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I don't know myself. I imagine you still need to change the coolant itself to replace the additives. I know when I change my filter canister, I have to add more coolant. I don't reuse what I can dump from the filter. That would seem silly. So I have to add some new coolant at the filter changes. I would test my coolant before I change it, this 'add a little' at a time may extend the change interval.
I don't want to hyjack this thread but I think it is a good place for this question I have. I called Dieselsite when I changed my first filter at about 3-4 hundred miles and asked about the slime that clogged my filter. He said he only heard of it a couple of times in the past and only with the gold coolant. It seems that looking at some of the posts here I am not the only one that found a slime clogged filter. My Question is, Maybe the slime is supposed to be there as a lubricant. I hope we are not removing an additive. Any Thoughts?
i would like to know the same thing about the slime in the filter, is it the additives being filtered out of the coolant and clogging up the filter? if that were the case i would be shipping my system back to diesel site for a refund. does anybody know? maybe beachbum would know, he has this system also.
very interesting, not sure what the slime could be coming from. i hadn't heard anyone with the slime in the filter until this thread. I didn't think antifreeze was a lubricator, but who knows what the gold coolant does. I'm heading outside right now to change my first filter, so I can see if I have the slime now. after 5000 miles, i'm sure it needs to be changed.
What is the best way to open up the Baldwin coolant filter and inspect the filter internals? Hack saw?, manual can opener, etc?
I just changed my filter after 4000 miles (first change since installing). I do not know if it was plugged or not since I had not felt to see if it was hot after the engine warmed up in many many miles. I do want to see what it is catching!
IMO just film that builds up over time from the constant temp changes...I have worked on some john deere engines that came stock with a coolant filter...so they arnt going to filter anything that the coolant needs.
i changed my filter now, i put it on the truck when the truck was brand new, with about 500 miles on it, and now the truck has 6400 miles. I cut open the filter using a sawsall and metal cutting blade. i didnt' have a vise handy, so i had to hold it with my hand up against some scrape wood, it wasn't easy to hold but i managed to cut the bottom of the filter off and got the element out. it was a dark chocolate color, i was surprised to not find much sand, unless it's so small that it's embedded in the filter element. i didnt' find any slime at all, it was still warm from running it a few hours before that, but no slime to speak of and the filter wasn't black like i have seen some pictures that beach posted. maybe the older the truck is when you put it on, the more crap will get caught because the coolant is older and dirtier, than with mine when i put it on right away and even now with 6400 miles, the coolant in the overflow is nice golden yellow with no dirt in it. i guess the filter is working!
I'll change the filter every 6 or 7k miles from now on. I don't think mine was plugged solid like some have claimed, not sure how WHITE the filter element is when the filter is brand new either.
Still haven't got around to getting this installed. Is there a good set of instructions somewhere? My kit didn't come with any and the dieselsite doesn't have them on it's website.
I wouldn't worry about removing the slime if there is any. I would be more concerned about not removing the sand and grit. Another way to tell a plugged filter is the return hose to the degass bottle and the filter will be cold compared to the radiator hoses.
the kit should have come with instructions, if not, it's pretty simple to do, you can look at some of the gallery pics of installs here on the site or call dieselsite and ask them to fax or email you a copy of the install instructions. the bracket can only go in one spot and the rest is just routing the hose the neatest way and where it won't hit anything and tapping the T's and fittings into them, with hose clamps.
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