Ok got the starter out. That was an easy one. I think I see the two bolts you're talking about on the passenger side.

 

Could you guys elaborate a bit on this step here -



Transmission Bolts: * Automatic: Remove the inspection cover and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate (rotate the engine by hand to reach all of them)

 

There is a sheet metal cover on the bottom front of the transmission/rear of the engine that covers the bottom of the flexplate/flywheel and allows inspection of the clutch on a manual. It is right in front of where the bottle jack is, about where the exhaust crossed over. Should be 2-4 screws holding it on.
Once that is removed, you can see the flexplate and the torque converter. You will need to rotate the engine to get to all the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate.

 

There are two hoses to remove on the PS pump. The high pressure one and the low pressure return. Look to the rear of the pump if I remember correctly.

 

Would that imply I need to drain the PS fluid to remove this part? Haven't done this before.

 

That's the best way. I sucked out mine with a lube bottle pump into a clean container and reused mine. Another poster mentioned tying up the lines and securing them so they don't drain and are out of the way. If you don't do that it will be messy.

You can toss the PS fluid and flush with new too. Mine was recently serviced and fresh when I had to remove mine then I poured it back in on reinstall.

 

Thanks these use ATF not PS fluid right?

 

l'm using power steering fluid that I got from my Ford dealer. I think it just says power steering fluid on the bottle. It's Motorcraft.

Looked it up in Chiltons says 83 to 86 Dexron II ATF.

 

My 87-96 Chiltons says Ford Premium Power Steering fluid. ESW-M2C33-F

I just noticed you're working on a 7.3

 

Ford type F trans fluid is used in the power steering pump.

 

Looks like you're makin' good progress. .. Try and grab a good, well balanced chain link when pulling.

Yes Type F atf is for the PS , or, a blend ATF/STP. Blue bottle. A little grey bottle is okay too, if it ever leaks, but I would recommend use mostly ATF/Blue bottle STP.

I'm on straight BB STP because I was tired of it dripping, the more STP ratio the less noisy and drippy it will be.

 

I just went to the garage and this is what the Ford dealer sold me for my 86 F250

 

Made a lot of dumb mistakes but finally got it pulled out.

I hope I didn't do any permanent damage.

1) I didn't remove the flex plate and was wondering why the engine stand plate was making weird contact with the flex plate. I guess moving that out of the way and remounting wont be too bad now.
2) I forgot to detach the exhaust bolts from the passenger side and kept wondering wth was keeping the engine from moving forward when it was on the hoist.
3) I had left the starter attached (without bolts) so it wouldn't get puddled on with the rain from yesterday and starting lifting the engine with that attached..yeah no bueno there.
4) The strap I used to lift the engine was way too long at first and this caused really bad contact between the engine and trans cooler, which is positively gone now..oh well. I learned a lot so far..

Seems like both heads have a HG leak plus a couple in the front end as well.

 

EXCELLENT!

Give us a pic of the truck too. Did you disassemble the front end, or lift the engine over the grill?

 

Here it is, nevermind the flat front tire. I never needed to deflate it. I got big plans for the paint and already have some nice alcoas for it.