

I also did the fuel bowl delete, just because my bowl always had leaks and it sure cleans it up under the hood. Its nice to adjust fuel pressure too!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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I'm running 235cc hybrids on the DFA system. If you're going stage 1s, you won't see a difference spending an extra $500...
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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The full on regulated return is great, IMO.
It's the way that Ford should have designed it in the first place.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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Thanks guys,
Joe, glad to hear the DFA setup will work with the bigger sticks
Dan, I agree the Better regulated setup should have been that way from the start
Just wanted to know if the DFA would keep up the pressure on those long uphill pulls. thats what I'm looking for, max fuel pressure at close to WOT climbing a 4 mile grade.

Barney
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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I can't help you with that -- nothing like a 4 mile grade in TX... LOL But it works in my application.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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Joe - give it a month and then you're welcome to come to CO and ride on a 6% grade for 7 miles+... I'll let you borrow my 26' trailer just for giggles, but you better check your brakes first.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 11:26 AM
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try and pull the grade out of Skagway AK. 11% for 11 miles! now get stuck behind a tour bus that wants to stop(in the middle of the road)every mile or so, I thought my wife was going to walk up and jerk the bus driver out of the bus and show him how to drive!!!

Barney
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by papadelogan
Joe - give it a month and then you're welcome to come to CO and ride on a 6% grade for 7 miles+... I'll let you borrow my 26' trailer just for giggles, but you better check your brakes first.
Brakes are good -- I put cryo'ed PowerSlots & Hawk pads on a few months ago...

I didn't feel comfortable upping the power that much without better stopping power to go with it...
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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I would say go with DI's RR if he's got a sale going.. I think $450 is a rip off for an RR.. You can build ur own for less with push-loks..

I'm waiting for another $350 RR sale to go on and I'm jumping all over it. I think getting more air outta the mix and upping the FP will make a huge difference
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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Barrney it has been a good upgrade for me.This year I am looking at a bigger turbo and sticks also.To me I have more mid-range power.

I have yet to tow with it,but I can feel and hear the diff.The kid at DQ doesn't ask me to shut my truck off at the drive thru when I oredr anymore,lol.

If you do a DIY kit let me know and I'll help as much as I can.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bfife
Thanks guys,
Joe, glad to hear the DFA setup will work with the bigger sticks
Dan, I agree the Better regulated setup should have been that way from the start
Just wanted to know if the DFA would keep up the pressure on those long uphill pulls. thats what I'm looking for, max fuel pressure at close to WOT climbing a 4 mile grade.

Barney
I don't think there will be any difference between the two systems if that is really the issue that you want to deal with.
What you want to make sure of to keep up fuel pressure at WOT is make sure the fuel volume being supplied to the engine is adequite.
That means no clogged fuel pickups or fuel screens inside the intake of the pump, etc.
The best DFA in the world won't do you a bit of good if the fuel pump is supplying 30 gph at WOT but your engine needs 31.
Fuel pressure will drop off, no matter what system is installed on the engine.
Remember the old Holley double pumper? Twin fuel bowls with twin fuel supply lines.
There was a reason for that.
A built V8 would suck down the gas faster than it could be supplied via just one float valve and it would lean out at WOT.
Same principle with our diesels.
Fuel volume.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 04:31 AM
  #13  
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Dan, agreed Volume is key. I need to check the screen in the pump inlet. thought I might also pull the little check valves in the lines at the heads and clean those screens too. its just been to blessed COLD here to feel like doing much outside.
Barney
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 04:50 AM
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All of the check valves and restrictors are removed with a RR kit. This will allow you to run your fuel pressure up to 65-75 psi, compared to the stock 53 psi. it also replaces the 1/4 inch feed lines to 3/8...the regulator in the DI or the ITP kit has a boost refrence port..when set up right it will raise fuel PSI with boost PSI...
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 07:31 AM
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I had Jason at DFA send me replacement adapters to get rid of the orifice ones. I don't think you need to truthfully worry about the lines until you get to 500+. IIRC, somebody was making 550 on the STOCK fuel system. Just my $0.02.......
 
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