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If all I wanted to do was to solve the #8 injector issue, and solve any trap air in the fuel rail, should I install a Regulated Return (RR) or a Cross Connect Kit (CCK)?
Truck is stock. 2000 7.3L.
I'd rather go with CCK because it cost a lot less than RR.
I'm doing the in tank fuel mod tomorrow morning. To help with air getting in. Ford Flaw.
Then your questions will be the same questions i will be facing for my next project. Which to go with?
I'm doing the in tank fuel mod tomorrow morning. To help with air getting in. Ford Flaw.
Then your questions will be the same questions i will be facing for my next project. Which to go with?
I did the intank and my own version of a cross connect fuel line. Engine is much smoother. I also vote for the harpoon mod makes filling up alot faster.
The CCK is a "poor mans" RR. The RR has an adjustable regulator, where the CCK has a fixed orifice. You can still adjust pressure by shimming the FPR though. For me, the CCK is perfect. You defintely want to do the in-tanks as already mentioned. I did the CCK first which helped some, but until you get the bubbles out of the stream in the first place, it's not a big help. The aired up fuel in the return goes right into the mixing chamber which the pump sucks back up anyway. Even after the CCK, the in-tanks made a noticeable difference in mine. Also noticed a much smoother idle with the HPX. What I mean by that is that the engine doesn't seem to "jump around" as much at idle
The CCK is a "poor mans" RR. The RR has an adjustable regulator, where the CCK has a fixed orifice. You can still adjust pressure by shimming the FPR though. For me, the CCK is perfect. You defintely want to do the in-tanks as already mentioned. I did the CCK first which helped some, but until you get the bubbles out of the stream in the first place, it's not a big help. The aired up fuel in the return goes right into the mixing chamber which the pump sucks back up anyway. Even after the CCK, the in-tanks made a noticeable difference in mine. Also noticed a much smoother idle with the HPX. What I mean by that is that the engine doesn't seem to "jump around" as much at idle
I think all these are must-do mods...
good post Joe..i would like to add that the regulator alone is around
$250..and the reg return also transforms the stock 1/4 inch fuel feed lines to the heads to a 3/8 feed line and feeds them both to the front or back of the heads rather then cross corner ....
good post Joe..i would like to add that the regulator alone is around
$250..and the reg return also transforms the stock 1/4 inch fuel feed lines to the heads to a 3/8 feed line and feeds them both to the front or back of the heads rather then cross corner ....
Great point, Ron. When I build my own FASS system, I'll run new lines to the bowl and decide later if I want to delete the fuel bowl and go with larger lines to the heads. I'll have look into that if I end up with a fuel problem after going with the SS sticks. I'm not planning on going huge, so I think they'll be okay. We'll see!! I'm kind of a practical guy, so putting one in just to say I have a full RR isn't my style.
The pump in the tank eliminates the need for any air removal system - there is no air to remove.
What is it that the stock pump does in the tank that makes it suck up so much air. Why, what do I need to do to prevent it. What part number pumps can I get?
I didn't know there could be a pump in the tank. I reckon anything with an electrical current in a fuel tank would not be good.
Most gassers have fuel pumps in their tanks.
The stock formation of the fuel pump works on a vacum pulling fuel from the the tank rather than pushing it from the source. Therefore it sucks air into the fuel lines through the the crappy stock connections in the fuel line between the tank and pump. Migrating the pump to the tank elimates the need for fuel line mods to prevent air from entering.