My dual CCV system has been working great for 2+ years now, I have a back up CCV if one of the lines get clogged, so it has a fail safe built into it, you WILL know if one is not large enough or not flowing enough, you will start burning oil, and your seals will start leaking big time.

I tried several variations, including heater hose(was the wrong material and kinked), you will know quick if you have a system failure...

 

How did you measure it? What tools? Easy to do?

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...4&postcount=22

 

The following quote is from this thread on my recent mods https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/607571-recent-mods-cc-pressure-gauge-ccv-and-dp-tuner.html "This is a pic Click for full size image of the vented oil filler cap for measuring CC pressure that strokin made up for me and brought with him to Smokin. This is a pic Click for full size image of the gauge."

I used this setup to make CC pressure measurements on some trucks at Smokin, and I installed the gauge on my truck and made measurements with my OEM CCV when I towed from Smokin to Asheville to get my DP Tuner. While in Asheville, I did a CCV mod direct to the atmosphere, and made towing measurements of CC pressure on a number of 6% grades headed north to my current location in WV.

Note, don't try to drill a hole in a stock oil cap, you'll just ruin it. Strokin tried that first, and had to buy a 3rd party cap (can't remember where) that is solid plastic. This is a pic of my "improved" version of the oil cap Click for full size image . You can see the restrictor I added in the hose to reduce the flutter that occurs under heavy load. I think I'm seeing individual spikes of blow by from each cylinder under heavy load? Either that or something from the injectors or something else going on under the VC.

I decided to keep a CC pressure gauge as a permanent mod, so I installed the fitting in the oil filler tube as shown here Click for full size image , so I don't have to mess with it every time I remove the cap, and I just received a new gauge that reads 0" to 10" H2O for better resolution and accuracy. I used a 0" to 30" gauge first, because based on Guzzles reported measurements of 5" to 7.5" at idle I was expecting to see higher readings, like X4=20" to 30" at WOT under load. Turns out Guzzle misplaced his decimal point and his readings were only 0.5" to 0.75" at idle, so a good CCV mod shouldn't see more than 2" to 3" under full load.

I should get around to installing the new gauge next week, and after that I could lend you my old setup (oil cap and gauge, you'll have to furnish a length 1/4" OD hose) and you can make some measurements on your truck, and then ship it back to me in a few weeks, or I'll make you a good deal on the gauge if you want to keep it.

 

I've seen this picture before, and it reminds me of my old 1965 A/H Sprite race car where I tried a similar setup. Since Craven's time improved, it seemed to work on his MC, but a 0.1 sec time delta is far from proof positive that it actually vented better (or as good) as going directly to the atmosphere, because of the many variables (ambient temp conditions, etc...) between before and after runs at the strip.

The only reason I plumbed mine into the exhaust on my race car was because of a new rule that if a corner worker saw any oil venting from a CCV he could black flag you. I first tried a puke bottle to catch the blow by, but I set my engines up very loose with a missing compression ring and had a lot of blow by which was enough to blow the lid off my catch bottle, so I went to the exhaust setup.

Just looking at the picture, I don't see how a "vacuum" is created. I agree that the geometry shown is probably better than just welding a bung to the side of the tailpipe, but to create a true low pressure effect you need a Venturi like is shown here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect . Even in this pic, you see that the induced low pressure in the Venturi part of the tube is relative to the pressure in the wide open section of the tube. In the case of a tailpipe, the pressure in it is much higher than ambient, so that even if you inserted a "true Venturi" section in it, the pressure in the Venturi section might very well still be above ambient, but lower than elsewhere in the tailpipe.

Check out this pic Click for full size image , which is the view looking directly into my CCV coupler. This raised section creates a true Venturi effect that creates a substantial low pressure at the flow rates at high boost WOT. That's why Ford designed the CCV coupler with the scoop facing back toward the incoming air stream. This feature helps to limit the net vacuum applied to the CC at higher flow rates by scooping up some of the inlet air flow to counter balance the high vacuum from the Venturi at high flow.

I've measured as much as -7" H20 at full load on my stock CCV, and a guy over on Dieselstop went to the trouble to reverse his CCV so that the scoop pointed backwards, and the vacuum increased by about X3 to -20" H2O which is enough to suck all the oil from the engine.

My bottom line is that I'm very skeptical that any approach which plumbs the CCV into the exhaust will be better or even nearly as good as venting directly to the atmosphere. The two trucks I measured at Smokin had theirs going into the bottom of their stacks which is even worse due to the extra pressure there required to turn the flow and push the weight of the exhaust up and out of the stacks. Yes, I know hot air rises on its own, but not nearly fast enough to accommodate a 1,000 cfm flow! I would recommend that anyone with their CCV going to their exhaust should buy a gauge (or borrow mine), and measure their connection directly at the exhaust with their CCV hose disconnected, to see if they have pressure or a vacuum there. Then hook the CCV hose back up and use the oil cap to measure CC pressure.

 

So can you post your measurments of the OEM CCV vs. the straight vented to the atmoshpere version? I'm curious what the stock CCV system looked like on the gauge.

Joe

 

I've posted my measurements in several places as I made them, changed my configuration and made some more, etc... See post #70 & #94 here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/601503-report-from-smokin-5.html , and note my comment about the effect of the exhaust brake on CC pressure has now been determined to be a little of both, disrupting the air flow through the CCV coupler and slightly increasing the blow by, as I'm still seeing about a 0.25" effect even with the CCV vented to the atmosphere.

Here are measurements with my CCV mod https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/609000-towing-report-with-dp-tuner-ccv-mod-and-cc-pressure-gauge.html during my tow to my current location.

Bottom line summary is that with the stock CCV I saw as much as a -5" H2O vacuum, maybe as high as -7" H2O including the bounce in the gauge, and with the CCV mod I saw as much as +3" H2O with a couple of " +- bounce on that reading. I won't get a chance to tow again until the first week in July, but then I'll have my more accurate gauge with a restrictor to lessen the bounce, and I'll take readings towing some steep grades out west and report those.

 

This has had me laughing for 10 minutes now...The only thing is in the second set of photos i can't find the duct tape....HELP!

 

Thanks, Earnest. Now I'm thinking that with 5" of vacuum on the engine, will you possibly be sucking dirt/water/etc into it?? Makes me wonder if a slight positive pressure isn't all that bad. Just a thought...

 

Well, if you're not towing up a long grade or running down the drag strip there isn't much difference between the stock CCV, which runs a few tenths" H2O negative, and a CCV mod to the atmosphere, which runs a few tenths" H2O positive.

According to Racor you never want more than + or - 4" H2O = 0.15 psi, because this is enough pressure or vacuum to start distorting and flexing the oil pan or valve covers. I'm just guessing at this number, but say the pan has a surface area of about 100 in^2 which X 0.15 psi gives about 15 lbs of force pushing the pan out or sucking it in, and this is enough to distort the seal and start an oil leak.

I'm not sure where you mean dirt or water would be sucked in from, I guess you mean past the gaskets? But if this were to happen you've already compromised that seal and will probably have an oil leak, because hot oil is always splashing against all the gaskets when the engine is running.