Timing Issues - 302
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From: peoria, az
I'm almost convinced that there is no vacuum leak and your problem lies in the TPS. The computer sends out 5v and is looking to get less than 1 back. Either way,(if you have 2 or 12) it is getting too much. You do need to be down on a smaller scale to get an accurate reading. If you are accually getting 2v out of this thing, it would explain your idle so , I would keep looking in this area.
Your fan does sound bad.Not an idle problem though.
Your fan does sound bad.Not an idle problem though.
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From: Marshall, TX
the blade/clutch assembly is the only thing that wobbles. and its not like a loose tire wobble and im not sure it does it in motion....sure not gonna stick my hand down there and see...but i just noticed that its a little loose at the clutch. that fan will turn always, right?
i filled the radiator up with water. found a couple of leaks. and when i cranked the engine, water spewed from where the lower intake meets the block/valve covers. guess thats my leak huh?
as for the TPS, here are my setting for the DC tests: 2.5, 50, 250, 1K which one would you suggest?
hukd
i filled the radiator up with water. found a couple of leaks. and when i cranked the engine, water spewed from where the lower intake meets the block/valve covers. guess thats my leak huh?
as for the TPS, here are my setting for the DC tests: 2.5, 50, 250, 1K which one would you suggest?
hukd
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From: Kansas City
2.5 for the meter, the tps should be .95 volts at idle position, It has to be between .9 and 1volt., and go to about 4.6v at wide open throttle, measure at idle first, and adjust if you have too. Then check the WOT voltage using the 50 scale.
Fan clutch.
I'll give mine a gentle tug, but I just had it off and it didn't impress me as wobbly at all. I'd be worried its gonna come apart at 3 or 4k rpm.
Yeah, it will always rotate, it grabs more once its hot.
leaks.
It sounds like you might need to pull the intake back off. That was the main reason why I tore into mine, Slowly disapearing water suspected from the intake. Turned out it was the intake, and the water pump too.
If the lower intake to head- gasket is messed up, that could be vacuum leak too. I think that gasket kit is only 15 bucks. Be sure to use the torque pattern per the manual to put it back together.
Fan clutch.
I'll give mine a gentle tug, but I just had it off and it didn't impress me as wobbly at all. I'd be worried its gonna come apart at 3 or 4k rpm.
Yeah, it will always rotate, it grabs more once its hot.
leaks.
It sounds like you might need to pull the intake back off. That was the main reason why I tore into mine, Slowly disapearing water suspected from the intake. Turned out it was the intake, and the water pump too.
If the lower intake to head- gasket is messed up, that could be vacuum leak too. I think that gasket kit is only 15 bucks. Be sure to use the torque pattern per the manual to put it back together.
Last edited by clstrfbc; Feb 1, 2005 at 05:00 PM.
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From: Marshall, TX
if im not mistaken, when i tested that prong (coming from the harness -- where the two ends connect) on 2.5, i pegged out the meter. i should check it again to be sure.
if thats the case, im gonna say its screwed. btw, how do you adjust a TPS????
hukd
if thats the case, im gonna say its screwed. btw, how do you adjust a TPS????
hukd
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From: Kansas City
There should be one that is 4.6 refference voltage on one wire, you want the middle and one of the other wires, or the dizzy for ground. I'll search real quick.
You need to back probe it while its connected to the sensor. I'll look in book in a little bit to see what it says.
You need to back probe it while its connected to the sensor. I'll look in book in a little bit to see what it says.
Last edited by clstrfbc; Feb 1, 2005 at 05:18 PM.
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From: Kansas City
According to haynes, you can loosen the screws and rotate it.
You can also test the resistance from the signal to ground wire of the sensor, with the wire disconnected it should be between 3-4kohms, when at idle, and about 350 at wot.
You can also test the resistance from the signal to ground wire of the sensor, with the wire disconnected it should be between 3-4kohms, when at idle, and about 350 at wot.
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From: Kansas City
The more resistance, the less voltage gets through, like a closed valve, so the 4.6 volts gets cut down to .95 volts by the 3-4k ohms at idle position, when the the throttle is wide open, the switch is like an open valve, the resistance is very low, (350), and lets out almost all of the reference voltage, 4.6V.
It should have a nice even movement too, if you put the meter on the scale that you can read 4k ohms, and move the throttle, you should see the needle moving with the throttle.
If the resistance is good the electronics of the TPS work, the voltage could still be off, which would be the alingment of the TPS.
It should have a nice even movement too, if you put the meter on the scale that you can read 4k ohms, and move the throttle, you should see the needle moving with the throttle.
If the resistance is good the electronics of the TPS work, the voltage could still be off, which would be the alingment of the TPS.
Last edited by clstrfbc; Feb 2, 2005 at 08:06 AM.
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From: Marshall, TX
sweet!
lm gonna pick up all my gaskets, etc. this morning and take care of that problem. While i have the upper intake/TB off, i'll check the TPS too. results to come around lunch or so.
hukd
lm gonna pick up all my gaskets, etc. this morning and take care of that problem. While i have the upper intake/TB off, i'll check the TPS too. results to come around lunch or so.
hukd
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From: Marshall, TX
TPS cant be rotated. it is where it is.
got the new gaskets put on. broke a sensor on the intake -- looking at the driver side of the intake, the sensor to the right next to injector #7. gotta find out what that is and if i can drive it without it for the time being until i get to the store to replace it.
if i wanted to install a tach, where do i hook it to the engine/tranny?
hukd
got the new gaskets put on. broke a sensor on the intake -- looking at the driver side of the intake, the sensor to the right next to injector #7. gotta find out what that is and if i can drive it without it for the time being until i get to the store to replace it.
if i wanted to install a tach, where do i hook it to the engine/tranny?
hukd
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From: Marshall, TX
ok, figured out that it was the knock sensor. add that to the shopping list....
got it out on the road for a minute this evening. after new gaskets, it idled fine. have a little backfire problem but im trying to get the timing just right. without marks its kinda hard and like shooting in the dark!!!
water pumps bad evidently so gotta get one of those, more a/f, and a thermostat.
i put some bar's radiator stop leak in my radiator this evening just in case. i think i saw some on my oil dipstick but it was kinda dark and hard to tell. in case it is, along with low oil pressure, thats indicative of bad head gaskets correct?
more to do in the morning but im feeling good about it.
hukd
got it out on the road for a minute this evening. after new gaskets, it idled fine. have a little backfire problem but im trying to get the timing just right. without marks its kinda hard and like shooting in the dark!!!
water pumps bad evidently so gotta get one of those, more a/f, and a thermostat.
i put some bar's radiator stop leak in my radiator this evening just in case. i think i saw some on my oil dipstick but it was kinda dark and hard to tell. in case it is, along with low oil pressure, thats indicative of bad head gaskets correct?
more to do in the morning but im feeling good about it.
hukd
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From: peoria, az
Progress, huh? I would say the coolant on the dipstick is from your coolant leak at the manifold. You should add change your oil to the list. May have a bad oil sender causing the low reading. How low does it go and does it make noise like it's low? Glad you kept at it, I knew we could fix this one. 
By the way, to hook up a tach, you would tap into the neg side of the coil.
By the way, to hook up a tach, you would tap into the neg side of the coil.