The SPOUT on your truck is by the distributor - it should be coming out of the wiring harness along with the plug for the TFI ignition module on the distributor. You have no decel throttle kicker on your EFI truck...if you do it's news to me.

 

As long as the idle is right, you should be able to adjust without disconnecting things. You don't need to anyways as you cannot use a light to time it and have to just go by ear. Your spout will be a small box looking plug in a wire. It's only like 1/2" in size. If you find it, unplug it and "retard" your timing until it starts to run rough, then advance it until it just smooths out plus a hair more. Plug the spout back in. Make a mark somehow on the base of the dist. This will be your starting point. Leave the dist loose enough that you can turn it by hand. Go out and drive around, stopping every now and then and advance the timing a little at a time until it pings when you gas it (loaded). Back the timing off now just enough to where the ping goes away. This will be the optimum timing.

 

sweet! gotcha! out and about....
hukd

 

Congrats Hukd,
It helps a lot to be able to drive, even if your still working on it!

You may also need to readjust your idle speed screw on the TB that you adjusted before. Once it's warm, you unplug the IAC wire, and then adjust the screw so that the idle is steady, but just a hair lower than you would like it. The IAC is supposed to raise it just a hair once it's plugged in.

That's the general Idea anyway.

 

put new O2 sensor in....made things a little smoother i think...will know more once im down the road again.
is it normal to have 2 cat's? theres the one at the collection of the 2 man's then not 12" back theres an identical part.....both with Ford numbers on them. right behind the 2nd one, there's been a weld job....thinking someone took the OE muffler out. what do y'all think?
undid the little square spout deal....then found the label on the grill mount that describes the process....right in front of me and still didnt see it all this time. think ive got it squared away.
you know....if this was another one of my ASE tests, im not sure whether id be a failure or an expert at this point....
hukd

 

one other thing.
when i turn the key on, the oil pressure ga. goes all the way up and settles in the high end of the normal range. but when i crank it, it goes all the way down to the lowest low mark and stays there. occassionally it will go up and hit that same high mark and lodge there (i can see it snap at that point) but eventually comes back down. do you guys still think that my oil sender deal is bad? got one just havent replaced it yet pending confirmation of your thoughts.
hukd

 

Yes, I still think it's bad. I thought that when you turn the key on, it's supposed to go to the LOW side til it's running.

 

Sounds fishy to me.
Speaking of oil, have you rechecked your oil for water since you changed it? How's it look?

 

the oil looks ok. the new gaskets worked!
i'll go ahead and change the oil pressure thingamadoochie after getting the new muffler job finished up tomorrow.
hukd

 

everything seems to be ok. the tranny is a little shaky in downshifting. do you guys know if there's a modulator on this yr for the tranny? (1986)
now ive got just a few lingering non-life-threatening electrical problems such as tail lights and rt side marker lamp staying on, getting the rear window to roll down, etc.
thanks for all your help! we be rollin'!
hukd

 

Cool... How'd that oil press gauge work out?

 

Sweet, Congrats Hukd!!

 

typical saturday on the dairy farm....
started to get to that oil pressure sensor deal literally 7 times today and kept getting pulled away for one reason or another. did get the new muffler put on...90% anyway.
maybe i'll get to that deal tomorrow.
also, the switch on the air panel to control the back window is shorted or out somewhere. but when i access the panel on the tailgate and put juice to the motor, it works. when i drop the gate and try putting juice to the 3 wires running into the gate from the back quarter panel, nothing happens. thinking the key switch on the outside is bad. what do you guys think? (dont have the key to work the actual switch so im kinda guessing here.)
hukd

 

Congradulations Hukd' you posting has received the 5 star rating for replies. As for the tailgate issue, the bronco tailgate window will not operate with the gate open. Only when its closed, saftey issue I guess. Do you have a Chiltons manual strictly for Broncos?

 

ive got a chilton's cd rom that covers all trucks/broncos 1976-2000. it tells me how to disassemble the gate/window. didnt find anything about wiring diagrams for it. not even on the overall schematic diagram. cant really get to the wires when the gates shut and I thought about it not working while the gates down after the fact. theres got to be a way to get to those wires from the inside panel....maybe.
5-star rating huh? dont know what to make of that....
any thought about a tranny modulator??? a/t's have one that kicks the gears up and down right? on a vac? **knew i shoulda paid more attention during those ASE quizzes***
hukd