What do you guys think about this main and front seal kit? Do I need the sleeves, is there a better one you guys recommend?

https://classicdieseldesigns.com/products/6-9-7-3-idi-front-rear-main-seal-kits?srsltid=AfmBOorh2lVIpOYypEkJAxO1prhw9L9yjxmPt OYy5Skq2OndAiAvTTRs&variant=46245739593972

Looking at this fel pro kit but seems a bit steep -

https://www.partsgeek.com/r77z4xs-fo...8aAos1EALw_wcB

What about the manifold gasket? Any proven leader out there? I don't need the valve covers on the felpro kit, wonder if I can save a few pennies with this one below, are the Valve Stem Seals part of maintenance during this job? I think that's the only thing listed that comes extra with with the more expensive kit above.

https://www.partsgeek.com/1q8wjxs-fo...4aAnQ8EALw_wcB

 

Dumb question but when you guys refer to the front and main seals, what parts are we talking about here? What contact points do the front seal and the main seal, seal?

 

They seal the front and rear of the crankshaft

 

Do the main caps have to come off to do the front/rear seals, or do you have to remove the crank? If so, seems like you MAW rebuild the whole engine if you have to disassemble the short block.

What about the C6/T19 transmission? Does it just sit under the truck when you remove the engine?

 

The oil cooler is on the driver's side under the exhaust manifold. The screw on oil filter is attached to the rear under side of the oil cooler assembly. Two castings that bolt to the side of the block with a long cylindrical tube, the bundle, where adjacent tubes of oil and coolant run parallel and exchange heat between the castings. The bundle is separated by large Orings that exist inside the castings. It is tucked it there well and until it leaks you probably won't know it's there.

 

Thanks. I'm starting to find out that there's a lot more seals than I thought. At first, I thought there was just a front and main seal to be replaced during this project. Now I'm finding out there's a rear seal and all types of other seals regarding the oil cooler I should look into.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-thread.html

 

So to sum it down I need the front and rear cracnkshaft seal, plus the gaskets that go between the cooler and the engine right? Plus the HG itself, what else should I be getting? Thanks.

 

Did an AI search and the info actually seems pretty good, anything to add or omit? I'm probably not touching anything related to the IP, even rec brands, I know ARP is dried up, whats the next best thing? Wont be doing turbo ever.

1. Essential Seals & Gaskets

Aside from the ones you mentioned, these are critical for a leak-free build:

front and rear crankshaft seal, the gasket that goes between the oil cooler and the engine and the HG itself,

• Valve Cover Gaskets: Use the high-quality rubberized ones, not cork.
  
• Intake Manifold Gasket (Valley Pan): This is a large metal tray. It is technically the intake gasket and should always be replaced during an HG job.
  
• Oil Cooler O-Rings: You mentioned the gasket to the block, but the oil cooler itself has internal O-rings (two headers, one bundle). These are notorious for leaking oil into the coolant.
  
• Water Pump Gasket: Even if the pump is new, the gasket is a one-time use.
  
• Injection Pump (IP) Gear Housing Gasket: The gasket between the gear housing and the block.
  

2. The "Must-Do" Preventative Maintenance

• Head Bolts or Studs: The 7.3 IDI is known for stretching head bolts. Most enthusiasts strongly recommend upgrading to ARP Head Studs ($$$) to prevent future HG failures, especially if you ever plan to add a turbo. If using bolts, ensure they are new.
  
• Return Line Kit: The plastic caps and O-rings on the injectors (the "fuel return rails") almost always leak after being disturbed. Buy a complete kit with Viton O-rings.
  
• Oil Pressure Sender: Located at the back of the block; it’s a cheap part that is impossible to reach later.
  
• Glow Plugs: Replace these now with Motorcraft/Beru ZD-9s only. Avoid Autolite or Bosch, as they are known to swell and break off in the head.
  

 

What do you guys think about this set?
https://classicdieseldesigns.com/col...ine-reseal-kit

How about these? Seem very pricey
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-250-4204?srsltid=AfmBOorso8uzLqI1-IpCi5c6s2PrDSnnfVoCkvK2qvbJOnT98_LN53JfIcY

 

Be aware that removing the IP gear housing and reassembling it incorrectly can effect the timing of your IP. Of course, there's a specific way to reassemble the IP gear housing and timing gear cover to ensure that the cam and IP gear are timed correctly. I'm just not sure how to do it.

BTW, A+ for Classic Diesel Design. I bought a return line kit, injector nozzles and shims from them. They have good prices and speedy shipping. The injector shims I got from them were the incorrect parts and the return was easy.

 

I think this is the perfect kit for this project, what do you guys think? I know it has more than I need like the valve cover gaskets that I already did + other parts but I am hearing its a great brand - The guy from this company I just spoke with said I can go with stock head bolts if I am not running a turbo, thoughts?

https://classicdieseldesigns.com/col...ine-reseal-kit

 

There's no point in installing head studs on the 6.9 or the 7.3 n/a, and not even for turbo if you are going to just boost up to 10 psi w/ a standard bolt on idi turbo kit. You can push the 7.3l bolts upwards of like 15psi or so. If you have 6.9, you better go to studs. There's not much point in pushing the little turbo kits past 10 imo. You'll get more heat than power. Studs are engine built w/ custom larger turbos and other supporting mods, Putting studs on an N/A would gain nothing on either engine.

Research the rear main seal to tell if you need the one with the "install sleeve". I didn't need that one. if i recall, that's for when your rear removable plate has wear on it or something like that. You may want to ask for a standard rear main seal and there are different grades of those too. they only had the lower end type in stock when i did mine, had i planned better, i would have sprung for the higher end seal.

I'm surprised that one was chosen for his standard kit. Not sure why. There should be a known reason and purpose to use it, I recall that much.


Here's the tool and instructions for replacing your guide seals:

Blue Smoke @ Idle & Clean Under Load? How To: Valve Guide Seals

Having the engine out will make light work of this too. Disregard all while engine is in truck issues.

 

Thanks for valve stem link, is that usually done during the HG job? I don't currently have any issues with funky smoke, I do see it is included in the linked kit though. Please elaborate on the end seal, is that a low end or inferior type? I had heard viton was good stuff and I know thats whats prefered on the injector caps. Can the sleeve that comes with it just be removed? It's my first time doing seals for this truck, I don't know what anything looks like or what to expect.

 

I couldn't imagine being right there, especially with seals in hand, and not changing them wile it's like 1% the work as compared with engine in truck. You need to research IDI rear main seals and learn about your options.

Here's your start;


Google: 7.3l IDI rear main seal options

AI Overview

For the 1983-1994 Ford 6.9L/7.3L IDI diesel engines, primary rear main seal options include the
Fel-Pro BS15868-1 (includes seal and plate gasket), and the Ford/International 1819733C91 kit, which often includes a wear sleeve to repair damaged crankshaft surfaces. These, generally made of FKM/Fluoroelastomer materials, fit the older IDI, not the 94.5+ 7.3L Powerstroke.
Key Options & Considerations:

• Fel-Pro BS15868-1: Common, reputable aftermarket choice covering 6.9L and 7.3L IDI engines.
• OEM/International 1819733C91: Often preferred for durability, often bundled with a wear sleeve (often National Oil Seal #3893V included in kits).
• Wear Sleeve (Repair Sleeve): If the crankshaft has a groove from the old seal, a kit with a wear sleeve is highly recommended to ensure a proper, long-lasting seal.
• Installation: Requires removing the transmission and the rear seal housing plate.
• Seal Type: These engines typically use a standard rubber or FKM rear main seal, not the PTFE type used in later engines, though high-quality FKM is crucial.

Ensure you are purchasing for the "IDI" (non-Powerstroke) engine, as the 1994.5-2003 Powerstroke uses a completely different, larger seal.