Timing Issues - 302
when you say no throttle control are you meaning that there is no response in the acclerator? there is that much.
its sat there a while. prolly a total of 6-8 weeks....W.C.S.! i put about 5 gal. of fresh gas in it but im sure what little was there was long since bad by that time. (gas ga. hasnt worked in that truck since i got it........recurring theme here: its a piece!!)
i'll go check my vac lines and my map sensor. and i'll try letting it idle for a while and see what happens. it just puts me on edge to think that im this close and it could blow something....
hukd
its sat there a while. prolly a total of 6-8 weeks....W.C.S.! i put about 5 gal. of fresh gas in it but im sure what little was there was long since bad by that time. (gas ga. hasnt worked in that truck since i got it........recurring theme here: its a piece!!)
i'll go check my vac lines and my map sensor. and i'll try letting it idle for a while and see what happens. it just puts me on edge to think that im this close and it could blow something....
hukd
still getting the same 4 codes i got when the comp was up and running. recap:
ECT sensor signal voltage out of range
TPS sensor voltage out of ST spec
ACT sensor or Vane Air Temp sensor voltage out of spec
EGR valve pos. sensor or Pressure Feedback Sensor voltage below min spec.
nothing else at this point
ECT sensor signal voltage out of range
TPS sensor voltage out of ST spec
ACT sensor or Vane Air Temp sensor voltage out of spec
EGR valve pos. sensor or Pressure Feedback Sensor voltage below min spec.
nothing else at this point
I agree. You don't want to drive it just yet. At least not until you can get it to idle.First thing to do is fill the radiator and let it warm up. Check oil level, let it run while checking for leaks and what-not. This is a good time to go over it and make sure nothing is hanging where it may get burnt. Let it sit and run and watch it. If the idle won't come down than I would say you either have a vacuum leak or a stuck idle control motor. After it runs for a while, pull the codes to see what it has.
On edit:man, you guys are too fast for me.
On edit:man, you guys are too fast for me.
Your ECT code is because it doesn't have any coolant and it isn't at operating temp.
TPS..I would look at that one next. If it thinks you got your foot 1/2 way to the floor, it may be wanting to add fuel.
Act might be worth checking too. (I'm not too familiar with location of that one though)
TPS..I would look at that one next. If it thinks you got your foot 1/2 way to the floor, it may be wanting to add fuel.
Act might be worth checking too. (I'm not too familiar with location of that one though)
If it's only about 1000 to 1500 rpm it should be fine to let warm up. Not having a tach makes it hard. Put water in before warming up though, otherwise you could warp something, and burn out the water pump.
How Bad does it sound compared to goosing the gas? You'll have to decide if it sounds train wreck fast, or just part throttle fast. If it's only a little fast you can come back to it, after warming up. The idle air mixture is not supposed to be adjusted. Have you reinstalled the Air intake tubing and valve cover hoses?
Double check all the wiring harnesses connected? About the only sensor not showing from the intake area is the IAC. A lot of codes will clear just from warming up though. (crosses fingers)
How Bad does it sound compared to goosing the gas? You'll have to decide if it sounds train wreck fast, or just part throttle fast. If it's only a little fast you can come back to it, after warming up. The idle air mixture is not supposed to be adjusted. Have you reinstalled the Air intake tubing and valve cover hoses?
Double check all the wiring harnesses connected? About the only sensor not showing from the intake area is the IAC. A lot of codes will clear just from warming up though. (crosses fingers)
we're talking 747 winding up taxi-ing down the runway fast. its gotta be at least 3K or more at idle (id bet closer to 4.5K....but thats just me guessing)
and i really dont know why that oil pressure gauge is dropping like that. makes me think that what i smell is oil burning (that would explain the white smoke) and im hemmorhaging oil somewhere.
i put 3.5 gal of water in the radiator so its got something. needs more but its not running dry either.
and i really dont know why that oil pressure gauge is dropping like that. makes me think that what i smell is oil burning (that would explain the white smoke) and im hemmorhaging oil somewhere.
i put 3.5 gal of water in the radiator so its got something. needs more but its not running dry either.
no, the hoses for air intake are off. didnt think that it would make a difference as long as no trash or dust went flying in. the only valve cover hose is the one running from the PCV to the upper air intake (on the back....keeping in mind i have that god-aweful "waterfall" looking upper air intake manifold). other than that, i have an oil cap hole with no pressure hole...just solid cap.
hukd
hukd
its hard to tell the color but best guess estimation, fluffy white smoke. (makes me think water boiling). but with the oil pressure dropping down near nil, makes me think that its burning oil somewhere too. it does have a tinge of an oil scent but not like someone just lit a gallon on fire or burnt all four tires.
hukd
hukd
3000 rpm is way too fast to drive, not too fast to run though. Have you tried tapping the throttle, the way you would to kick down a carbed engine?
What about the vacuum hose to the power brake booster? I almost missed that one. Otherwise, you could try spraying starter fluid at your intake gaskets and listen for the rpm to kick up, if it does, you found a leak. I've seen it posted that a couple feet of rubber hose with a funnel on one end to listen, can help too.
How does the oil level look, is it lower? If it's burning in fluffy clouds it won't last too long. If it stays steady, it can't be oil. Oil reeks, haven't you ever been behind "that car", and just wanted to put on a gas mask. Sounds more like a bad fuel/air mixture.
What about the vacuum hose to the power brake booster? I almost missed that one. Otherwise, you could try spraying starter fluid at your intake gaskets and listen for the rpm to kick up, if it does, you found a leak. I've seen it posted that a couple feet of rubber hose with a funnel on one end to listen, can help too.
How does the oil level look, is it lower? If it's burning in fluffy clouds it won't last too long. If it stays steady, it can't be oil. Oil reeks, haven't you ever been behind "that car", and just wanted to put on a gas mask. Sounds more like a bad fuel/air mixture.
Last edited by clstrfbc; Jan 31, 2005 at 02:43 PM.
nope, sorry guys.....no such luck yet. actually i was out at a job interview.....Chevy/Cadillac dealer.....yeah i know, i know....just think of it as infiltrating the enemy's lines. anything to undermine the enemy you know....
anyway, i havent had much more of a chance to do anything since i last posted. however, i did find that tapping the gas didnt do anything but make it take off more. and i did find that the back corner of the upper intake -- where a bolt goes down thru -- was broken off creating a half inch size hole for air. im thinking that maybe this is creating the problem. could i be correct?
second and just as important, what about the oil pressure? is that due to the idle problem or is that a second problem that i need to address at the same time?
hukd
anyway, i havent had much more of a chance to do anything since i last posted. however, i did find that tapping the gas didnt do anything but make it take off more. and i did find that the back corner of the upper intake -- where a bolt goes down thru -- was broken off creating a half inch size hole for air. im thinking that maybe this is creating the problem. could i be correct?
second and just as important, what about the oil pressure? is that due to the idle problem or is that a second problem that i need to address at the same time?
hukd
Last edited by hukdonquack; Jan 31, 2005 at 07:32 PM. Reason: wrong word


