no, we have not checked (deliberately through this forum discussion) the fusible links at the solenoid. There are 2 or 3 there, I cant remember which. I havent thought to actually check those since everything seems to have power. I'll look into that as well. do you know what these wires should be leading to -- off the top of your head?

i know what you mean about being wrong about the computer. 1) its too much money to be wrong, & 2)my perfectionist attitude/ego would be somewhat damaged.

as for the HEGO, theres an O2 sensor on the passenger side manifold but theres a green spade connection that links that up. the orange wire is on the left (driver) intake bank.

 

One of those links will be for the ignition, one for the fuse box, and one for the PCM. Can't remember if there are more.

The O2 ground will be seperate from the switch wiring. It's a ground tat comes from the PCM. It's so the computer can ground that circuit and it is by itself because for some reason, it needs to be that way. (better ground?) I woundn't ground it though until you power things up and make sure it isn't supposed to supply power somewhere.

 

according to my schematics, the HEGO sensor has a black ground, gry/ylw that goes to the ignition switch, and a grn/ppl that goes to pin #29 in the PCM.

I traced every single wire coming out of the connection that goes into the bottom of the PCM. I was primarily looking for the blk and blk/wht wires that we were discussing earlier in the thread that ground the PCM. There are 3 blk/wht wires, 2 blk. All go to one of 4 connections(behind a plastic shield situated behind the battery) or fusible links @ the solenoid. Everything else is accounted for. There is one of those wires that goes to an empty, capped off 4 prong plug but I know that one isnt used for anything.

Ideas?

You lost me on that O2 sensor wiring....

hukd

 

So you found the ground wires for the PCM? Great! are they grounded properly?
I couldn't trace my orange wire because its all wraped in my loom, but I did find it on and open end of the loom right before the injectors. I believe it has something to do with the injectors, just don't know the proper connections.

 

I see the wire you are talking about that goes to pin 29 and believe that is for the heated part of the O2. If you have a meter to check for continuity, check that orange wire from the end of it to pin 49. It's a black wire where it grounds but changes to the orange and goes there.(pin 49)

 

nope, didnt find the wires to ground the PCM......ARRRRGGGGHHH!!!! i traced every single wire in my harnesses last night and every one of them is accounted for in another connection of sorts.

the orange wire must be a ground or something. thats my thinking. but tell me if you think otherwise.

the grn/ppl wire going from the harness to the O2 sensor should be ok. but i'll check it. dont know that it would keep the PCM from working rather just not pick up the sensor is the wire was out. correct?

 

without having pulled the wire thru the firewall, the "orange" wire looks to be orange all the way thru....or at least as far as I can see it.

brief recap:
1) replaced fuel pump relay
2) checked wiring for black & black/white wires for PCM ground. nothing there
3) wiring diagram says that theres a blk/lt grn wire coming from pin 40 linking with pin 60 (same color) and thats the ground. (I think its the ground b/c it has three lines shaped like a sideways pyramid)
4) thats the only direct ground the dia. shows.
5) inertia switch is reset but fuel pumps dont activate without direct power
source which doesnt help the problem b/c they dont shut off allowing for
pressure buildup.
6) injectors still dont open.
7) when using an Actron CP9015 Ford code reader, the STO (self test output) light stays lit constantly which by the book means that the voltage coming out of the computer is less that 5V. does this mean anything to anyone with an actual shop manual?

these are the problems. need to determine today if the computer is to blame and what needs to be replaced to fix the problem.

 

the grn/ppl wire going from the harness to the O2 sensor should be ok. but i'll check it. dont know that it would keep the PCM from working rather just not pick up the sensor is the wire was out. correct?


without having pulled the wire thru the firewall, the "orange" wire looks to be orange all the way thru....or at least as far as I can see it.

The grn/ppl wire should be O.K., I wouldn't worry about that one. Does the orange wire appear to origonate at pin 49 of the PCM? Does the orange wire have any type of connector on the end or is it just cut. I believe that this is a main PCM ground. What I would do...Ground the orange wire and see if anything changes .....Then...1) Get a meter and make sure you have 12v at the BK/O wire of the EEC relay.2) make sure you have 12v at the R/LG wire of the same relay when you turn the key on and the relay "clicks". 3) If this is O.K., check for 12v at pins 37 and 57 of the PCM. 4) If you have all that, look for 12v at the red wire of the inertia switch. 5) If still O.K. then look for 12v on the R/BK wire of the fuel pump relay. 6) If you get this far make sure that the F.P. relay "clicks" when you turn the key on. (turn key off and then back on for step 6)...7)check for 12v at the T/LG wire of the data link and at pin22 of PCM. ....If you make it thru all that with the correct results, I would change the computer.

 

The orange pin is just cut. I am not sure about its origination at pin 49 because I do not know where to begin counting in the 3 rows of pinholes.

Inertia switch wires are 2 yellow wires... maybe these were (re)wired in later. I will have to figure out which one is the hot wire.

 

The pin count is pretty easy. You have 3 rows...1-20, 21-40, 41-60. If you look closely at the connector, it is marked. Really, it is. It's hard to see but, 49 will be a pin in the center row next to the bolt.

You can still use the steps I outlined, just check both sides of inertia switch. Should be power on both anyways.

 

ive got a new computer on its way as we speak. should be here at 0800 tomorrow morning.
i'll check the pins and see. does yours have a little black (or whatever color) cover thats held on by the bolt that seems to serve the only purpose of holding the wires down? whats the easiest way to remove that? remove the seemingly neverending bolt?!
im semi-worried about that inertia switch....the wires are a heavier gauge than any of the others and definitely a different color than designated which makes me think that there was a re-wire job done at some point...
is this normal: two yellow wires into a pigtail that plug into the bottom of the switch, then (...i think...) split off in different directions?
also, when i connect the battery cables.... when i connect the positive (after the neg. cable is in place), i hear a clicking sound coming from my coil (or alternator since they're mounted very close) and then one from my distributor. whats this? this is secondary to the existing problem....
OHHHHH!!! grounding the "orange" wire didnt help a thing. but thats not to say that it wont if the comp's shot anyway.
noticed that my spark quality was way down, almost non-existant, but im attributing that to battery quality since its been setting up for a while now.
im hoping to put that new comp on & check the voltage all tomorrow morning.

hukd

 

I don't actually have one. (I do this for a living) The black cover should have small tabs down the sides that are used to "lock" the cover in place. That is basically what it does is protect the wires.

The inertia switch wiring may be normal. I would check that circuit for voltage before I worried about it.

Your clicking has got me. Can't think of what that would be other than a relay in the area but, can't think of any of those. Did this occur before you grounded the orange wire?Either way, it sounds like the ignition is on.

One more note on battery cables...the neg should always be un-hooked first and reconnected last. This way if you slip and short it out, nothing will happen.If you short the neg you are already on a ground so.....and if you short the pos, the ground isn't hooked-up so....nothing can happen. You only need to have a good short once or twice and you start to remember that.

 

yeah, my ignition is working! just hope that the weak spark isnt another developing problem...
good advice on the battery connections. I usually try to make a point of doing that, however, i've gotten somewhat lazy since i have to connect and reconnect the battery in testing so much. course, i better start doing it right when i get this new computer just to be safe!!!

hukd

 

well, the new computer didnt change anything as far as I can tell...
the fuel pump still doesnt run unless I have a direct hot feed into my wires going to my inertia switch. Im going to try to run down a volt meter and check all the wires sometime today.
on my fuel rail...there are two fuel lines coming into the rear of it. One from the fuel filter and the other from what I believe is the high pressure pump mounted on the frame. if not that, then from the black canister mounted along the same side. Is one of these the return line and if so, is there something that should limit the amount of return so I dont have free flow all the time?
is a short possible at this point preventing the fuel pump from working?

 

The pump, black box, and filter should all be in the supply line. The return should run right back to the tank. There is a pressure regulator,in the rail, with a vacuum line attached to it that limits flow (raising pressure). I don't know about short. (don't think so) We will have to run a meter thru what I outlined earlier to find out what's going on.