installed this also last weekend:

razor blade, deep sockets and needle-nose pliers for the long-bolt.

bought nylock nuts instead of the non-locking ones that came w/ the kit.

also halved a extra len of hose and zip-tied over where the hose runs over the intercooler line.

unbolted the intercooler hose from the top to get at the heater hose (def makes it easier).

sip-tied a rubber square under the heater hose tie-in so the wiring harness has zero chance of abrasion from hose clamps. routed between oil fill hose and trans dipstick to heater hose directly beneath the intercooler hose.

placed a 3" tire patch on the radiator hose to protect from hose clamp abrasion as well.

lost ~3 quarts of coolant cutting the heater hose line. placed a piece of bubble wrap (came w/ kit) under the hose prior to cutting to keep the coolant off the motor.

did not add ball valves (does not come w/kit). might add some soas not to lose coolant when changing filter.

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all told, not bad. directions were very sparse, but w/a little trial and error everything finds a place. would like to see a little better factory taps on the filter manifold that came w/ the kit.
the mounting could also be tucked up a little closer to the radiator mount so the filter assembly cannot flex as much.
pressure guage and ball valves should be optional w/ this kit.
look forward to cutting open a filter in a few k mi.

 

ball valves are a option...27 dollars i think for both of them.

 

easier and cheaper to buy your own ball valves, but i did use the ones from their site.
they aren't the best quality ones out there but have worked so far. i can't imagine changing it without those valves closed.

 

I did not get the ball valves. Last week I changed the filter for the first time. I used a couple of "quick-grip" type bar clamps to pinch the hoses closed. These clamps are for wood working and the have smooth, soft plastic jaws. They worked well w/ only a few drops of lost coolant.