JT, at the risk of sounding like a boob, I think your problem is in the stacked reservior. Deny the foaming all you want but let's just call it aeration for a moment. Is that reservoir full to the top? I just don't think your engine is crapping the bed all of a sudden. So if there's air there, is the oil up to the top? Is the sender in the top/stock location still?

I'm thinking you are still fine oil pressure wise. I know Kwikk errs on the side of safety but I'm not feeling the same way about the situation. I think you are getting a bogus reading. Not that it is bogus in the reservior, but that your engine is fine and that added capcity has skewed what you should be reading. If you dropped to 0-no PSI there, the engine would die. Since it continues to run, only two things can be going on. The first is a bad reading. The second is you have no pressure in the LPO which I highly doubt. The only problem is the added oil capacity you now have would keep it running via the HPOP.

I can't wait to hear the results. The only thing bugging me is the number of units installed and I suppose, the reported lack of problems.

 

If it were aeration, why just all of a sudden? And with fresh oil too? The sending unit is no longer at the top. It's in the BTS pump block about 2 inches under the stock reserivoir, in a horizontal position. I have pulled the plug in the top and it's full of oil.

Remember that the stock sensor is just a switch. Below 7 psi of oil, it will read zero. I know oil pressure is not dropping to zero because it won't run if that happened. But, I'm thinking it may be dropping below 7 psi, and just reading zero.

I was searching for normal oil pressures as Alan suggested, and ran across zeveral guys who have had similar problems some with dual HPOPs, some not. One promising solution, some guy had the same problem, replaced the LPOP, sender, and oil. His turned out to be the oil cooler. There's a bypass valve inside the oil cooler and it was stuck open, which caused the oil pressure to drop at idle. Replacement of the oil cooler fixed the problem.

Once my gauges get in and I can get a reading on the actual pressure numbers, it's looking like I've got some different directions to take. The big releif is that the mains weren't a problem in any of the posts I had read. But, the cooling jets were mentioned a couple of times.

 

Jt, remember, I said I was going to be optimistic. I am aware things were ok before and now, no. I cannot explain that. I can say that mods take some running down after the install. That is why I've always said make one at a time and evaluate. I will be watching this post. I'm at the end of my suggestions for now.

 

JT, that post on TDS was from TheHammer69. I took his recommendation and tapped the oil pressure from the back of the block. I wanted to see the pressure the bearings had. With the Rotella T syn, I have 21-24 psi idle(hot) and 40-45 at 1800 RPM(hot). My numbers were slightly lower(2-3 psi) running the synthetic oil. My truck has 290000 miles. Only the last 60000 were put on by me. I have no idea how the PO treated this truck. I guess what I'm trying to say is, I'd pull that HPOP before I pulled an engine. Good Luck
Duncan

 

Is that the one in the diagram i posted on page 6? and is this a separate bypass from the filter housing or are they the same piece?

 

Tenn, I know....optimistic. Me too. I'm with you trying to figure this out....at the end of my chain of ideas.

Duncan, thanks for the numbers. I going to do everything I can before I think aboiut pulling the engine.

Edit: Alan, from my reading it's a seperate valve. One for the cooler and one for the filter.

 

Good i was afraid they were the same piece, but the way i am iterpreting fords naming of that piece (Presure relief/regulator valve) i would take a hard look at this area. I dont think airation would have started all of a sudden either unless you swapped to some cheap off the shelf oil. Also the way the HPOP is fed extreme low LPOP pressure will cause the truck to die due to lack of HPOP pressure so the HPOP is getting enuff oil to keep pressures high enuff to drive the injectors so we are back to thinking along the line of a small pressure drop. The iron still greatly concerns me though, I hope it is from the extra drive gear on the HPOP.
I know you are a synthetic man but Delo 400 is very high in moly content and may be worth a couple of "Short changes" to get some wear numbers from Blackstone

 

Do you know what kind of moly content the Delo has? The Schaeffer's has a high moly content too...well high to me anyway, when compared to the Mobil 1 I was using. It caught me off guard when I got the first Blackstone report back after I switched. I remember the PPM of the moly in Schaeffer's being higher than what I had seen.

 

My Moly was at 87 on 5000 miles at the last change

 

Thanks Alan. I don't think mine was that high. I'll double check it when I get home today. (Early day today - off at 3!! But I do have errands to run after work. ) I do remember that the Mobil's moly numbers were down into the single digits.