I suppose I could have. I had a mustang wiring harness but it was too short so would have had to splice a bunch of wires anyway so I just did it from what I had. Not too bad a job. Figure I made a wiring harness for the injectors and wired them in place, moved 2 wires for the smog stuff, and added in the mass air sensor (4 wires) and spliced the HEGO which is one wire. That isnt that much work. Would have taken much more time actually if I had used a mustang harness. I make cables for a living so that part was easy actually.

EPNCSU2006 you just tied the wire from 43-29 for the O2 sensor? I am using the A9P computer by the way. As far as the knocking goes it was on a pretty steep grade (12%)it was knocking like crazy I was not using the best fuel in the world. This engine is so tired though that you could do 65 and hit a VERY small hill and by the time you hit the top you would be doing 55. It was rediculous. Now this thing just hums up it. Wondering if there wasnt something wrong with the other computer in the first place.

Canister purge I guess I wont worry about since it isnt throwing a check engine light or anything. I will run codes tomorrow and see where that sits.

Let you know later.

Thanks!

Brett

 

Painless parts sells them in the regular length and also extra long. And also, what do you guys think of this? http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...41&prmenbr=361 It looks interesting.

 

What do they charge? Only cost me about 50.00 to make my harness and some time. Really wasnt that hard just time consuming.

 

Yeah. I'm trying to find the easiest way of doing this but I guess when it comes down to it, the Ford Racing lightning kit is the easiest since everything's just plug and play. I woulnd't mind both making it MAF and putting in a real mustang intake and everything and maybe a HO 302.

 

that is what I am doing.. just got done with the harness. Now all I need is to finish my motor and will drop that in next week. I will let you know how that goes

 

I am seriously considering the FRP MAF conversion kit for my 93 F150 with 302 and 5 speed. The FRP kit at $675 seems reasonable for a bolt on. The FRP kit is 100% bolt on, isn't it? I have a few questions regarding MAF conversions.

1)- aside from the ability to change cam, heads, etc. for more performance, does the MAF conversion itself offer any improved performance over the SD set up?

2) will fuel milage improve over SD since it fires the injectors sequentially instead of batch firing?

3) does the MAF do away with any of the troublesome SD hardware, like throttle switch, etc..

thanks,
Ed

 

answers 1 and 2 are pretty much the same. SEFI is much more efficient. I went from about 11mpg to almost 14, much better throttle response, and broader power band, just with this change.

as for #3, no. You still need the throttle position sensor etc... You do get to plug up a hole in your manifold where the MAP sensor was though if that is any consolation. The FRP kit is definately the way to go if you have the $$$ to throw at it. I took a long look at the process and decided to go at it myself. No problems except a bad mass air unit.

Cheers

Bdd

 

when did they start making MAF? Is that what the new trucks use to or do they call it something else?

 

To make it easy for other truck ownders wanting to do this, what does the mustang EFI system use that the F-150 EFI system doesn't? I understand the trucks have the knock sensor and the mustangs have some canister solenoid or something like that.

 

EPNSCU2006, out of curiosity are the 30lb injectors that come with the lightning MAF kit big enough for a 514? Here's the 514 I'm looking at.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=6188

 

I came upon this nice product on the stylinconcepts.com website. It's for 1995 trucks with mass airflow sensors. It goes right on the dual throttle body and all. Will that 80mm mass airflow sensor fit on this cold air intake? That would be very awesome if it would.

 

dalmation.... I have been watching your posts for a while in different areas.. You are like all over the place with what you want and are "going to get" and I got a kick out of how you "loosened up" your tight motor. I am just wondering where you are going with all this? What is your end design and maybe we can help. One minute you want one motor, now you are talking about a 514ci motor? What exactly are you trying to do or build?

Just fyi it would take at least 42lb injectors to support a 625hp motor.

 

Sorry about all the questions. I'm trying to make my truck like a modern Lightning. The end result will more than likely be a 302 bored and stroked over to a 347. The kit is basicly a rebuild kit for the motor and it's only $1,200 which is alot cheaper than any crate motor. I decided to get some cast iron World heads with 200cc intake runners and a 64cc combustion chamber. And I'm eventually going to put in a MSD distributor, coil, and a ignition box. The cam I'm going to get is the Crane cam for 1993 302 trucks. I'm going to do the ignition and the cam first because they're both cheaper and they both don't cause any problems with the SD system. I really hope I'm not geting annoying with all the questions. So far asking is the best way to learn.

 

No worries on the questions, just wondering where it is all going. In stead of a 347, why not a 351? Then if you wanted to get sick you can stroke that (up to 428ci!). In trucks you want loads of low end torque. Bang for the buck the 351 would be the way to go.

I also would change out that SD for mass air first off and get a more aggressive cam. Why do it twice? If you plan on using aftermarket heads, the increased cam profile will make better use of the flow characteristics of the new heads.

Cheers

 

With the Ford kit I get the 85 and 95 codes, one is the canister purge and the other is the secondary fuel pump circuit. These connections are not on my truck and I didn't connect them, FMS said I didn't need them. I get the codes but no CE light, it runs fine. The base timing is 10 degrees. I am able to run my setup at 14 with no trouble on midgrade and premium fuel, I haven't experienced any knocking. My old worn engine I replaced was knocking pretty bad up steep hills on warm days before I replaced it, no matter what grade fuel I ran.