<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="70%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom>Item </TH><TH vAlign=bottom>Part Number </TH><TH vAlign=bottom>Description </TH><TR vAlign=top><TD>1 </TD><TD>6658 </TD><TD>High-pressure oil pump reservoir </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>2 </TD><TD>6010 </TD><TD>Cylinder block </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>3 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Anti-drain check ball cap

(part of 6658)
</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>4 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>O-ring seal (part of 6658) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>5 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Spring (part of 6658) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>6 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Check ball (part of 6658) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>7 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Valve lifter oil galleries

(part of 6010)
</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>8 </TD><TD>6C327 </TD><TD>Piston cooling oil jet </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>9 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Turbocharger oil return gallery (part of 6010) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>10 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Turbocharger oil supply gallery (part of 6010) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>11 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Pressure relief/regulator valve (part of 9155) </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>12 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Oil filter bypass drain

(part of 6881)
</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>13 </TD><TD>— </TD><TD>Main oil gallery

(part of 6010)
</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>14 </TD><TD>6A642 </TD><TD>Oil cooler </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>15 </TD><TD>6881 </TD><TD>Oil cooler header </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>16 </TD><TD>6622 </TD><TD>Oil pump screen cover and tube </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>17 </TD><TD>6608 </TD><TD>Gerotor oil pump </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>18 </TD><TD>6019 </TD><TD>Engine front cover </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Jeremy I hope the metals are not as high as Kwikk is afraid they are but here is something to check. # 11 just above the filter housing toward the back of the oil cooler. If this bypass is stuck open it is providing 2 flow paths (Through and Around) at the filter. More paths mean less pressure. Oil not being filtered as well as normal = increased wear metals. I'm reaching i know but I am trying to find something other than the cooling jet or a front cover issue but I am running out of ideas outside of the Motor

 

Guys, I really don't think the problem IS outside of the motor. The killer is the fact that the problem only shows up when the oil is hot and thinned out, then the light comes on.
That's 99% of the time something is bleeding off the pressure somewhere. What that something is, could be anything. I'm guessing at the piston jets because that is a common occurance with the PSD.

 

I should slow down a little when I read.
Does that bypass valve dump back into the crankcase or is that the one that just re-routes the oil around the oil filter if the filter is clogged?

 

I honestly dont know Kwikk, I always thought the bypass valve was internal to the filter housing but this is showing a regulator/relief valve that appears separate to the internal bypass valve.

 

I guess all we can do now is wait for Jeremy to get back to us with his findings.
Good luck to you Jeremy, I hope it's a relatively easy fix.

 

Well, the increased wear metals are aluminum and iron, which they say could show piston scuffing. Copper and lead are also higher, which they state shows excessive bearing wear. This oil was at 6000 miles. Amuminum was 6 ppm, Iron 28, Copper 7, and Lead 17. However, Blackstone also mentioned that this could be due to the bio-diesel I've been running lately.

I hope that a cooling jet hasn't fallen off. That would not be a fun fix.

Alan, I have no problems with you reaching way out there to figure out what's up. I'm not going to rule anything out at this point. But, I think some real number will be a good contributor to diagnosing this problem. I wish my gauges would get here tomorrow.

 

I don't think this is the filter bypass. That valve bypasses the filter, but there is no return from it to the oil pan to reduce oil pressure, it still feeds full pressure oil the oiling system.

I think Kwikk is on the right track here. Those are classic symptoms of low oil pressure due to a internal leakage. The wear metals also indicate this is a real oil pressure problem rather than a guage issue.

I hope you can resolve it, but if it were mine I'd be getting the engine hoist ready.

 

In the past I had a few gassers that had the same symptoms. On cold start the motor had all around great oil pressure. Once it warmed up it dropped. I verified this with mechanical gauges on all of them. Turned out the mains were worn.

 

I do believe that is pointing to an internal issue Jeremy.

 

The oil did have 6000 miles on it though. At 3000 miles, those numbers looked normal. The next two changes I'm not pushing it to 6000 miles, but changing it at 3000 to see how the numbers look.

 

Man, be absent for two days and the sky is falling. I was going to hope it was something like the oil was foaming or aerating in the HPO reservior after it warmed/thinned thus giving a lower reading to the sender. I thought this may be due to the added gearing in there now, but I don't know what the working RPMs are in there.

I think it is definately time to make sure you have another LPO reading location away from the HPO reservior. That could isolate the problem for you. I can't believe your engine is heading south like that. Could those higher metal results have come from the new BTS pump assembly gearing? At least that would explain that away. Also, your new pump will shed some wear in stuff too.

 

The alluminum could be from the new setup but the iron is what caught my eye. that is generally evidence of cylinder wall abrasion

 

I will choose to be uncharacteristically optimistic and attribute his new found problem to the new setup he has and not some impending doom. Chin up, stiff upper lip and all of that sort of rot ol chap. Cheerio.

 

I am hoping too that the extra material is from the pump setup just wearing its edges off since it was new. The oil that had the high metal partices was the oil that was put in right after I changed to the dual pump setup. I was thinking the extra iron may have come from the additional gear they intalled to drive the new pump. I'll know more after a couple of 3000 mile oil changes.

I think the pump turns at 1.5 times engine speed, but I'm not 100% sure on that. But, since the oil that is in there now is brand new, I wouldn't think that foaming would be a problem.

I made sure to order 2 sending units for the oil pressure gauge, so I can see what happens to the pressure in the block as well. I know there will be a 15-20 pound difference between the HPOP res and the block, or that's what Brian tells me anyway. But, I do need to find some standard or normal figures for what oil pressure is supposed to be in these trucks.

 

One guy on TDS posted about his pressure gauge in the back of the block and if i remember correctly it was 20-25psi at idle and 50-60psi at speed. If you do a search on TDS i believe it was back in june or july this year

According to ford at the oil gallery port it should be 40-70psi at 3300rpm at N.O.T.