If you would use some dowels it would help prevent what you got going on. Do not try pulling it together with bolts. When things are aligned it will slide together without much effort.

 

Well if you have some blocking to put under it, it can't fall too far. That's usually what I do with the E4OD cus she's a big one. A C6 or something, I just cram her in there.

 

I got the transmission bellhousing and engine lined up perfectly. Put the bolts in but did not tighten them. Regarding not damaging the transmission when I connect the flex plate to the torque converter - Please correct me if I am wrong - I will spin the flex plate and line it up with the torque converter studs, once that is lined up. I tighten the bell housing to engine bolts all the way and allow the torque converter studs to fall into the flex plate holes. Once they are in the holes. I still need to wiggle the torque converter closer and that's how I know it won't damage the trans, right?

 

Yeah, once you can draw the converter tight to the flexplate using the nuts, with the bellhousing snugged or tight, you know you're good. Sounds like you're just about there.

 

Thanks got everything in, just waiting for that little oil dipstick funnel thing. Might that be something the dealers carry? I cracked this in the process and it needs to be replaced as well. Any idea on what it is? It's on the driver side.

 

That looks like a vacuum distribution mainfold. Nothing rally fancy about it, could probably replace it with a Tee fitting of the correct size.

 

You might contact @genscripter if you want an OE replacement for that vacuum manifold. I read on his website that he experimented with 3D printing a replacement for the 6.9l trucks.

https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/

 

I would probably just remove an unused plug and plug that vacuum hose in one of the plugged off ports, then fill the broken section with jb weld.
I doubt too many dealers will still carry the lower oil fill tube, no. You'll probably have to order that from one of the few that still do.

 

Good idea

 

Alright guys, im at the point where I can almost turn the truck on and see if it doesn't just blow up.. ha. I have a few last questions I hope.. Pic one shows a connection I cant locate. It's on the same cable where the 2 connectors to the fuel filter are, can anyone take a look and let me know where it goes? Pic 2 is another funky connection that I don't think was ever connected anywhere (or maybe it was) and goes to 3 different places from T, no clue where any of those tiny tubes go, also hoping someone can check in their rig and post a pic here. Pic 3 was connected to the engine near the dipstick area and has a 120v wall plug on the other end? What's that about?

What's the consensus on using radiator flush chemicals? I have heard they can jack up old trucks and even cause leaks. I was hoping to use some for good measure after I found what looked like oxidation in the passages but not sure? I have distilled water in it now.

 

The vacuum hoses go to your hvac, it controls the vacuum operated solenoid cans under the dash for your defrost vents feet switches. ..

The 115v plug if for the block heater, it is in the freeze plug on the pass side bottom of the block under the starter,

I wouldn't use it, it works great, but mine got leaky, I ended up putting a brass freeze plug instead, and use an external block heater.

But it's fine, as long as yours doesn't leak, it heats quick it's like 13 amps, and will heat the block in just about an hour.

 

Thanks, what's the purpose of a block heater? Any luck with what pic.one may be?

 

I can't really tell in the pic. ..

The block heater is because the engine won't like to start in cold temps. ..

The diesel oil is thick, and the fuel doesn't spark off like gas, it requires getting up to 150F to really ignite. ..

That means you need either functioning glow plugs or ether starting fluid (never both at the same time) and,

if it get's really cold, below 35 give or take, you can plug in a heater for 1+ hrs to make it start like the engine was already warmed up.

 

The wire at the fuel filter, maybe that goes on the bottom plug for the water in fuel light?
You can test it for power and if there is none, when you ground the water in fuel light wire, the light in the cab turns on.

You have the top plug, plugged in. The red wire. It goes to the fuel heating element (which probably burned out years ago). That should be unplugged and capped off. If that fitting leaks, it blows a fuse, that's on with the E4OD transmission and causes it not shift correctly.
Ideally, you'll take that apart, tap and plug it also, for preventive maintenance, to keep it from ever leaking. I see where you ordered your gaskets from, sells an adorable kit. I used a brass plug in the F250 but a galvanized plug w/ jb weld has proved effective since 2013 on the F450 also. Parts from lowes or home depot.

I used chemical rad flush in the replacement engine of the F450 recently. The low mile engine had been sitting for so long, it was so nasty, I didn't see any other way. Didn't think anything of it. I'd use it again.

 

Alright guys, I got a crank and no start. I went through all the fuel lines and did find loose injectors that were bubbling, took them out and some were missing the coper washers, guess those fell out along the way? Fuel leaks are gone but still no start. I purged the air from the valve while engine was cranking till only fuel came out with no air. Verified all caps on snapped on and nothing else is loose or orings cracked on caps. I have something that looks like a ground terminal that is empty. I know something went there before I pulled the engine but I have no pics of what was there. Can you guys please take a look in your tuck and see? This area is directly to the right of the glow plug solenoid when standing in front of the truck looking at engine.