I'm replacing my low pressure oil pump this weekend, but have a few questions that hopefully you all can help out with. I ran a search, but didn't come up with any answers.

1) What size of socket will I need to remove the bolt from the crank pulley?

2) Do I have to pull the radiator, or will there be room to change it out with just the fan and shroud removed?

3) This one may be a long shot, but what size & thread pattern bolts will I need to screw into the pulley to get it off with the puller?

4) I've heard I need to pack the gears with grease to help initially prime the pump and protect it. What should I use, some type of assembly grease, vaseline, something else?

5) Do I need to use an installer tool to put the crank pulley/harmonic balancer back on, or can I just use the bolt? The shop manual I have says to just use the bolt.

Any other tips you can provide would also be appreciated. This is unchartered waters for me, so I'm not sure what to expect. Thanks for the help.

 

I don't think you have to remove the radiator, let alone the fan if you were just doing the oil pump.
You don't need to cram a lot of grease in there. Whenever I replace an oil pump I simply lubricate the gears with transmission oil (nice and thick) and the oil pressure comes up right away.

 

Thanks Dan. I'll be easy on the grease. I'm swapping the water pump too at this time, so the fan will be coming off anyway.

 

1. It was somewhere around an inch socket. I have an S-K 1/2 drive socket set. It was in that.
2. I had everything out when I did mine, The puller that you use will dictate how much room you need. I know it's a PITA, but I'd pull it.
3. Years ago I bought the Snap-on kit, everything I needed was in there. Any good kit should have what you need.
4. I used shadetree assy lube on mine!! Vasaline. Put it in the refrigerator overnight so it doesnt melt off so fast.
5. lined right up for me. tightened up with stock bolt.

Not as hard as you might think, room to access is the biggest problem. I took Quiks advice and changed mine out when I did my water pump. Nothing but room to work then. If you need to borrow my puller PM me.
Good Luck
Duncan

 

I read somewhere the crankshaft bolt is 24mm. Sounds right.

 

Thanks guys. I've got a puller, just not sure about the bolts that thread into the socket. I guess I'll probably end up biting the bullet and pulling the radiator, but I haven't committed to doing that yet. 24 mm sounds about right.

I'm starting on this project later this evening. Luckily, I've got a friend who just built a shop (which I helped with) earlier this year. My truck is in his shop and I can take my time working on it. So, I'll be starting tonight with just removing small stuff and draining the radiator. I'm off early tomorrow, and I'm going to try and get the bulk of the work done tomorrow night. We've got a turbo to install on his truck during Saturday.

 

1. It is a 24mm. A 1" should also fit in a pinch

2. You don't have to, but the more room you have to work the easier the work is. It just takes a few minutes to ****** the radiatir and CAC, and that will give you enough room to actually get in there and stand in front of the engine.

3. I have an el' cheapo autozone puller and it had the correctly threaded bolts in it.

4. I used Vaseline in mine. I also pulled the IDM fuse and the crossover line to visually make sure it was primed before I started it.

5. I just used the bolt to push the dampner down.

 

Hope the replacement goes smoothly, Jeremy. Update us when you can.

 

another, easier way to prime the engine without having it starting is to unplug the CPS connector, but leave the CPS in. it will crank and mechanically build pressure, but the injectors won't fire.

 

Easier than pulling a fuse???

 

Well Jeremy, sad to hear you're replacing the oil pump. I hope that is the fix but I've not heard of an oil pump doing what you say. When they turn to poo, the are generally total poo from my experience. I may just learn some PSD stuff on this one here. A good gauge might have given us a better picture with which to diagnose the situation.

Good Luck with it.

 

Here's the latest, after some work tonight.

Things went pretty smooth so far. I decided to leave the radiator in, and see how much room I've got. I'm not a real big guy, so I figured I'd give it a shot, and it looks like the radiator will stay in. I got everything pretty much out, so tomorrow I might get it all finished up. Water pump is out, crank pulley is off, all I have to do is pull the old oil pump out and then being reassembly.

When I pulled the crank pulley though, I did notice there was some grey sealant of some type on the square key that's on the crank. What is this, and do I need to add some fresh stuff to it before I put a pulley back on? The service manual I have makes no mention of it.

So tomorrow's adjenda will be pull the old oil pump, put the new one in, put the new water pump on, and button everything back up. I'll take the advice of priming before firing too. Probably use the CPS trick, since it's already unhooked.

Since all the stuff is off, I'm putting on a new upper radiator hose (one that goes around the serpentine), both lower hoses, and a new serpentine belt. I'm also installing a Fluidampr instead of the stock balancer.

If everything tomorrow goes as smoothly as it did tonight (knock on wood), I'll have it done before too late in the evening. Now, if this doesn't fix my oil gauge/light problem, I don't know what it might be.

 

This is all I could find:

Install the crankshaft front seal, using the Front Crank Seal Replacer, thread adapter, driver sleeve and driver/puller screw. Install the crankshaft front seal until it is fully seated.

1. Assemble the Driver Handle to the damper wear ring replacer. Insert the crankshaft damper wear ring into the damper wear ring replacer and position the tool assembly into the crankshaft vibration damper as shown. Use a ballpen hammer to seat the crankshaft damper wear ring into the hub of the crankshaft vibration damper.

1. Apply RTV sealant to the crankshaft keyway prior to crankshaft vibration damper installation. Install the vibration damper, using the driver/puller screw, driver sleeve and thread adapter.

No mention of the specs on this RTV sealant though. Cut and paste did not carry the proper paragraph numbering either.

 

That grey stuff is the aluminum silicone sealant that Ford and International use in place of gaskets on the oil pan, rear diff cover, etc. It's made by the Victor Reinz gaskets co. It's a low volatile R.T.V that's O2 sensor safe and +500* temperature resistant.

It's very, very good stuff...but any old sealant will work on the crank keyway. It's only there to hold the key in place during assembly and doesn't actually seal anything.

 

Only used for assembly, huh. Well, that's comforting that it doesn't actually seal anything. One less thing for me to worry about.