Notice Any Difference?
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Trailering
Joined: Apr 2026
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Notice Any Difference?
For those that had a complete "bulletproofing" of their 6.0L, what differences did you notice, if any. My 2004 F-350 Super Duty 6.0L power stroke will be done next week. It is a complete job addressing all five known failure problems. Will it feel like before (but be more reliable) or will I notice a difference in performance? I have an SCT X4 tuner but will be using a mild tune as opposed to a performance tune. The truck has 59,900 miles on it. Six-speed manual.
Fleet Owner
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Early or late '04? What are the "5 known failure points" in your mind?
My '06 has a few more than 5, but not all of them are "major".
59k miles on it is NICE!
My '06 has a few more than 5, but not all of them are "major".
59k miles on it is NICE!
Last edited by bismic; May 25, 2026 at 12:33 PM.
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Trailering
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- ALLIANT POWER NEW FUEL INJECTOR CONTROL MODULE, FITS 2004.5-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE BUILD DATE ON OR AFTER 09/22/2003 4 PIN
1.0 - 2003-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE UPDATED SOLID STEEL TURBO SUPPLY TUBE
1.0 - 2003-2006 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE CYLINDER HEAD, 18MM DOWELS, BUILD DATE TO 01/11/2006 ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER 6,000,000-6,723,721
2.0 - 2003-2010 6.0 FORD POWERSTROKE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET - 18MM DOWEL PIN SIZE, FITS BUILD DATES 2003-JANUARY 11TH 2006, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY
2.0 - ARP HEAD STUD KIT 2003-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE 14MM ARP2000 MATERIAL
1.0 - 2004.5-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE GLOW PLUG, FROM 09/22/2003 - ICP LOCATED AT FRONT OF PASSENGER SIDE VALVE COVER
8.0 - 2005-2007 6.0 DRIVER SIDE GLOW PLUG HARNESS - BUILD DATE 07/19/2004--12/18/2006
1.0 - 2004.5 & 2005-2007 6.0 PASSENGER SIDE GLOW PLUG WIRING HARNESS BUILD - DATE 01/15/04-12/18/2006
1.0 - 2003-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE VALVE COVER GASKET SET
1.0 - 2003-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE FUEL INJECTOR ORING KIT
1.0 - 2003-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE ENGINE OIL COOLER
1.0 - 2003-2010 6.0/6.4 EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET (INDIVIDUAL)
2.0 - 50/50 ELC Coolant CAT EC-1 RATED, RED
7.0 - 2003-2010 6.0/6.4 POWERSTROKE OIL FILTER - MOTORCRAFT
1.0 - 2003-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE FUEL FILTER KIT, INCLUDES PRIMARY AND SECONDARY WATER SEPERATOR FILTER
1.0 - REFRIGERANT R-134A (SOLD PER POUND)
2.69 - PAG 46
1.0 - 2004.5-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE SQUARE EGR COOLER - INCLUDES GASKET KIT, BUILD DATE ON OR AFTER 09/22/2003
1.0 - 2004.5-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE UPDATED HIGH PRESSURE OIL STANDPIPE AND DUMMY PLUG COMPLETE KIT, BUILD DATE FROM 09/22/2003 x1 KIT PER VEHICLE
1.0 - FUEL PRESSURE SPRING KIT, FITS 2003-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE
1.0 - POWERS STEERING FLUID 1 GALLON
1.0 - Hot Shot's Secret Green Diamond Fleet 5w40 Full Synthetic CK4 Engine Oil with FR3 Nano-Technology
3.75 - 2003-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE UPDATED TURBO DRAIN TUBE
1.0 - 2003-2007 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE METAL COLD SIDE INTERCOOLER TUBE, INCLUDES SILICONE HOSES ON BOTH ENDS AND 3 CLAMPS
1.0 - UNLIMITED DIESEL PERFORMANCE 2003-2007 6.0 COOLANT FILTER KIT - INCLUDES FILTER
1.0 - BULLET PROOF DIESEL 100MM BILLET WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY, FITS 2004.25-2010 FORD 6.0 POWERSTROKE, BUILD DATE 09/23/2003 AND AFTER
Fleet Owner
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Trailering
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I will see about adding a HPOP, ICP and IRP. while the other work is being done. What about noticing any changes after the work is done?
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TBH, the only thing you might notice is that you pressure up less in the coolant degas bottle, and you will only notice that if you have a pressure gauge on it.
You only get extra power, etc when you install a tune.
One other thing to have is the blue spring upgrade on the fuel pressure regulator - helps preserve injector life to keep fuel pressure over 45 psi (hopefully you had the upgraded spring installed).
It is HIGHLY recommended to install a pressure gauge on the fuel supply also!
Did you have the heads o-ringed?
You only get extra power, etc when you install a tune.
One other thing to have is the blue spring upgrade on the fuel pressure regulator - helps preserve injector life to keep fuel pressure over 45 psi (hopefully you had the upgraded spring installed).
It is HIGHLY recommended to install a pressure gauge on the fuel supply also!
Did you have the heads o-ringed?
Last edited by bismic; May 24, 2026 at 07:06 AM.
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You will probably not notice much, unless you run a hardcore tune. The HPOP is later unless it is weak and giving you issues because the round style like we have last a while (not like the later years but they last).
I am not sure what you were told about the outcome but it will be your same truck but more dependable if put together CORRECTLY.
I am curious about your cylinder heads and where they were obtained new or if your were original machined, were they o-ringed?
Sensors are not cheap (ICP,IPR) so if they're not broken why replace them?
What was wrong with the FICM since it is new and what condition are your injectors in? A bad FICM ruins injectors so were they replaced or deemed ok?
I am not sure what you were told about the outcome but it will be your same truck but more dependable if put together CORRECTLY.
I am curious about your cylinder heads and where they were obtained new or if your were original machined, were they o-ringed?
Sensors are not cheap (ICP,IPR) so if they're not broken why replace them?
What was wrong with the FICM since it is new and what condition are your injectors in? A bad FICM ruins injectors so were they replaced or deemed ok?
Last edited by joe blow; May 23, 2026 at 07:03 PM.
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Trailering
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The heads are o-ringed. I wasn't looking for performance. Just looking to make it reliable and last. I will double check the heads being used.
Last edited by Dougger1957; May 23, 2026 at 07:55 PM.
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Trailering
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If I replace the HPOP I was thinking why not change the ICP and IRP? The engine is open and the cost of replacing them later could be pretty expensive. I'm in deep now and the extra cost these items isn't going to change the bill that much. Although I am pretty well tapped out. I will be selling things to replace the money spent on this work.
5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2026
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As a prior 6.0 owner, you have to draw a line somewhere with “while it’s open.”
There’s also a risk when handling any 20 year old connector or wire bundle.
I maintain my own vehicle on most repairs, but found myself an absolute clutz with the 6.0.
Example was losing orings on the ground with the blue spring upgrade. Then installing it wrong so it leaks.
So, if you have a good track record with diesel repairs and you are not missing a rent payment or food, or going deep on debt could be a good choice.
There’s also a risk when handling any 20 year old connector or wire bundle.
I maintain my own vehicle on most repairs, but found myself an absolute clutz with the 6.0.
Example was losing orings on the ground with the blue spring upgrade. Then installing it wrong so it leaks.
So, if you have a good track record with diesel repairs and you are not missing a rent payment or food, or going deep on debt could be a good choice.
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Trailering
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I am not a diesel mechanic. Diesels are new to me. I am having the work done. The shop doing the work said this truck is the cleanest they had ever seen for being 22 years old. I got it from my brother who passed away April 2nd. He was a diesel mechanic.
Fleet Owner
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Sorry for your loss.
IMO there are only two HPOP's to consider - DieselSite and CNCFab. I know the HPOP isn't cheap, but if the engine is being worked on that deep anyway, it sounds like the right time.
IMO, the wiring issues that the 5.0L engine suffered from came from several sources:
The IPR is a toss up. With so few miles on it, I would tend to say just keep it.
Has the screen under the oil cooler been inspected or replaced? That is another thing to consider (there is an upgrade to that also).
Glad the heads are o-ringed!!!
It would be good to know what shop is doing the work!!
Lastly, I believe that upgrading the original FICMs (at CircuitBoardMedics or FICMRepair.com) will give you better reliability than buying a new one (and it is cheaper). You went another direction and I hope it works well for you. What happened to the original FICM, did you keep it?
I will put another plug in for the installation of a fuel pressure gauge - EVERYONE needs it!
Hopefully the EGR cooler was from BulletProofDiesel!!! It is the ONLY one I would trust for 2004.5+.
MAKE SURE to charge the batteries and then individually load test them. These engines need good power supply!!! Lots of people upgrade alternators also. Something to consider when you get enough funds.
IMO there are only two HPOP's to consider - DieselSite and CNCFab. I know the HPOP isn't cheap, but if the engine is being worked on that deep anyway, it sounds like the right time.
IMO, the wiring issues that the 5.0L engine suffered from came from several sources:
- rubs and stress from routing issues
- excessive engine heat
The IPR is a toss up. With so few miles on it, I would tend to say just keep it.
Has the screen under the oil cooler been inspected or replaced? That is another thing to consider (there is an upgrade to that also).
Glad the heads are o-ringed!!!
It would be good to know what shop is doing the work!!
Lastly, I believe that upgrading the original FICMs (at CircuitBoardMedics or FICMRepair.com) will give you better reliability than buying a new one (and it is cheaper). You went another direction and I hope it works well for you. What happened to the original FICM, did you keep it?
I will put another plug in for the installation of a fuel pressure gauge - EVERYONE needs it!
Hopefully the EGR cooler was from BulletProofDiesel!!! It is the ONLY one I would trust for 2004.5+.
MAKE SURE to charge the batteries and then individually load test them. These engines need good power supply!!! Lots of people upgrade alternators also. Something to consider when you get enough funds.
Last edited by bismic; May 24, 2026 at 09:11 AM.