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Mr Bob- Thanks for even considering our CCK. I just want to clarify that it does not do anything to increase the volume of fuel to the injectors, but evenly distributes the pressure evenly to ALL injectors no longer starving #8, and allows for any trapped air to bleed out. Most of the time people raise the fuel pressure without knowing why they raise the fuel pressure. That reason is to try to overcome the starvation of #8 due to poor OEM fuel system design. By installing either the CCK or the Regulated Return that issue is fixed. For ultimate High Performance a Regulated Return is the way to go. But for what it's worth, I Just Dyno'd 457hp at the tires using a setup very closely mimicking my CCK, but of course with a larger fuel pump. And my fuel pressure never budged monitored after the fuel rails.
Remember, you do get what you pay for, but often times people buy way more than they need. More isn't always better, the right part for your application is better. If you get a RR, I highly recomend Dennis at ITP, he is a great guy, and the RR is his bread and butter product. My CCK is less expensive, but not neccesarily lower in quality, just a lot fewer parts, and works very well for Stock to mildly modified trucks-Meaning around 350hp or less.
Unless you have the tools to actually build it from scratch, which would be nice. But who has the eqiupment much less afford it.
Is it cheaper to build or buy? I haven't built mine yet, but everyone here that has put one together has followed some sort of guide line to build and assemble it. Unless you are Pop, Gene, or Kwikk. I could of dropped my truck off at a Diesel Tech shop, give'm $25,000 and said build it. And drive it home done. But whats the Point. I enjoy working on my Truck like most of us here do.
Most of us don't have the tools. I can't afford it because it doesn't make sense. You buy one tool and use it once in your life. Now what? I only buy tools that I have many uses for and will use it more than a few times to justify the cost and storage, etc, etc. Of course, that special tool will never be around when you need it. Story of my life.
I don't mind building. I just don't want to reinvent the wheel. I didn't like the DI fuel regulator as much and have my own Aeroquip. However, I followd the design of their bracket and made my own. Now, fuel, I am skittish on. When I do fuel, I want the lines to be good. I don't want fuel spraying everywhere from a hose that wasn't all it should be. Ask me how I know. I had to clean the fire extinguisher stuff off the hot engine one time because somebody thought they would be able to do their own fuel line setup.
My CCK is less expensive, but not neccesarily lower in quality, just a lot fewer parts, and works very well for Stock to mildly modified trucks-Meaning around 350hp or less.
Didn't mean it that way. Your kit looks like it would be acceptable in quality. It's just that I have seen a few other "kits" that well, lets put it this way, you run them and I'll stay way behind you. My only thing about your kit is that the fuel pressure is not adjustable and he wanted to adjust it via the shimming. I would think your kit is fine for what it is unless you want to play around with fuel pressure. In which case, IMO, you are going to need a regulator and it now will be more complicated. I'd have gone with your kit but for 2 reasons.
1. I became familiar with it AFTER I bought my DI unit.
2. I wanted to be able to control fuel pressure for later applications.
Whether it is pushlok or already formed hoses, they work about the same. I have no problems with either.
I'll jump in here, i have Jasons(FN74) CCkit and a shimmed FPR, along with a FP guage to tell what it is doing. Jasons kit is of the highest quality and the install instructions are great. One day I will need adjustable pressure for bigger sticks, but at the price of said bigger sticks it will be a while.... in the mean time I currently have the same benefits from my shimmed FPR and CC-kit (except not as easily adjustable) as a regulated return. When I do go to bigger sticks then I will explore Jasons Fass system( as well as others) before I make that purchase. For me, right now, I am more than happy.
aklim, sorry to hear about your fuel hose problems. But yeah I agree it's important to go with a tried and true system somtimes. Me, I have to mess with things. But thats just me. Tim the Tool Man Taylor is my hero. HAH HAH HAH. And yeah I buy tools also that I have never used and may never use & Some I don't even know how to use! But agian thats just me. I do run stage 3 Hydbrid 530's ,GT-BB /Turbo, and DI chip though. So I'm in the planning proceess of putting together, Fuel,OIL & IC to complete my mods. Complete? HAH! My wife wishes. I can't even believe I just used that word in a sentence. Thanks to all of you for the ideas and suggestions. Much appreciated. Country
check out diesel performance specialist they have a complete tank to heads system plus kits that replace only parts of the fuel system also the systems look factory http://www.dps-performance.com/
This is a great system. And for the price it would be hard to beat. Even if yah build your own. I did'n't see any specs on the pump and filter though. I'll have to look alittle further for this. Thanks JustBlowin'smoke.. Country
I also have the CCK -- but here's a question: Couldn't you just put a regulator where the orifice is now? Or is there more done around the fuel bowl on the full RR system?
Didn't mean it that way. Your kit looks like it would be acceptable in quality
No Offense taken. . Just wanted to point out that less money doesn't ALWAYS=less quality. The irony here is that while on the fuel mod stuff I have one of the least expensive no frills items out, on the WVO side I sell one of the Most expensive fuel systems you can buy. And that would be the ULTIMATE in a performance fuel system, however not many are willing to shell out 3,500 for a fuel system only mod.......
Originally Posted by Izzy351
I also have the CCK -- but here's a question: Couldn't you just put a regulator where the orifice is now? Or is there more done around the fuel bowl on the full RR system?
Joe
Yep you could, and pretty easily at that. However it still won't increase fuel flow potential beyond that of the OEM system. What I don't get is why everyone is so bent on having adjustable fuel pressure for?? . The factory spec calls for 51 plus or minus 4 psi. This is not like traditional fuel injection where pressure plays a critical role in fuel delivery. So long as the injectors receive their minimum required pressure, then life is good. That means that whether you have 55 psi, or 105 psi, the quantity of fuel injected doesn't change. If you can't maintain a preset pressure, that is not the fault of the regulator, there is a supply issue.
However pressure does help overcome restrictions in the system which is why it is common to shim the OEM FPR, to help with the #8 starvation due to rather small fuel passages in the head and a poor design of plumbing.
All we need is to be able to set an adequate pressure once, and be done with it. There is no need, nor does it do any good to be able to adjust fuel pressures.
Of course there are exceptions to every rule, and if you happen to have a 600hp psd, then there may be more substance to pressure. However at that point any discussion of OEM anything is pretty well mute.
This is a great system. And for the price it would be hard to beat. Even if yah build your own. I did'n't see any specs on the pump and filter though. I'll have to look alittle further for this. Thanks JustBlowin'smoke.. Country
thats the kit i'm going to buy maybe even this week i'll have to look at the money situation and decide
Jason,
Yeah, I'm with you -- I was just wondering if it was as simple of an implementation as I thought it would be. I have no reason to at this point, as I don't have plans for big injectors. I would think the HPOP issue would be more important than how much pressure you have flowing through the rails on most of our mildly mod'ed trucks.
I do need to look at the shim thing. I'm pretty ignorant on how it works. I'm guessing it's to force the FPR to provide more pressure, but I haven't done any reading on how it's done. I still have yet to do my in-tank mods, but it will be soon. Will I benefit from shimming the FPR?? I need to get in there anyway and replace a couple of the rubber deals on the fuel lines. When I installed your kit, they looked a little rough and I now have a slight fuel leak where the line feeds the filter bowl.
The factory spec calls for 51 plus or minus 4 psi. This is not like traditional fuel injection where pressure plays a critical role in fuel delivery. So long as the injectors receive their minimum required pressure, then life is good. That means that whether you have 55 psi, or 105 psi, the quantity of fuel injected doesn't change. If you can't maintain a preset pressure, that is not the fault of the regulator, there is a supply issue.
I thought someone said International spec is calling for 65-70 psi? IIRC, ITP recommends starting at 65 psi
I thought someone said International spec is calling for 65-70 psi? IIRC, ITP recommends starting at 65 psi
Yeah, I have read that too, but I have never seen any documentation on it. I hate spouting about stuff that I heard from my uncle's grandpas second cousin on his mother's side said once if I can't back it up with proof or personal experiance.
I would second that 65 is a good pressure, and regardless of what spec is, most of the trucks I have ever worked on are already 60-65 from the factory. I guess what I was trying to say earlier is that if you already have 60psi fuel pressure, and you have fixed the plumbing issues(pick your poison), bumping up the pressure to 65, or even 75 isn't going to net you any return.