The only firing order that Ford changed is on the 302HO, which is the same firing order as the 351w. From what I gather from huk is he has a standard 302 which is the same firing order as his 86' 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.
Thanks greystreak I've been seaching for those wiring diagrams in my messy garage, but couldn't find them. As for the ground issue, i know a ground is a ground, I was thinking maybe he disconnected during the install and forgot to hook it back up. For all I know the 86 has a different location for the ground on the PCM. Just in case you still wanted to see it huk here is where mine is grounded....



Greystreak, have you ever heard a PCM scratching noise like he is refering to?
Well guy I hope this plethura of info is helping you out.

 

man, i feel the love!

thanks guys. here's whats on my mind at this point:

1) contrary to the idiots at all the parts stores in a 30 mile radius think, this truck DOES have an inertia switch(aka fuel pump cut-off switch)!!!! Ford wants like $50 -- still choking on that one! i thought that the button sat on a spring loaded deal at all times and you just depress it to reset it. evidently not. if its popped up, and wont stay down, its blown. dont know how this happened, but would explain why I hd to run a constant feed to the normal wiring harness to make the pumps come on.
2) the 2 wires for the PCM in the picture look as though they're running through the grill framework and coming out in front of the battery. I'll do some checking for that and make sure they're not stuck down inside somewhere.
3) if they're not to be found, what should I do at that point?
4) the PCM is mounted under the dash, yadda yadda yadda....any ideas on how to remove it from the vertical bracket? my hands/driver dont fit in that tiny hole.
5) got my hands on a code reader and going to see what I can make of that in the morning (friday). will let you in on that if anything pops up.
6) im familiar with the wiring diagrams for the injectors. #37 & 57 are red wires running power to all injectors. #58 is tan/lt. grn and to injectors 1,4,5,8. #59 is tan/red and to injectors 2,3,6,7. it says that ground wires for the ECM are #60 & 40 which are blk/lt. grn. will check into #39... as for the pin numbers, im guessing you just count down the holes until you reach the # you want, correct?
7) no noid light as of yet. as for the "scratching" noise i was talking about, heres the low-down on that: with a check light grounded on the neg. terminal, when touching the injector pins (on the actual injector), it lights up AND you can hear a rough what I call scratching noise like when you rub your face after not shaving for a couple of days. I was under the impression that this meant it was working...both the light and the noise. but i do have my reservations about that noise.
8) in the harness (btw, I used the original harness from my 86.) for the injectors, there are 3 connections that attach to the intake. at the rear (biggest connection) it is a 4-wire connection. however, there is a 5th wire, orange, that looks like it needs to go somewhere. does this mean anything to anyone? i cant seem to locate it on my diagrams.

dave be looking for an email from me containing diagrams.
thanks guys! im still holding out hope that this thing will run again so I can actually start looking for a job...

 

ok, fellas!
since I know people call the same thing by different names, is the PCM and ECC/ECM the same thing? I dont see anything about a PCM in any of my books/cds. but there is an engine control computer/module. lets clarify...

 

ok, answered my own question about the PCM. yes, they're the same thing...PCM is the new name since the computer controls the engine & tranny.
Im looking at diagrams for the ECC relay. it shows to be next to the fuel pump relay which was under the hood on the driver side. however, there is only the FP relay. any ideas?

 

no wires to be found for grounding the PCM. used an Actron CP9015 code reader to check for anything that might pop up this morning. nothing doing. the STO (self test output voltage from the comp) is low. whatever this means.

 

How is your battery voltage? Is it still up? Don't mean to sound dumb hear but, I don't remember reading anything about having spark. Am I wrong, and are we sure we have spark? I ask because of the misconception above of how the fuel pump should work. When you turn the key on, you should hear the pump run for about 2 seconds. This is a TIMED event done by the EEC. It doesn't know (or care) if you have pressure at this time. (This is why after changing a filter, you should "cycle" the key a few times to build up your pressure).....Now, the reason I ask about spark is the next step. When you turn the key to start you should get spark and at the same time, the computer should recieve a signal (from the module) that the motor is turning over. This is the computers que to fire the injectors. Without this sig, no injectors.

This thing about the oil sender is wrong. What it is supposed to do is shut down the pump if you lose oil press. It never seems to work that way though as it will revert back to running thru the relay if the pressure is lost.

One more note is that once the engine is running, the pump should run all the time. It's up to the pressure regulator to control the pressure.

O.K., I lied, I also believe that the "scratching" that you are hearing may be your EEC relay. It should be near the computer.

 

yeah, i have spark. i know this because it kindly "reached out and touched me" more than once while checking just that. (you see, i have to arc the solenoid a) because I cant hold the wire/plug and watch it while turning the key; & b) the cam in the column that cranks the engine when you turn the key on is broken so I have to start the thing by using pliers to push the rod above the column in.)

I was able to retrieve my computer from under my dash...only after dismantling half of the trim pieces along the way....now, if i can only find all the screws.
technical note: for those that dont know it, if you're computer is an E6TF-12A650-X1A, the parts stores have it listed as an -XA. for some reason they drop the 1. same comp though.

**if you're ever looking for a inertia switch (aka fuel cut-off switch), no part store has it. strictly dealer-item-only**

should i replace the EEC relay with the computer? does it look like a skinny, single row of pins (2 pieces, too), mounted with the computer? ive got the wiring colors but there are many things that have the same combo.

back to the nagging question that never goes away: when i put a new comp in, should i be worried about blowing it if I cant locate those 2 ground wires? I am absolutely sure that there are no wires available to be grounded anywhere. I cant afford to keep blowing comps.

and is anyone aware of what the completely orange wire in the same bundle as the sensors/power source bundle to the injectors might be? its got a bare end and im sure that needs to be tied down to something. just dont know what it is.

again, if this thing was a horse, id shot it by now....

 

Greystreak is much more knowledgable in the wiring of fuel injectors than I am. My suggestion is to send him a private e-mail and ask him if he knows or hopefully he will come on this thread again and answer it for you.

Did you have the parts store test you PCM before you bought the new one?
As far as the ground goes on the PCM, if its not hooked up I don't believe it will fry it, it just won't fire up. More than likely your grounds are hooked up if all you did was replace the motor. There would have been no reason for you to disconnect them. The only reason I had you check them was my neighbor had the same problem as you, he had spark, fuel and no fuel coming out of his injectors and found that the ground wire was corroded and when he fixed it, the problem went away.

 

EEC relay should look very similar to fuel pump relay. Different color I think. I'm still thinking on the rest of it. Hate to see you just start throwing money at it as I don't really see too many Ford computers go bad. (not to say they don't) I think your EEC relay has a lot to do with your problem. I'll see if I can dig up a diagram with actual wire colors on it.

That orange wire you keep talking about seems familiar for some reason but, I can't think of why yet.

 

no, havent bought the new pcm yet, but will get it checked if someone in town can do it. as much as i hate "the zone", they're prolly the one's that will come closest to being able.

ok, here are the color codes for the EEC relay according to Chilton's (which I've already discovered a few misprints already, but who's counting?!?!):

wht/blk -- ign. switch
blk -- ground
red -- pin #37(diagram's hard to read) & injectors ( )
ylw -- pin #1 & fusible link that stays hot.

i'll look into a relay for the EEC as Im sure thats the cheaper route right now. course, i'll kick myself for all the headache and time in getting the PCM out if thats what it is. but its never that simple either.

if the EEC relay were bad, would that cause my computer to go on the blink and not throw codes, not be responsive, etc.? Course, I guess thats a dumb question if it works like any other relay.... and if it were that, would that explain that 'scratching' noise?

get back to me on that orange wire. i'll keep looking at my diagrams.

 

i replaced the PCM relay. to the best of my knowledge, nothing changed. still couldnt retrieve codes. the "self test output" light stayed on...which I think means that theres between 0-5V coming out of the comp. so, would you all agree that this leaves me with the comp being bad? anymore ideas on that orange wire? I'm going to try to trace my comp wires and locate some grounds. ideas welcome.

 

Haven't found souce of orange wire yet? The only Orange wire I can find is for the HEGO ground.

 

HEGO being what?
Does my conclusion about the PCM sound correct?

 

HEGO meaning O2 sensor. Yes, it is looking like the PCM is bad but, at this point, that is just an educated guess. I don't know of anyone that can test them. Sometimes that is the way these have to be fixed though, you eliminate everything else and take your best possible guess with what's left. ( I'd just hate to be wrong)

 

This is getting to be a long thread and I may have missed it but did we check all of the fusible links to make sure they were good? Those are the wires coming off the solinoid.