That would definately be a big vacuum leak. Is it where it connects to the lower manifold, or where something else attaches to it.

If it was maybe you could just plug it, or have it welded up? Sounds like you may need a new manifold. I guess you could try putting some duct tape over it.. only to test if it slows down your idle.

Almost all the aluminum pieces are torque spec'd at 12-15ftlbs, which isn't very much. Just barely snug really.

Back to the oil, how overfull did you think the oil might be? I think Stepman was saying the pcv could suck oil into the intake if it's overfilled or the pcv is not filtering. If you take the vac tube off the pvc and it quits smoking that's it. (plug the tube though, not that it will matter right now)

Oil pressure, Not sure, until it idles smooth, about the best you can do is make sure its clean, and to the right level. Did you take off the oil pan? If not you don't want to now, it's a pain.

 

it broke off at an angle sloping down and in on the corner so i put some RTV on the bottom and some gorilla glue on the rough part and clamped in place hoping it will set up fairly well overnight.
in the morning if it seems like its 80% gelled, I'll pull the PCV line off the intake and cap it with something and see what happens (looking for oil in the hose first...).
im pretty sure that i put the right amount of oil in. it is kinda hard to figure that last .6 of a quart. i'll check the dipstick in the morning after its been sitting overnight and see what the level is. didnt remove the oil pan on this one. did on the previous engine to clean out the 2" of sludge in the bottom. was tempted to do the same thing on this one but due to time constraints, opted not to. will do at a later time i guess.
any other ideas?
hukd

 

I've used jb weld for a couple things, it works pretty good. The only thing i'd be worried about is if the bolt hole broke off, will the intake have enough clamping force to hold it down. I hope it works.

Good idea to look for oil in the hose. Mine takes 5, 6 with the the filter. I don't think oil is so picky to matter a lot for half a quart, the tranny is though.

I took mine off to replace the oil pan gasket when doing a timing cover. Big pain without pulling the engine. I ended up dropping the pan, and oil pump, into the pan, reaching in to clean it out, and reassemblying it without ever getting the pan all the way clear. Getting the oil pump shaft lined back up was a pain.

It sounds like your almost done though.

 

The PCV could suck oil but, my main concern was to slow down the air flow to see if you could get the idle down to a reasonable level. Check out those sensors as they could also affect your idle. ( TPS and ACT)

 

the glue job held up good so far. and it made a small difference but instead of a 747, now its more like a good turboprop. the oil level looks fine when cold. a little dark now (it was fresh oil when i cranked it) but the level is still ok. im pretty sure im getting some burnt oil somewhere as i can smell it.
#1: can a low tranny/torque converter cause any problems (ie weight difference) that would cause it to idle fast? when in the process of putting the engine in, the tranny dipstick tube came out and it gushed a good bit of fluid. trying to refill it as it runs but being real conservative as to not overfill.
#2: is there an actual way to test the TPS and ACT without just putting a new one on all together?
#3: there was no oil in the PCV hose.
#4: capping that line (and capping the nozzle on the back of the intake) didnt make any difference. removing the PCV didnt make any diff. either.
#5: all vac lines are in place.
#6: could a bad gasket (or bad seal) around the lower intake cause the problem?
#7: ive played with the timing a little bit and it really doesnt make any diff. either. it moves just enough either way to make it run rough. so i think ive got that in the acceptable range.
hukd

 

new thought: what about the oxygen sensor. if thats bad, wouldnt it cause it to run like this? and does anyone know if its supposed to be a 1-wire or a mult-wire sensor for an 86 302FI....
hukd

 

come to think of it, i used the 86 exh. man's on this 89 linc. engine. could there be a port and/or flow rate difference thats causing some backup?

 

#1-No
#2-Yes
#3-Good
#4-O.K., this probably indicates that you DON'T have a vacuum leak.
#5-Same as #4
#6-Yes
#7-Timing sounds like you are fairly close. Won't make a big difference to idle.

New thought...No, it would cause the idle to surge and smell like sulfer. You aren't getting a code for O2 so I wouldn't worry about that at this time.

Will look for TPS test.

 

Try this....

http://www.ford-truck.com/forums/sho...light=TPS+test

 

1) No, tranny fluid would not change idle speed.

2) TPS, yes At idle the TPS centerwire should reads .95 volts and progresses to around 4.6 at WOT.
ACT, I'm sure there is, but I don't know it.

6) Yeah, that would be a vacuum leak too. Any of the intake gaskets could do it. If it is sucking in air, you can spray something like starter fluid, or carb cleaner, or an unlit propane torch and it should change the engine speed. It sounds like vacuum is still your problem, based on the symptoms.

7) you will feel the differance when you drive. The range is pretty wide for idling, but to get the powerband right it has to be pretty right on. Otherwise you will get pinging at part or WOT, and that will cut your engine life way down. Don't sweat it till it's rolling.

I can't help with the port question. I would expect them to be the same, but I'm sure there are people here that know. They say the 302 parts are really interchangable.



The O2 sensor doesn't come into play until it's warm, I've never heard of it causing high rpm.

 

Here's something interesting from another thread on idle problems.

Link to Idle troubleshooting thread from post #30.

 

i wasnt really sure on the procedure for testing that TPS but heres what i did/found:
grounding the blk probe on the neg. terminal and placed the red probe in the orange wire (middle wire). with the meter set on 50 DC V, it read (and this is where im not sure what scale to use) either 12V or 2V. an thats with the key on and the engine not running. just before i came in, i cranked it once more and it did sound like its coming down a little but not enough to amount to much. i think i read something about the fan clutch somewhere. would that have anything to do with it? you can wobble the actual fan (by wobble i mean when you grab a blade and shake it, the whole clutch assembly/blades wobble). is that a bad thing? i will say that mounting the TPS UNDER the TB is not a real convienent idea!!! kinda hard to test that way and even more of a hassle to remove it....especially when i had a dang good seal on that TB to the upper intake.
thoughts?
hukd

 

one more thing:
while i had the TB off, i played around with the IAC a little. i scraped a little junk out of it but didnt actually clean it. and i let the idle adjustment screw out so that the blades were at there most closed position when the throttle cable was laxed all the way.
hukd

 

are we ruling out a vac leak due to the results posted above from my PCV deal? or are we looking for one elsewhere?
hukd

 

The fan blades sound scary. they shouldn't wobble, they can spin, but not wobble. Be sure not to stand in line with them when the motor is on in case it comes apart. I would try making sure all the bolts are tight to the water pump. Which part seems wobbly, the whole thing, pulley and all, or just the fan part where it connects to the pulley? That wouldn't cause an idle speed problem though. Just tear up the water pump probably, and your hood if that thing comes apart.

We eliminated the PCV, but not all vacuum leaks. You must still be leaking somewhere. Do you have a propane torch around?

Try using a different scale for the TPS, it should be just under 1 volt, so if you have a 5 or 2 volt scale, that will work better. The closest to 1 volt you can get. It should be .95 volts, anything more is too much and you will need to adjust it.