David, There should be plenty for sale on eBay. Look for one that has a long stick. Either 3- or 4-speed should be usable.

 

I will try to get a picture of the shifter than came with my 5531 (same thing as a 5831). It appears to be home made by the previous owner, but its a really slick design. Single stick operates both Low and Direct/OD rails.

Me personally I think I'm going to have 2 levers (never can have enough levers in the cab, I think I'll have 7 or 8 by the time I'm done...lol) and I'll "lock" the Low lever because I won't be using that too often, I primarily will be using the direct/OD lever to split all the gears while I'm driving. If I really need the Low range I'll just have to make sure the Direct/OD is in Neutral before I shift into Low range.

 

The 5381 has an interlock in between the rails in the top-cover, so it will "keep you honest". This is necessary because remote shifters are not much smarter than the driver, so the trans has to do the "thinking".

Your system will work fine as long as you only use the bottom gear as a low range that you only shift when the vehicle is not moving. If you want to shift while rolling, the fewer sticks, the better -- this is why I am installing my Roadranger in my F-350. It has 10 evenly spaced gears (+2 reverses) selected by one stick.

 

that will work,I built one already bout 10 yrs back

 

I know this is a ford forum but I plan on using a set-up like this on my 350. the 5ton has a cummins 240 then a spicer 5 speed and a divorced trasfercase, I would like to place the od between the 5speed and the transfer or in front of the tranny any help will be great, I need to know what will be strong enough to holdup but it will be used mainly to run in high gear.

 

Hi all, I have a 56 f600 with a t98 + 8031 aux pictures in my gallery I'm currently working on a cummins conversion for it I'll be using a 5.9 cummins and 6sp fuller out of a 94 f700 + spicer 6041 aux (picture of aux trans shifter mounted to the 6sp[/IMG]

 

Hello, Newbie here, Thanks for having me.

I'm building a truck using a low rpm max (2400rpm '64 GMC V-12) engine. Using a '72 Ford F-350 long wheelbase frame and chassis for a base. I need to increase the ratios enough to gain 70-80 mph max speeds. The truck will not be used for heavy loads, long drives, smoking tires, heavy clutching, etc. Just a "show & tell" truck. Trailered any distances. I have a New Process 5sp direct tranny behind it now.

QUESTION: I have a Spicer 5831 3spd "Brownie". Could it be turned backwards and use 1st gear in the brownie to double my ratios??? Would it lubricate and work ok without ruining it???

This may have been answered in prior posts, so will keep looking. Any replys will be appreciated.
Cayoterun

 

Cayoterun,

The smaller Brown-Lipe two-speed was specifically designed to go either way and my Dad ran his as an overdrive for a long time and then reversed it and ran it as an underdrive for another long time. I studied the cross-section pictorial of the 5831 (see my gallery) and do not see anything that would cause an obvious problem. I think that there was at least one guy who did what you are proposing, so if you look through the old threads, you may find it. With your limited running, my opinion is that you should be OK.

P.S.: The only oiling problem might come from idling for a long time with the auxiliary in neutral. The gears would all be stationary and so no oil would get splashed about. Using a PTO on the auxiliary would not work because the gears are connected to the rear axle. (All this is assuming the vehicle is stationary.)

 

Idle lube: At at engine idle, if the main tranny was in neutral and the truck stationary, all gears would be dead in the brownie and no harm done correct?? Non-lube in brownie would only happen when main was in gear turning the input on brownie in neutral. right??

If someone has a NP, Spicer, or Clark 5pd , preferably over/w top shifter, I'd be interested. I'm in western Oklahoma.

As I read thru this site, there's much knowledge shared, I'm glad a friend recommended you guys. I don't know his screen name.
Thanks,
Cayoterun
Marvin

 

Marvin,

Yes -- as long as the auxiliary is left in gear, nothing in it turns while the main idles in neutral. (If you need a PTO, mount it on the main trans.) You are not likely to tow this big boy, but the way to do it would be with the main in gear and the aux in neutral. All the aux gears would be turning and there should be good oiling.

Someday (soon, I hope), I will be putting my Roadranger into my F-350 and will be able to part with the NP-540 that has been in it for 400,000 miles (99% before I got it). I occasionally go to CA, so I could drop it off. It works OK, but the pin syncros seems to shift hard to me. The previous owner says it was always that way . . .

 

Does anyone have a way to identify a New Process transmission from casting #s and such.
I have two trannys with no data plates, but have the look of New Process.
One fits the V12 motor, but came from a cabover truck. I need to change it to a top-shift instead a cabover shift with rods that run back to the tranny.



Elliott recommended this site, Thanks, Bob.
Cayoterun
Marvin

 

Hey Guy's,
Man, it has been great reading all of this good info. I'm not a Ford guy, but there is so much good info here I had to ask some questions.

I am building a 79 Suburban 4X4 with a Detroit 4-53T, some sort of GM 5 speed (granny and 1-1 5th), Spicer 5513, 2-1, 1-1, .73-1. Got the motor and trans in, still some reinforcing to do, and now I am throwing up the Spicer. I built the shortest drive line I could, but if I use it, I will end up with about a 2' rear drive line after the 205TC. Not going to work. So, what I did was I just removed the center section and used just one joint with 2 flanges. Bolted up perfect and doesn't seem to bind by hand. It spins nice.
Has anyone attempted this? Do you guy's think I will have any problems with vibration? I appreciate all the help!
Jim

 

hi all i just found this thread on brownies. i hope you all can help me out.
i have a 1985 cc 2wd f350 6.9 that had a c6auto in it. i swaped it out for a old t18 and added a brownie 3 speed od. i think the brownie is a brown lipe but not sure the tag is not there. if i can get some pictures posted in my gallire maybe some one can tell me what it is. i used a hurst conversen floor shifter for the brownie shifter and it workes fine but the brownir soundes like a den full of pissed off bears.i spent 2 years of intisaption on this thing and 2 weeks putting it in now cant drive it till i rebuild it.thanks for any help ken

 

Jim,

I think I understand what you are proposing, but I will write what I think you are doing to be certain: Are you using a single U-joint cross between the main transmission output shaft and auxiliary transmission input shaft? I think I have heard of people doing this, but I do not think any factory installation was done that way because the side- and end-loading would limit bearing life. Using a short shaft with a U-joint at each end (& a slip-joint) is always a good idea. Because you can control the position of each of the gear-boxes, the intermediate shaft could be very short, so that you could lengthen the rear shaft which has to deal with axle motion. The U-joints should not have zero angle, but around one degree, which allows the needle bearings to move and distribute the load. All the rules of U-joints apply. Dana has a good download on all this. If you cannot find it, let me know and I'll track it down.

Ken,

The later "brownies" had helical gears and were quieter than the early ones that had straight-cut gears. If it is as noisy as you describe, it might only need bearings, which should not be too hard to deal with.

 

thanks for the come back acheda. iam sure i need new bearings but if i can get some pictures maybe some one can tell what kind of brownie it is.will try to get the better half to down load them off her comp. thanks again.ken