Here are today's findings:

1) the injectors read (found this before reading your post) 14.3-14.7 with the Ohm meter.
2) using a test light grounded on the neg. battery post/terminal, when connected to the injector, you can hear a "scratchin" sound behind the firewall close to where the PCM is located I believe. This tells me that the injector is good. (only tried the #1 injector) Would you concur?
3) called the local Ford dealership and told the service guy that "my fuel pump runs constantly after replacing this engine. I can hear it running through the rails and when I press the release valve, it shoots out but it doesn't seem to have 45psi as it doesn't shoot out far enough. would the pressure regulator being open constantly cause this?" he said that the #1 thing they would check would be the pumps. But since they're running and there's fuel in the rail, they're probably ok. and yes, if the regulator was good it would constantly run through the rails and not let it build enough pressure to get to 45psi, close but not enough.

So, in light of this, I believe I'll change out that regulator and see what happens. At the same time, I'll check my grounds across the board to make sure they're all kosher.

Ur thoughts....

 

what would be connected to the ground line at the battery? I cant remember if there was originally or not. seems like there might have been but it could just as easily be my imagination too. And i dont think there are any wires that havent been connected....its pretty obvious where things should go I think.

 

On my rig, were the neg cable mounts to the battery, the cable has 2 wires, on thick and one skinny. Check the skinny wire to make sure its not frayed or broken at the battery terminal, it then goes from the neg terminal to the radiator support and connects to a mount. You will see your wire harness also has a wire coming out of it that connects to this mount. Your PCM needs this connection to be good so it can be grounded. There is also a flat braided metal strap that goes from the intake mounting bolt to the firewall and there should be another that continues from the firewall to your hood. Make sure these are all good connections. If you don't have ground, no ground no PCM, no PCM nothing is gonna work right i.e. fuel pump shut off, injectors firing etc.

If the fuel pump relay was not working, the fuel pumps would not engage to my understanding. We know your getting fuel to the fuel rail, the question is how much? You still need to test your pressure to see what you got going on there.

Let me know

 

You've triggered something in my memory about that ground wire. First, Im aware of the hood ground (dont know what its for off the top of my head); the one to the intake, i fixed today, dont know what that one goes to either. Now, I remember one being to the radiator support mount. However.....(dont you hate these "however" situations?).....the negative cable is a new one and Im not sure where the old one is. Therefore, Im not sure where the wire to be mounted to the radiator is or where I should be looking in order to replace it. Any suggestions? (a faster way to get to me is also through email.)

I havent replaced the FPR, but do you think that the PCM being grounded at the radiator might be whats causing it not to build up pressure/not go through the injectors? Would that explain the test light working and the scratching noise at the PCM when we tested the injector? I feel like Im getting somewhere, I just need to get there.

Your turn....

 

The ground from the intake to the firewall allows everything that is electrical connected to the motor to have a ground. Your motor mounts have rubber in them so therefore you have no ground. It is crucial that this ground be a good one.

If your new neg cable doesn't have the auxillary wire coming off of it, go buy one that does. If you look at the radiator support, the side facing the motor, just above the passanger side headlight you will see a small connection post its about 1/2" wide and about 1 1/2" long with a post and a nut on it. Your wire harness runs right above it and a couple of wires come out of the harness and connect to this post and your small neg wire connects to this also.(at least on my rig it does)

If you put a test light on the injectors and it lights up that means the injectors have ground and should be working fine. They are probably not getting their instructions from the PCM because it is either not grounded or is fried. I'm not sure about the scratching sound, that might not be good thing. Take your PCM out and take it to Autozone or some place and have it tested. I've got a feeling that this is your problem.

 

my negative cable does have a tag end made into it. my question is what do I run to that line and then what do I run to the post at the radiator. (actually, theres not a post per say i dont think but theres a good place to bolt something down to work as a ground...) I dont think I have any other wires on the front of my engine harnesses that could be left to ground anything down. I've got the intake ground put in now. maybe that will help with the PCM problem as well. I'll do everything I can for grounding, etc. and if that doesnt help coupled with a new regulator, I'll have me PCM checked out somewhere. I just cant see what it would be fried unless trying to crank it without that intake ground did something to it.

next....

 

Take the small lead wire from your neg battery clamp and run it over to the post on the radiator support wall along with the 2 wires coming out of your harness. It looks like this...

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This is where you will find it,(sorry its the best picture I had in my computor)....

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And this is the wiring diagram for the PCM.....

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You will notice above that 2 wires come out of the PCM (bottom right corner) and go to the neg side of the battery, there you see in the diagram it shows 3 connections,2 from PCM and 1 from battery which is grounded to the frame (the thing that looks like a E sideways)
Make sure you have all this completed and if it still don't start, take the PCM in and have it tested. Or get the PCM from which the motor came out of and try it.

 

Ok, this helps. Its hard to see much of anything in that picture but I get this idea (thats a 5.0 from a car or something by the look of the intake...which is what that motor is from but i swapped out my intakes and put them on since my wiring fit all that).
#1: I have 3 loops coming from my harness on the battery side that are connected to my postive wire at the solenoid. should two of those, or maybe all three be connected to the neg. cable/frame? is that what's causing my pumps to run constantly?
#2: there are no other wires to be connected to anything now. with the exception to the wires aforementioned in #1. am i missing something?
#3: the new FPR didnt solve a thing. I finally found the pump relay after two months of endless searching and only found it by accident. There's only a slim chance that its damaged to the point that it completes the circuit continuously, correct?

volley to you!

 

#4: do you have anything that might save me some time in looking that designates what color those wires are coming out of the PCM? thanks.

jms

 

#5: in case it wasnt previously mentioned, the connection that supplies power to the pumps, inertia switch, etc. dev'd a short. I spliced it with a lead that runs through a switch. when that switch is on, would the constant power supply be the same as through the normal connection or would it cause it to run constantly?

lots o' questions I know. I hate following after a person who, obviously, didnt know what they were doing and just rigged something to work. (meaning the previous owner)

jms

 

Actually that picture is of a 5.0 conversion into a bronco II. Its the only picture I have on my computor of 5.0, if I had my digital camera I would take a pic of it to show. The answers to your questions as follows...
#1-- No! don't mess with the wires that are connected to the starter solenoid, leave those connected. Those connect to the POS terminal on the battery, we are focusing on the NEG battery post. The "thin" wire on the NEG battery post needs to be mounted to the body regardless if you have that little post like the one in your picture. I will try to get my neighbor to come over a take a shot of the hookup and post here tomarrow afternoon.
#2 No your not missing anything as long as do the above.
#3 I kind of knew that replacing the FPR wouldn't do anything for you, but at least you know it is good for a while. The fuel pump relay is located under the dash next to the steering column which is green if I'm not mistaken, but that is good if your fuel pump is cycling, so don't worry about that.
#4 don't worry about trying to trace down the wires coming out of the PCM, everything is enclosed in a wire harness.
#5 I don't have a clue, I don't have that much electronic knowledge on what the PCM actually needs. I do know that the PCM will shut the fuel pump off when it reaches the psi that is required, the turns the pumps back on when it receives a signal that there is oil pressure (once the truck is actually running)

If I had to bet the whole enchilada on a roll of the dice, My bet would be that your PCM is not functioning. Either not grounded or Fried.

As soon as I get that pic I will post it. Refresh my memory here, is this a 85 or 87 Bronco that we are working on?

 

its an 86. 89 motor, but everything electrical is still stock 86.
so, after i ground out that tag end on my neg. terminal, im still looking for three wires to attach to the terminal that im not even sure exist. sounds like i've got to do some crawling around in my engine compartment. (ever seen a 6'7 guy with is tail up in the air and head under the hood of a bronco? it aint easy!)
is that my goal for right now? to find those wires?
my harness is not exactly a harness. it looks like the last owner dug around for something and then bundled them all up in spots with electrical tape and occassionally a plastic wire "bundle". Its not really that hard to trace wires once you get past all the dirt, oil and grease.

frustrated.....

 

basically, in review, i have no wires that come directly from the PCM to the neg. terminal. and im thinking thats what i should be looking for at this point. correct?

 

Ok, at hukdonquack's request, I'm gonna jump into this dilema feet first and hope I don't hit bottom. To answer the electrical concerns most recently posted (yes, I have read this thread in its entirety). In 1986 model F-series and Bronco's the PCM has three wires that act as grounds. Pin 40, 49 and 60 are all ground wires. Pins 40 and 60 are black/lt. green wires and pin 49 is orange with possibly another orange wire running beside it and on to the O2 sensor. The location of the ground is a moot point. Ground is ground is ground just so long as its a solid connection to the negative side of the circuit. The fuel injection is "speed density" or "bank fired" so there will be three wires to the injectors (not three at each injector but three wires that supply voltage). The common power feed the Desertdave referred to is red. The left bank (driver's side) injectors are supplied ground (neg) via the tan/red wire from the PCM. The right bank (pass. side) use the tan/orange wire. Pins 58 (injectors 1-4) and 59 (injectors 5-8) from the PCM respectively. From these two wires the negative supply branches off into four individual wires, one for each injector in the respective bank. the base color for each wire is still tan.

Positive power feed to the PCM is through the red wire running to pin 5 and the yellow wire running to pin 1.

If the EEC power relay is bad no power will run to the injectors, fuel pump cutoff relay, and a host of other components in the system. The EEC power relay also sends power back to the PCM to run "key on" functions. If this little guy has failed it could be the entire source of the problem. Could also be the reason your fuel pump quit running at startup like it should.

Beyond this possibility, I would tend to agree with dave here in that you are most likely dealing with a dead PCM. Fuel delivery seems to be the only obvious dilema here and the PCM has sole rights to this function.

 

O.K. Huk...I've been reading thru this one as well as watching the "other" one that you are following and I would like to add 2 or 3 cents to turn you in another direction. Your fuel pump running constant is a sign that it is wired wrong or recieving the wrong signal. It is supposed to get a signal from the PCM and run initially for 2-3 seconds. My guess is ( you said you had it on a toggle) that it is getting constant power.

As for your not starting, definately sounds like a communication problem between the PCM and the injectors. This is a different motor that what you had so...which injector harness did you use? This matters because not only did Ford change the firing order of the 302 but, cars ( with multi-port) and trucks (with a "batch-fire" system) use a different wiring harness to the injectors.

I see other people have been posting while I have been writing( guess I'm just slow) but, I'm going to add this anyways. Have you checked your injectors with a "noid" light yet?