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I have a 1966 f100 240 3 on the column. The previous over had changed the shift from the floor to the column using and old used part. He told me it sticks sometimes.
I got stuck in 3rd gear trying to go out to 2nd and it wouldn't budge. Finally got it to move from under the hood and then managed to get back to the shop. I have not been stuck until now driving it around.
So, I went to my mechanic friend who restores old vehicles for a living, and he told me 99 % of the time it is in the shifter column where they wear out and get stuck in gear. He suggested to try to find a
complete new column if possible if anyone makes them. He said given the amount of time to rebuild the shifter and then the rest of the column is still old make more sense to get a complete new
one top to bottom if I can find one. I have been looking on all the usual parts places but no luck. I have a manual steering 2wd 66 ford f100. Seems all the parts are available but not a complete assembled one.
I found this on EBAY and want some input. I'm pretty sure I would go this route.
2MonkeyBoys has 100% positive feedback. Having noticed that - the column they show for sale in that picture is not 1964-1966. 1964 did not use a rag joint. This does appear to be at least partially correct for 1965-1966 but the shift arm and turn signal lever are from a newer truck like a 1967 or later. It is a used column that says rebuilt with all new parts. I'd assume not much difference between that and your column if it were rebuilt using all new parts also. Personally, I think $800 is a lot for a rebuilt column. And having to send yours away as a core when yours is likely correct wouldn't be something I'd do.
Thanks
Im still deciding on what to do here. I was planning on keeping the original turn signal lever and shift lever and send the ones back that eBay's shows with the item. I just want the column.
I'm not sure what is required to rebuild the shift column but would like any extra help on that if anyone has some links
If you prefer not to do your own work the column on eBay might not be too bad. They put a sealed bearing on the lower end of the shaft which is not a bad change. The originals are a bit exposed to the elements and they can rust some and get gritty and fall apart in some cases. This video isn't too bad and it shows how easy they are to rebuild but his lower bearing has already fallen apart so he just shows pulling the outer race with his pilot bearing puller.
If the bearing has not fallen apart but still needs to be replaced, I like to use a Dremel tool with a thin fiber cut-off wheel to cut the inner race. Once that is cut most of the way through you can pry it some and the bearings will start to fall out. Once they are mostly out then the inner race will fall out. Then I use a similar puller to pull the outer race like in the video. You can also cut the outer race carefully with the Dremel if you go slow and don't cut all the way to the Retainer that holds the lower bearing.
I like to use the original style lower bearing for that genuine look, but it's totally optional.
One more thing I'll mention while on the topic. I don't often recommend one product since there are so many choices on the market but something like this. I use Super Lube synthetic grease to pack the upper and lower bearings. Before you run grab your typically wheel bearing grease let me explain.
This product is a little different and this is right from the back of the package.
Benefits: Compatible with most other greases. Outlasts conventional grease by 3-4 times. Has excellent adhesion. Impervious to salt water and road salt. Long lasting.
Good from -45 to 450 degrees F so it won't run out under normal conditions. It's not a fibrous grease either so it doesn't gum up the steering or dry out over time. It's also compatible with plastics like the turn signal switch and is Dielectric meaning it is non-conductive.
I pack the bearings by putting a dab in the palm of a clean hand and work it into the outer edge of the bearing continuing to add more until it is just squeezing out the opposite side all the way around.
Ford would have used this type of stuff if it had been available.
Would it be worth first replacing the easy to get parts, such as the bushes, applying lube to the levers and making sure there isn't too much slop in the shift rods? Just a thought before going all in on a rebuild.
Rebuilding isn't too difficult, I did a similar conversion back to original 3-on-the-tree from floor shift a few years ago. There are some videos on Youtube and plenty of parts diagrams to help with assembly order. Good luck!
AMEN to the Super Lube synthetic grease. We started using it back in the 1980's on elevator servo bearings that were only lasting a couple of hundred hours and doubled their life. Now I put that $%^# on everything.
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