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I have a 90' Bronc whose driver side window will no roll up or down properly. Here's the details I have after trying to fix it:
-The motor works for both directions
-window is on track
-all screws/bolt seem to be in place and tight
-window will move up/down if you manually help it out
-gear teeth in motor don't seem to be meshing with the gear teeth for the window assembly (actually they do help some when rolling down but not at all up)
Hey, I have the same problem on the passanger side. I haven't gotten a chance to look at it yet, but I think it might be something to do with a broken weld on the bracket at the bottom of the window. I'll look at it tonight and let you know if I find my problem.
With all of my Fords I've fixed plenty of them. After you remove the motor, take the one screw out of the plate around the gear and remove that cover. There are three 7/16 diameter nylon bearings/pins that have disinegrated and that's the problem. You can get a gear kit from Autozone, Advance, etc., with these nylon pins and a gear but you never seem to need the gear. I just make my own on my lathe from a larger piece of nylon. I think there's a guy on Ebay that sells them as well.
There is a plug type screw sitting on the top of the motor. I thought this might be a clutch adjustment. Is that a good or bad guess. Any secret on getting that bottom screw out from the mounting plate? I have pretty skinny hands, and still can't get to the damn thing, and I don't want to have to pop out those mounting plate rivets either. Why couldnt Ford have just left a big gap in the door... hey, there's an idea...make a bigger hole, anyone got a sawsall I can borrow?
Don't bother with the adjustment screw, it's the nylon bearings that have broken into many little pieces, it's a very common problem. As for the screw just drill a hole (about 3/8") in the door directly over the screw and then use a 1/4" drive 5/16" socket or a 5/16" nut driver. I believe that's the size. I don't know why Ford didn't have the holes in there in the first place. I've seen a LOT of Ford doors with the holes drilled in them and have done it to most of mine as well.
Don't bother drilling out the aluminum rivets either. You don't need to remove the whole regulator assembly, only the motor. You can do it with the three little bolts removed and take the motor out the same hole that the window motor wire goes thru.
Good tip, I guess I get so frustrated with the one problem, that I don't think of alternate solutions. Gotta work on that, but until then, I'll keep posting my problems. Thanks gov2mod.
No problem, you learn from others (in this case mine!) mistakes. Years ago I drilled out the rivets on the first one I ever did and removed the whole assembly. What a pain. As soon as I got it out and looked at it I thought "What a dumb *** I am", when all I had to do was drill a couple of holes and remove the motor.
Well, my window now runs like a champ. What about you bmw0325? I found reman motors at NAPA was $57 after the core charge, but they didn't have the nylon kit, at mine anyway.
Yea, too late for me. I bought the reman. motor. It was $57 after the $16 core. I'll keep ebay in mind though. I didn't have time to turn my own either, although I'd like to see a new set before even attempting that. For some reason I thought the motor was only $20 or so, and was surprised at the $57. I had replaced the rear window motor on my old bronco a few years ago, maybe thats why I don't remember so well. Oh well.
Last edited by ctch88; Jul 18, 2005 at 09:32 PM.
Reason: delete extra letter "t"
Thanks for the awsome advice. I'm glad to here the simplified proceedure too. I've actually be swamped at work and haven't had time to work on the truck. I let you guys know how it goes when I do. Thanks again for the advice.