First question = no. For the larger injectors, you can try a recalibrated air meter, but I would rather get a chip to make the change. You should be able to do either with the FMS kit.

 

Hey Guys,
I've been following your postings with some interest. My 89 F-150 302/AOD has a new 302HO (13726548 firing order) just installed and I am about to go with the M-9000-T51 Mass Air Conv.

Regarding the SEFI harness which is set up for 15426378. Can the appropriate injector leads/plug just be re-routed to the appropriate injectors so that the fuel is sent to the proper cylinder ? Has anyone done this ? I've not had my hands on the Ford harness and have no real-world experience. The very low electrical charge to the individual injector would require an effective solder and seal , is this necessary ?

Who sells these Ford Racing kits cheapest?

Thanks Alot

 

Yes it is possible to re-wire. I haven't done it on the Ford harness, so I don't know how that is put together. You will have to swap injectors 3 and 5, and 4 and 7. The computer fires the injector by closing the circuit to ground - the other side of the injector is supplied +12V. A good soldered, waterproof connection is a must. I think Justin's (MustangGT221) mass air kit was rewired, so maybe send him a PM to see if he knows how it was done (he didn't do it himself).

 

Re-wiring was mentioned briefly above. Reference Brettddglas 7/30/2004 post#160, this page. He might be someone to PM also.

 

EPNCS and Tim

Thanks Guys

 

hope this helps with the transmission compatability problem (e40d) i have a 1996 ford e250 van has factory mass air e40d transmission a 373 gear ratio and comes factory without a smog pump. this is the computer number f6uf-12a650-kb. the only problem is for it to work rite you will need to change the solenoide block in the transmissoin to a late model e40d (95- 3-98) in 95 ford changed the transmission side of the ecm and incorporated some functions in the ecm. where the older e40d`s everything is controlled from the soleniode block in the transmission. and you can not rewire the older solenoide block to work with the newer ecm (tried this already) so get a 95-3-98 solenoide block, the 96 van computer,,96 van engine harness,96 van transmission harness,the air box and tubes from a 95-97 mass air f truck with a 351w (you can use the air box from the van but the tubes are different)weld 3 o2 sensor bungs in the y pipe. 1 on left bank 1 on the right bank and one after the converter, and you will also need the harmonic balancer and timing cover and crank trigger from the van (or 96 truck) now you have a factory ford mass air kit that works on 5.0-5.8-7.5 yes thats rite it works to make a 460 mass air to. the wiring is the same from the 5.8 and 7.5 but the ecm has different calibration because of timing and bigger #24lb injectors for the 460. 1996 ford trucks and vans are all obd2 some of the mass air trucks and vans are calibrated for california emmissions the above van ecm numbers i gave out is for a 96 federal van with a 7800 gvw (e150 e250) there are 6 different california emmission ecm`s for the 351w and 3 federal ecm`s you will have to do your own homework if you want to pass california,new york,or mass emmissions. there is also high altitude calibration again have to do your own home work. there is a few things that you need that i did not write down (vaccume solenods egr pressure sensor map sensor egr tube egr valve ect ) if i`am going to do all that you should just bring me your truck and i will do it for you and it will run good. dont go buy the ford conversion kit way to much money. you are better off getting the parts from the bone yard. then you can get all the major and small little parts and still have money left to fill both gas tanks with some 94 oct gas so you can test it out i need a transmission harness from a 1995- 3-1998 e4od van or truck if anyone that reads this has one that is in good shape i will buy it. mine is all spliced now

 

Speed density harnesses have the eight injectors wired in batches of four, so you'd need to remove these links and rewire.

The easiest way I found is to grab the EEC connector off a junkyard vehicle with a long-*** chunk of the wiring, enough that will easily reach your injectors. Snip it with tin snips or a hacksaw and take it home. Then pop open your existing EEC connector, as well as the new one, and remove eight wires from the new connector, with the EEC pins. Install those pins into your existing EEC connector in the injector pins, and run the wires to the eight injectors. Solder to the connectors that plug into your injectors (you left 6-8" of wire on them, didn't you?), and cover with heat shrink tubing for a nice waterproof seal. Same for the additional three MAF wires.

If you already have a mass air harness, all eight injectors have their own wiring, so reordering them is even easier. Pop open either the engine to body connector (near the driver side valve cover) or the EEC connector, and rearrange the injector pins to match your new firing order, then reassemble the connector. No soldering necessary.

You can always buy the "official" conversion kit but either solution above is nearly free, though not a direct "plug in and go" solution.

Soldering automotive wiring is easy. A 40W iron will work just fine. Strip back about 1/2" of insulation off the two wires you want to join, slip over a piece of heat shrink tubing over one of them, then twist the bare ends together for a mechanical connection. Put the iron tip under this joint, touching the copper, wait a second, then dab solder all around the joint. Let cool, snip off any extra or sharp protrusions of the join, then slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint and heat it so it shrinks, forming a water proof seal.

I made a mass-air 460 engine harness from scratch this way. A connector from this car, a connector from that truck, total mix and match but the "cost" was a weekend of my time and about $10 at the junkyard.

 

fredric did your 460 conversion use a crank trigger system like my 351w? i`am also doing a 460 conversion but i`am using a 87 carb engine with ultra low miles 40,000 orignal i have to find some efi heads for sure or i am going to modify a 4 bbl intake make a plate to use a oval throttle body bolt it to the intake witch will have a egr plate from 70`s 460 use 96 351 egr valve and pressure sensor (because of it small size ) should work out good t body will point strait up after market fuel rail the rest should work in theory wiring sensors ect all this for a 4x4 van 410 gears dana 60 front and rear 8 inch lift e40d still gathering parts so some of this might not work will keep you posted

 

I just used an EFI 460 distributor, a black remote-mounted TFI module, and the usual slew of wires between no problem.

I'm not using EDIS at this point so I could get away with the "old school" stuff.

 

i figure if i do it with the carb heads i`am not limited to small valves and large combustion chanbers. if it works i can use cobra jet heads and really make some axel breaking driveshaft twisting power lol

 

Adding EFI to a carb intake isn't very difficult. You can buy injector bungs from a variety of places, drill holes in the intake, weld or epoxy the bungs in, then die grind the inside of the runner so the part of the bungs that hang down are reasonably flush/shaped.

VW now sells threaded bungs for replacements on some of their later cars, so you could drill and use a metric tap, and just screw the bungs in.

For one intake, which was an Edelbrock aluminum intake, I "soldered" homemade bungs on using a product like durafix (or muggy weld, or alumalloy) and a MAP torch.

The below picture won't be visable until my ISP gets my T1 back online... it's down on the moment, but I'll put the link here anyway so when it comes back up you can see it (as i'll forget to post it later for sure):



And the "soldered" aluminum fuel rails:

 

Couldnt you just use a transmission controller and then piece togeather a MAF kit that will work the same as the FMS kit....? Thats what I plan to do...well actually im gonna just buy the kit because the junk yards around here are worthless. Then just get a baumman TCS controller and install them both, it will be perfect in the end becasue I will be able to tune the transmission any time i want. Oh you know what...isnt there a programmable computer that can be used that is better than the FMS computer that is in those kits?

 

ya you could just spend $600-1200 on a transmission controller and hope you get it set rite so you you dont smoke your $2000 e4od trans because of a incorrect setting. the only trans controller that is any good is a compushift.(my 2 cents) the solenoide block new from ford is like 300. you can buy them remanufactured on ebay for 125 and are just as good as new. while you are in there to change the block have the boost valve in the valve body updated because if there is a lot of miles on the trans 95% of the time the boost valve bore is out of spec and should be updated. (i know the e4od very well because i rebuild trannies) the solenoide block is no harder to change then adding a shift kit. and the updated solenoide block 95--3/98 is way better designed then the older version but it requires either 95-97 ford ecm or a trans controller. cheaper to use stock ford parts a 98% drop in. lots and lots of 95-97 mass air trucks and vans to get parts from. also most junk yards have a core pile or non working transmissions (broken bell housings , burned, ect ) probley get one for like 25 bucks that way. any e40d trans from 95--3/98 has this solenoide block in it. they are easy to test to make sure they are good and just bolt in (new gaskets) you can put the newer solenoide block in the old trans no problem. if i remember rite the older one has 7 pin connector and newer one has 9 pins. a trans controller will make a e4od shift and feel a lot better then stock ecm no doubt about it. but if this is a daily driver and not something you are jumping 8 ft dirt piles or trying to make a 6000 lb truck ****** the front tires off the ground from the light you really dont need to hear the rear tires chirp when it shifts from 1st to 2nd at 6800rpm lol. they work good when pulling heavy trailers or the truck has a ton of tools it carts around all day long. because it firms up the shifts witch means less clutch slipage and longer transmission life. i have access to most of the parts for these mass air conversions. tons of parts. wire harnesses, ecm`s, and even the trans parts. the thing that is the hardest to get a hold of is the air cleaner and plumbing for the mass air vans. but this can be easily be home made with some thought and a good hardware store. i live in detroit michigan and the cars here dont last long because of salt, junk roads, and people talking on their cell phones while they are driving. has to be 20 big junk yards within 15 miles of my house. guess i should start visiting them and start getting the parts required for these conversions and listing them for sale on the board. thanks for reading

 

Well the baumman TCS seems to be a good unit, I dont plan on drag racing but it is my toy but I will drive it to work regular. I dont see myself doing a swap with the 95-97 stuff seems cheaper yet more of a hassle with all the extra o2 sensors and passing california smog and all. If there was a difinitve guide on how to do this I would look into it but right now I have to piece too much togeather.

 

the only guide you need is a chiltons manual and a $15 atsg (automatic transmission service group) e4od rebuild manual that you can get from ebay or any trans shop. then everything is factory stock. you have wiring diagrams,test instructions, and even some pictures. i gues it is easy for me because i have 2 1996 vans that have mass air to copy from. like i said the van air box is the hard part to find. but if you have a pick up its easy. more pickups then vans in the salvage yards.