I finally have enough room to do this job. F250 1992 7.3IDI non turbo 143k, I have never done a HG job but have done simpler things like suspension work, swap starters, pulleys,timing belts, replace valve cover gaskets, suspension/brakes, engine/trans swaps etc. The best quote I can get in my area for this job (including the seals and any other preventative work that is easier with the engine out) is around $6k. It's steep, def more than I paid for the truck. I have already tried retorquing the head bolts with no luck.

***SYMPTOMS*** - Almost absent, the only reason I know I have a HG leak is because I can see it bubbling out near the head, close to where the oil filter is located (please see clip). I am positive there is a leak there and its not just something that is leaking from above and boiling at that point. I am not overheating, no water in oil etc etc.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MBjqbJCKkt5Enmm99

I want to make this truck nice, fix mechanical issue and get it a nice paint job, keep it stock, maybe a slight leveling front lift, keep it for the rest of my life and take it fishing or cruising around on the weekend (maybe that's my answer right there). I have a few questions and concerns.


1. I have heard I need a valve job for job like this but have no idea how or what that is, never done one. Can this be something that can be learned or leave it to the pros?
2. Besides pulling the engine and checking for uneven surface of head, sending to machine shop if so, and adding a new HG what else is there? I'm a big youtube learner and the lack of videos is a concern, I don't have a buddy that knows how to work on these unfortunately
3. Just concerned I will pull engine split it and be overwhelmed I guess.
4. Dumb question alert - what if i just add some high temp epoxy to that are to keep that leak from leaking?

I think this may have happened after using seafoam. I'm not positive but I suspect it may have cleaned out whatever buildup was keeping that leak tight, not sure it matters as it's there now. What do you guys think?

 

It's certainly a job, but it's nothing overwhelming, or beyond the capabilities of a regular dude with all the right tools, and competent mechanics experience, and good care. ..

Here's a rough run down. ..

You don't need a valve job, or to have the block or heads machined necessarily, it will probably not be needed.

General process. ..

Mark, the alignment, and then Remove the IP, and all lines together with it as an assembly.
This takes a 12p 5/16 socket. ..
Remove soft return lines, wiring, ect...

Drain radiator and block of coolant.
I would pull out the stock block heater to get it drained.

later just replace the heater with a brass freeze plug, or put it back in there if it doesn't leak, and you want to keep using it.

Pull the intake manifold.

I very carefully used blades and a putty spreader to gently remove the valley pan aluminum gasket and pan...

It ia recommended by everyone to relace this with a new pan, it's an aluminum stamped sheet gasket.
They cost 100 dollars, and are crush to fit single use.

I was very careful, and didn't bend or damage it, if you manage to remove it with no damage, you can reuse it. If undamaged, when replacing, use permatex aviation form-a-gasket on all mating surfaces, and on pan mate surfaces, and re assemble, and it works perfect with no leaks, but if you're unsure, opt for a new valley pan gasket.

I used a fel pro rebuild gasket kit, that worked out well for me, it was about 150 dollars...

So you got the intake off..

If it's a 6.9, it has 7/16 12p head bolts, if 7.3 1/2 12p heads. ..

You want a good 1/2 inch breaker bar, and torque wrench, and a good assortment of 1/2 extensions, wobbles and adapters, to reach everywhere, especially the tough to reach back passenger side.

Pull the fan shroud, fan, and radiator out, to make room to stand in front of the engine and have access to everything. ..

Remove the head bolts, on 6.9 engine you can reuse the stock head bolts, if you want.

on 7.3 engine you must use new oem quality bolts or performance grade head studs.

If it's a 6.9 and you're reusing them,
keep them in order in a punched out cardboard box, and after cleaning them, you want to replace them in their original locations.

Remove the dipstick tube, if possible, on some engines it wont come out easily, I couldn't get mine out, and had to pull it with the head by brute force, and later replace the whole dipstick tube and dipstick.

But Pull the dipstick the correct way, if it will come out. ..

Remove the exhaust manifold bolts, leave the manifolds in the truck attached to the exhaust pipe.

Thread some bolts with chains onto a head,

Use a cherry picker to lift the head up off the block, straight up.

Jack and slide back up out the front.

Repeat with the other head.

Put towels, rags, paper towels, in excess, everything you need to, everywhere, in to valley, and pack into each cylinder hole.

Use wire wheel drill, razors, scrapers to remove all gasket material, on the block and heads.

*if* you have experience blocking auto body work, and or are good at sanding straight and flat. ..

Use a perfectly flat, open and inspect all honing stones at the store with a straight edge rule.. If you do.

But, you can find and use a knife sharpening stone, or a plane of glass with sandpaper.

Use these to resurface and cut the block and heads flat ..

Don't go nuts, you just want to cut the real bad high spots and imperfections out , I went 85% good enough and perfectly flat.

You don't want to bump compression or cut anything uneven, keep it flat no matter what, even if it doesn't cut as better looking as if you tried to work a section, if cutting by hand, don't focus on one rough spot, do the entire head or block as if it were one flat surface, do the entire thing evenly, and get it better by only repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, the entire thing, not just one spot where it was leaky.

The fire rings in the pre cup inserts will be cracked, this is normal, and don't be concerned, it doesn't effect anything.

If a valve shows visible uneven burn, or if you want you can place fluid on the valve face, and try to blow shop air into the intake or exhaust and look for bubbles, indicating leaking.

Mine were fine, if leaking slightly, you can remove the valve stem locks and spring, put a length of rubber hose over the valve and into a drill, and use cutting and then polishing compound, spinning and cutting the contact patches to match, looks good? Replace spring and keeper and check again for leaking. ..

Also, you can have the heads machined and the valves ground at a shop, but it would probably be unessisary, if you have a shop cut em, take the least possible material off em and have am check for a crack where it was leaking, but you'll proba ly be able to visually identify the break in the head gasket, so then it's not a crack.

After everything is cut flat, and gaskets removed.

Clock and mark on the balancer, where the engine is first,

Then Turn the motor by hand, pushing all the grime and dibris and rags up and out of the cylinder by turning the pistons up, clean the cylinders, up and out of everything really well, super clean everything.

Use alcohol, and rags, then cotton bolls, clean and clean, heads and block, until you see no more oil or anything on any cotton bolls, then clean everything 4 more times completely.

Use alignment pins or copper tube for the block to help line up the heads. ..

Reinstall the bolts, chains, onto the heads, and prepare the cherry picker.

These are too heavy to install by hand.

Be sure the head is perfectly perpendicular to the block,

you only got 1 chance to get the reinstallation right, it has to be perfect,

And once you start, you cant stop.

If you mess it up you'll need a whole nother head gasket. ..

Line the head up over the block, and turn the cherry picket hydraulic release nut, to very slowly lowering, like, as slow as it will go.

Stand there and just rock it back and forth and slide it onto the dowels.

Repeat for the other side. ..

Use light motor oil on the threads of the head bolts.

Look online for a diagram of the head bolt torque sequence, follow it,

Go in steps, complete the sequence at 25 lb, 45, 70, 95 lbs
For the 6.9 you can tighten the stock bolts to 90-95 lbs, for the 7.3 with new oem, or studs, you can go higher, but you'll have to ask or find out how high, I only did the 6.9 at 95.

Use form-a-gasket on the valley pan gasker, new or reused.

Install and torque intake in sequence and to the proper torque.

Reinstall the fuel injection pump and lines, wiring, exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts, block heater or freeze plug.

Reinstall engine fan, remember, that fan is backwards, righty loosely, lefty tighty.

I remove and install it with a big hammer and a breaker bar or huge, dull chisle, on the edge of the flats of the rad fan bolt.

You'll need, cheap, small 9/16 wrenches or mod a special wrench, to fit on the 3 bolts to remove/ install the IP.

Very cheap, thin, small, 9/16 wrenches fit best, several of them, for different angles.

Reinstall the IP and lines, then reinstall the 5/16 12p bolts holding to the timing gear.

Rotate the IP to the former alignment marks. Tighten but loose, rotating the IP is how you time the fuel, and even if you get it perfect, visually, it's not right, the timing has changed, you'll need to retime the engine after rebuilding the top end.

That's a whole nother thing, but, here's how you can start by listening to the engine.

Too advanced will have a lot too much of diesel knock. Hammering the rods. No torque

Retarded timing will have increasingly have more exhaust thumping and less chatter.

You need to find the sweet spot, it is very small, carry your little 9/16 wrench and pull up and down a hill, again and again until you learn your engine feel and sound.

Reinstall and double and tripple check everything. Radiator, hoses, refill the coolant through the heater hoses and work it around to purge the air out, until you're sure it's circulating.

double and tripple check everything again, time the engine, and run it.

It took me about~ 3 days, doing everything very carefully.

 

Oh, also, you'll need to change the oil, before restarting it, there is coolant in the heads and intake pan area, there's no way to drain it all, and some coolant will drain into the lifter valley and engine, so you'll def also need to drain and change the oil.

 

Thanks for the detailed response. I think I may just pull the whole thing to make the front and main seal easier. I bet I can follow most of your steps either way and will have a few questions down the line when I start this project in the next few weeks.

 

Sure thing,

I would also recommend to get a good, brand new 12p socket for those head bolts.

Also, if doing the Rear Main seal, I would only use this exact brand. National Part No. 3893V

Some other brands might not do right. ..

These engines, are very particular on certain brands and part numbers for certain things, if you don't know just ask on here,

don't ever just use stuff that fits what rock auto or the parts counter guy says it fits, one brand is always better, and most many others are complete trash.

Like, for instance, if you pull the motor, don't change the motor mounts with fresh ones, reuse, stock are boss, repops are 100% all trash.

Ask these guys, for brands and part numbers if you don't know.

Cya later, and happy shopping and preping for surgery.

 

Thanks for the write up. I've never done the heads on my 6.9l before.

If you remove the heads with the engine in the truck don't you have to secure a few head bolts with a rubber band since they don't clear the AC box?

 

I would never do the job with engine in truck.So much easier to just pull the engine first. Then you get to replace the oil cooler seals super easy also, along with the rear main. Way too much bending over the truck for way too long for no time savings whatsoever.

 

I'm starting a parts list and would appreciate any input on what brands or kits I can go with. I have heard that there is plenty of junk seals and gaskets out there and to make sure I buy the "right" ones. I will be needing the obvious, HG, seals, manifold gasket. What types worked for you guys and what else am I missing?
I also tried looking for a good youtube tutorial where someone pulls a 7.3 or 6.9 and couldn't find a single one, I have the manual but visuals work best for me, anyone know of a good one out there? Thanks all.

 

Yep, oh yeah that's right, I forgot,

but I do think I remember having to do that, use rubber bands to pull them together or to the rocker arms to lift them in partly in place,

then secure them back few bolts partly inside the heads as you start lowering them down,

I don't recall exactly, probably the back 2 or 3, but you'll have to do something, you'll know, they don't come straight out and clear the HVAC box. ..

it's definitely tight in the back, you gotta get creative, especially have good 1/2 extensions,

reaching back there and tightening those head bolts is strong and you need to get a solid bite .

That's important, critical, good catch.. Can't forget to no band them together again while going to lower em, or you'd have to pull the head again.

Go ahead and pull the motor, if I had shop space w/ concrete floor, many tools, more time, I might have, but I probably also would have just done it the way I did, it wasnt tooo bad doing it in the truck.

Pulling the rad and fan, so I can stand up in front of the engine made a big help, if jumping in and out was a chore.

But, in my cas, I've never had any trouble with my oil cooler, and I believe if it's well enough, dont fix what aint broken..

I did it under a shade tree with minimal tools, good and quickly,

by all means, pull if you have leasure space and equipment and want a full overhaul, mines just the quick and dirty cheat sheet.

 

Thanks, that first part is only if you pull the head and not the whole engine right?

 

Yeah but had you, you would have learned you are on borrowed time to mix your coolant with oil. I can assure you, those 30+ year old rubber o rings are brittle.

 

Yeah, you only have to use rubber bands, tape, ect, to hold up the bolts out of the way, if doing it in frame,

it's just because there's no room to pull the long bolts straight out, in that cramped corner with the airbox.

No problem if you pull the motor.

The reason ther's no videos of anything, pretty much ever, is because while your doing stuff, you're essentially manhandling huge greasy, I don't know how many times I though,

"I'll take a picture or video for this" then looked down at my grease mess, picking up my phone or pressing buttons became out of the question. ..

If I did, It would never have come clean again.

I used International Navistar Thermostat with Gasket 1807974C94, NOS, I found one, new and dusty from 1987

Fel pro gasket kit worked out great

National rear main seal

Don't take the timing gear cover off, unless you are prepared and know what your getting into,

Would need to mark and carefully record the timing gear alignments with a scratch awl, and the gear stays in place if you don't take it off. ..

I think* that only 1 manufacture still makes the valley pan gasket, if so that's the one, just check.

Remove the mechanical fuel pump and replace the hole with a block off plate, if not done already.

Dont just leave the dead mech pump on there.

The fel pro gasket kit has most you'll need for this job and some extras, and it's good stuff

If you pull the oil pan and reseal, use the big caulk gun of, the right stuff black silicone, the right stuff, not regular silicone, do not use the included pan gasket.

About the oil cooler, I just use the old school green coolant only, usually better for o rings, rubber and stuff, maybee it will leak someday, but it's not ever leaked yet. .. from there anyway.



P. S.

Spectre bbc block plate, # 42473

Some have problems with other fuel pump plates, this brand and part number fits perfect, and is nice quality.


Melling MPC-85B Brass 1-1/2" Expansion Plugs Deep Cup Engine Freeze Plug "

fits the hole for the stock block heater

 

If you see any seeps of oil around the oil cooler bundle you might as well do it if you're in there deep for the heads. Consider yourself lucky if when the Orings go it's only an external oil leak and not a coolant oil mixture. My Orings were only about 20 years old when they blew oil. About 150,000 miles. Only use original green coolant too. There is a good oil cooler thread here on FTE. I added to it when I did mine.

 

This is actually my first diesel and I am very unfamiliar with many of the parts like the oil cooler, where is that located, and besides any obvious leaks what else do I look out for there? Thanks.

 

Yeah I hear you, I have been there before thinking I'm going to make a video out of something and it becomes hot messy and sweaty and I say F that! I recently replaced a leaking fuel pump. I know a lot of people rec changing to electric but I think I am ok for now. You're plate rec is assuming I upgrade to electric right? Is there anything wrong with thermostats from today that led you to use that old one? Thanks for the parts recommendations, I will post a complete list here once I get that together.