Pete, your killin me!

 

Chris why not just pull the VC and plumb it there? Leave your cap alone so it isn't a PITA to change the oil

 

If anyone want's to do it this way, I've got a doghouse they can have that can be installed in the passenger side VC. When I did my CCV mod I got a new one because I thought mine might be too gummed up to reuse, but it turned out it looked as good as the new one. If anyone wants it just PM your shipping info, and I'll send it out UPS ground.

The pic below is my hose fitting to my CC pressure gauge, but Jody's CCV looked just like this except he used a 5/8" fitting for heater hose and it faced back toward the firewall.

 

Here's my thoughts, Gene, AKA Ernest has a valid point about the CCV being vented into the exhaust. The point is that if you cannot verify that a venturi or suction is taking place, you may be blowing exaust into your valve cover.

I would not dismiss this out of hand because I would be very concerned with the possiblity of blowing exhaust into my engine.

Final bloviation, I wouldn't even have a doghouse on the driver side except I'm too lazy to eliminate that item right now. I'm thinking a straight fitting out of that side too. Those vapors are nasty and I don't want any of that condensate getting back into my oil.

 

Took me a while to find the duct tape in that photo, ernesteugene. Your photos are kinda like the "where's Waldo" pictures for duct tape, if you look hard enough you can always find some.

 

Does that oil fill tube just screw into the valve cover or there a nut on the back side?

 

Very simple. If you engine is leaking, you are blowing exhaust into the VC. If you are doing it like in the pic from Kraven, you are getting a venturi effect. Ask me how I know.

 

Ok, how do you know, you gauged your CCV pressure?

 

If it leaked, pressure was present.

You see, I knew I was smarter than Kraven. WTF!! Everybody knows that way he had would never work. I knew better. So I had it welded in the way it should be and the hell with Kraven. Oil started to leak. Hmmmm. We'll take the hose off and clean it off. Well that stopped the oil leak.

Next, I put the hose to the pipe I welded. The exhaust looked a little cloudy. Took it away and it cleared. Did this several times.

Kraven, to his credit was a lot smarter than I originally thought he was.

 

I agree with the nasty condensation part, which is why I think it's a bad idea to run the CCV hose up and over the brake master cylinder. Once the oil vapors escape the hot VC and mix with humidity and condense they become very acidic (acid rain), and letting this condensation drain back into the VC doesn't sound appealing to me. I took great pains (in my back) to make sure my CCV hose ran straight out the rear of the doghouse and down the firewall, so that it always had a good drainage slope all the way back to where it terminates about half-way back the fuel tank.

On the other hand, I think the original doghouse probably serves a useful function in limiting the amount of raw oil that might be blown out of the engine while pulling long grades at near WOT. I measured up to a 3" H20 CC pressure pulling those 6% grades on I-26 headed north out of Asheville, and Racor claims up to 10 cfm flow from our CC under those conditions. I blew and sucked on my new doghouse (I didn't try this on the used one) and couldn't detect any restriction, so I don't think that thin layer of stainless mesh that acts as an oil barrier will increase CC pressure very much even when it gets soaked with oil vapor. The oil soaked mesh also serves the useful function of helping to keep the humid ambient air from penetrating back into the engine when it is off.

 

Well Gene, I thought we could agree on something but I will now part ways with you. That doghouse will be leaving my engine when I get around to it. I would rather replace oil with fresh than have that "catch" drain back in there. How can I lose there?

BTW, where you at now?

 

This doesn't prove that your exhaust isn't backing up into your CC! It will back up into the CC until the pressure from the CC blow by builds to a sufficient level to start pushing the vapor back out the CC against the back pressure from the exhaust. The only sure way to know what your CC pressure is under various load conditions is to install a gauge and measure it. I've only measured two CCV setups going to the exhaust, but they both showed excessive CC pressure that was at least X10 higher than venting directly to the atmosphere!

 

Well, we are all smarter than someone else until we find out we are not. When you get a chance, could you refresh me on this with a link? I do know that venting the CCV gasses to the atmosphere is pretty much foolproof, but I'm curious about Kraven's results. No measurements equals no quantifiable results. I can see the gasses leaving my CCV vent tube and that tells me it is working properly. Ernest measured mine and I'm satisfied it is working very well.

 

The way I could lose is if I blow so much oil out the CC during some of the 15 to 20 mile long grades I climb out west that I run out of oil before reaching the top! Didn't you see my previous post about the guy with a stock CCV and a restricted air filter where the extra vacuum sucked so much oil from his engine that it stopped running?

I don't think the doghouse causes that much of a "drain back" condition, but it does stop a lot of the liquid oil from splashing up and out the vent along with the flow of vapor. Remember that the CCV is in close proximity to the valve train, and oil is splashing against the inside of the VC. The pic below shows where the doghouse bolts to the VC, and the inside attaching brackets also appear to serve as a baffle to help control splashing. Also, compared to the "oil wet mesh" in the doghouse that covers the holes in the VC, a direct vent will allow much more humid air to enter the CC every time the engine cools down and sits overnight, and condense there causing far more damage than whatever small amount of drain back that might result from leaving the doghouse in place.

We're in Falling Waters WV, just across the Potomac River from Hagerstown MD where the wife visits her family every summer. Below is a pic of our set up from last year. If our MD (as in Dr) appointments go ok, we plan on heading west the first week in July.

 

The fitting I used has a tapered thread that starts off at 1/2", so I just drilled a 1/2" hole and started self taping the fitting into the filler neck. It just happened to work out that the fitting was getting good and tight after about 3 threads appeared on the inside of the tube. For good measure, as I got the first few threads started, I smeared some clear lock tight over the rest of the fitting before I threaded it in the rest of the way.

BTW, don't even consider putting a nut on the insider if that filler tube. Just think of all the damage it would do when it comes off and falls into the engine!

Edit...I just read this again, and now I see you're talking about the filler tube, not my fitting into the filler tube!!! Yes, just grab the filler tube at the top with a pair of channel lock pliers, and it will screw right out. It seals with a large O ring against the top surface of the VC.