That's it.

 

I'm trying to remove the fan clutch but it's giving me hell. I'm finding both opinions on which direction I should be pulling to remove. Do I pull my wrench in the direction of the drivers side or passenger side when facing the truck to loosen the nut?

 

You don't use a wrench for removing the fan, you use a large steel bar, I use a straight 'ish crowbar or a dulled 'giant chisel'. ..

The lands on the nut are quite large, to remove, position your strike point on the nut, 85% of the way towards the right of one of the nuts lands.

Firmly place your impact device onto appropriate spot on the nut, and strike your bar straight down with a small sledge, or large hammer.

It will pop and turn with just a few whacks.


This nut is reverse normal direction, righty loosy, lefty tighty.

Tightening later, is reverse of removal.

Looking at the engine, from in front of the truck.

Strike face
Picture >

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Loosen





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Tighten

 

Thanks Leroy. I tried going towards the right the way you described and still nothing. Can I just do this whole thing with the fan on? I already removed the radiator and I feel like there might be enough space.

 

I wouldn't, you'll need that fan off, now or later, might as well get it figured out, I think it will be all kinds of in the way.

I would turn the fan and get a fresh spot if you ding one up before figuring it out, instead of leaving the fan on, but that's me.

you'll have to have this skill anyways, you'll be removing that fan now and again for years as you will wrench on your truck.

It's not hard, but dont be gentle, it takes a good hard hit, you won't break it, but also dont buggar up the threads, strike point placement and tool are key.

but if it won't budge, then I guess it stays on, I would carefully, lightly, use a torch if maybee there was threadlocker on there or it was overtightened.

 

It's been a while, but I used a large pair of channel locks on the big nut. Reverse left hand threads so use your left hand make a fist and point your thumb in the direction you want to move the nut your fingers are pointing in the direction you want to turn the nut.

 

The hard part is keep the pulley from turning while you're trying to loosen that nut

 

So I got a chisel set and a heavier hammer and it did the trick. Thanks man

 

Yeah, I use the fan clutch hold tool to hold it, preferably have someone hold it, while you place the fan nut wrench on and SMACK it had with a 3 lb. If still no luck, torcth the nut and smack it again, she'll loosen.
Left hand threads, means it feels like your tightening when you're loosening and visa versa. When I converted to electric on the f250, I just used a chisel too. It works.

 

Almost ready to pull the engine but rain in my area has held me up. I have a few things that are still connecting the engine and was hoping for clarification and to not yank anything off that may be attached while pulling.

Is this the only connection to the PS that needs to unbolt(see below)? I've done everything in the front, wire harness, radiator etc, after this I'm assuming the only things left are the motor mounts, the exhaust and the trans right? Also, is this good enough support and the right area to hold up the trans after it's detached from engine?

 

Looks like you're well on your way to me. With the trans crossmember still in, the trans cant roll on ya, so the bottle jack looks good. You can unhook ps hoses from either side, but at pump is best like you're planning, cus then the hoses can be tied up out of the way over on the truck side.
If you don't have a set of torches for the exhaust nuts, I don't envy you, and wish ya luck! haha I get them suckers glowing red before I put the 6 point on 'em. I just had to replace all the studs in my banks kit, in my f250 this past summer. They just eventually rusted and lost their threads. I found the best replacements at a hardware store, rather than the auto stores. Ending up finding the perfect replacements locally.

 

Thanks, so just that one connection at the PS and I'm good right? Could you guys confirm there are only 6 bolts that connect the engine to the trans bellhousing? Anything else I am missing here besides the engine mounts (2 nuts on driver side and another 2 on the passenger right?

 

On one side, I found it easier to remove the motor mount bolts from the block I think, where the other, I found it easier to pull the bolts and leave the mount on block. You just follow your nose as you go. 6 bell housing bolts sounds about right, but you'll know when you go to pluck the engine and it doesn't come, you left the starter in or a belhousing bolt haha. You'll just start lifting and shaking (the cheery picker side to side) as you go, lifting slowly. If you miss something, just look around and unhook it, it's really as simple as that when pulling an engine. You just disconnect what you see between engine and truck. You'll find everything as you go, don't worry.
Unbolt the converter nuts. Leave converter in trans (remove it, to replace seal in pump, but then put converter right back in, turn several times while pressing inward to make sure converter fully seats). Turn crank bolt, to access the 4 nuts, as needed and when you line it back up, when putting engine in, do so with care. If converter is not fully seated, you could press flexplate hard against converter and harm the pump! You'll know it's right, when you can still spin converter with bellhousing bolts snugged up.

 

I did leave the starter in and the inspection plate does that need to come out?

 

It sure does. Engine and trans cannot separate with it bolted in.