8.7mpg
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
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From: Utah County, UT
I ment under the truck, turn the front driveline between the transger case and front diff. The front hubs (lockouts) can definately build up with dust. If they were that hard turn, might want to cycle them a couple times to see if the dirt works out, if not, may be a good time to tear down and clean. Replace orings while in there.
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
I would think you can just crawl under the truck and spin the front driveshaft. If it is free then thats proly not you problem. IMO I think you should jack it up. crank it up and spin each front wheel and watch the drive shaft to see if it turns. If you had that much trouble getting it out of lock and into auto, they may be still be in lock. That will hurt you mileage for sure.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 348
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From: Central, NY
Na, the shaft spins easy and you can see the U joints spinning freely when I turn the driveshaft.
I pulled the vac line off the wastegate actuator and pulled on the wastegate arm. It had alot of spring back, but I was able to move it like 3/8" -> 1/2" open with my hand.
I pulled the vac line off the wastegate actuator and pulled on the wastegate arm. It had alot of spring back, but I was able to move it like 3/8" -> 1/2" open with my hand.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 851
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From: N. Georgia
Over the last few years I've come to the conclusion a CPS can cause anything. If you have a spare I'd change it out. If you don't you need one anyway. I do like the unhook the batteries and let the PCM reset idea. It can't hurt anything.
Joe
Joe
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 348
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From: Central, NY
I'm going to replace the CPS with this one:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...de3faec5563bca
I wonder if I can find it locally. Anyone have the part#? Then I will reset the PCM.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...de3faec5563bca
I wonder if I can find it locally. Anyone have the part#? Then I will reset the PCM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,600
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From: Carhenge
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 780
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From: Chicago suburbs
How are you calculatting the MPG? actual miles per gal? or the lie-o-meter on the console? When you fill up, do you see the fuel at the top of the filler neck, or stop on the first click of the pump? Don't ever believe the console, just the amount you fill up and actual mileage (after checking the accuracy of the odometer, with mile markers or GPS) I can fill 4 - 7 more gallons after the pump clicks off the first time.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by BowDown
Sounds damn good to me! Part# 1807339C92 it is.
Nut
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Scott
Last edited by cookie88; Mar 28, 2006 at 09:21 PM.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 348
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From: Central, NY
Originally Posted by kawika
How are you calculatting the MPG? actual miles per gal? or the lie-o-meter on the console? When you fill up, do you see the fuel at the top of the filler neck, or stop on the first click of the pump? Don't ever believe the console, just the amount you fill up and actual mileage (after checking the accuracy of the odometer, with mile markers or GPS) I can fill 4 - 7 more gallons after the pump clicks off the first time.
. I have filled it up at ruffly the same amount on the fuel gauge, and it takes the same amount of fuel ruffly. I fill to the click, then round up to the next dollar. Every time. I take the gal on the receipt, and divide it into the trip odometer. I know how to compute my milage.