you're doing the Fluidampr! awesome, i am patiently waiting for results in a difference in how it runs and performs, if any.

 

Quick question...If the oil pump was bad, wouldn't it be picked up on the oil analysis? After reading all the threads again it just seems like it's something else. I used to have a 90 Bronco with a 5.8 that did the same thing. Engine was in dire need of a rebuild. I'm waiting to hear about this.

 

Oil analysis has been showing some increases in a few metals, which has happened pretty suddenly. I just can't remember which metals right now. This is another reason I think it might be the oil pump.

 

I hope you're right....Let us know what you find.

Duncan

 

After a long night (yes, it's 4 am and I just got home about 30 minutes ago), it's all put back together. Since it was nearly 3 am when we finished up, I honestly didn't feel like going for a drive, so I can't report on whether my oil light problem is fixed. That's on the to do list for tomorrow. But, I'm pleased that it's all back together, and everything seems to be in good shape.

Once the crank pulley / damper was off, changing the actual oil pump was a piece of cake. 4 bolts, old one off, new one on, tighten 4 bolts. Water pump went on without a hassle. I also got the billett thermostat housing (finally), so I've got no more worries about leaking. Replacing all the coolant hoses was as easy as you imagine. Except the new upper hose (routed around the belt) does slightly interfere with my coolant filter, but not enough that I can see it causing problems. It may be that I was tired, but I did have a terrible time getting the serpentine belt routed properly...even with the diagram. But, I finally figured it out. With the CPS unplugged, I cranked the motor to prime the oil pump, then plugged it back in and fired it up. Ran like a champ, well at least sitting in the shop anyway. Brought it up to temp to check for leaks. No leaks. After letting it sit to cool off, I will top of coolant and should be ready to go.

Now, when it came to installing the Fluidampr, that proved to be a bit of a problem and we had to find a solution. I would suggest an installer tool or a longer bolt to use during install for anyone doing this. Reason is, the stock bolt with it's big washer is not long enough to reach the threads on the crank. We had to stack two (using only one washer was bending it) thinner washers to get the Fluidampr most of the way on, then put the big washer on for final torque. It's done though, and I'm curious to see if I notice any differences in the truck with the Fluidampr installed.

I should be able to give a report on the oil light problem and how it runs overall tomorrow. For now, I need to get some sleep. Oh yeah, not only were we getting my truck taken care of, but we were also installing a new turbo on my buddies Cummins tonight. It was a good night, but a long one.

 

Way to go, Jeremy. Sounds like you did a great job on everything. I hope the new oil pump cures the oil light problem.

What turbo went on the CR?

 

I noticed this to Jeremy it looks like the coolant filter needs to set back about 1/8". Mine has not caused trouble yet (2months) but I am kinda wondering if it will make changing the filter a PITA.

 

Got my fingers crossed for 'ya Jeremy.
Good luck

 

Satisfaction of a job well done. I'll be waiting for the report as well.
How many miles on your truck now?

 

I'm baffeled now. This morining, I topped off the coolant and went for a drive. Once the oil was up to temp, the low oil pressure reading was still there when I'm at idle. I have no idea what it could be now. Just like before, when I give it some throttle, the pressure gauge jumps right back to normal. I know it's got good oil pressure since the pump is new, and the sensor is new, so I'm pretty much lost. I can't figure out what would be RPM related that would cause this. I do have the satisfaction that everything went smoothly, and I have some new parts. The water pump was on my preventive maintainence to do list anyway, so I'm glad I got it done too.

I'm now wondering what kind of signal goes to that single wire on the pressure sensor. Is it possible that the gauge reading is somehow related to voltage? When the RPM comes up, volts would go up. Do you think this could be at all related? I may be stretching here, but I don't know what else to check.

Alan, I think a filter change will be a PITA for sure. That upper hose is definately going to be in the way.

Dan, the truck turned 161K today when I was out on my test drive.

Ryan, we put a HTT 62mm turbo on the CR, bought from PDP.

 

well jeremy, at least you know it's not a mechanical problem now



as i was reading your post, i was thinking that you need to make a break-out harness for the oil pressure sensor, and see what the voltage reference TO the sensor is, and the voltage back to the PCM is. Vref is 4.98-5v on my truck, when it was idling. if you have this feature on your AutoEnginuity, look for the voltage reference signal to sensors, and the return back to the PCM. see what you have and other members with the AE should be able to reply with their findings.

 

If you are talking about the OEM oil gauge I believe it reads 2 specific voltage ranges and interprets them as Low and Normal

Jeremy Your not going to like this idea....
If the pickup tube screen in the pan was partially clogged or the tube crimped (Somehow)it might not be able to pickup enuff oil to keep both reservoirs fully presureized at idle

 

Jeremy the pressure swith is an on/off switch My Bad

The switch bypasses the PCM and connects straight to the cluster so Electrical is going to be the best bet. But that means an entire cluster

 

I was afraid something like this was going to happen, though I was hoping I was wrong. My only two thoughts would be to plumb in an aftermarket pressure gauge and know for sure what's going on, or run seperate wiring from the sender to the gauge or as close as you can to each to eliminate a wiring short or problem. Hope you get it sorted out quickly.

 

Quik and dirty Gauge check:

Take a 12v bulb and wire one side to the switch take the other side to 12v+
if the light lights at idle there is pressure and the dash gauge is bad if it doen't it is a switch or pressue problem