Why is the large wire with the ring terminal off it's post?........and the nut missing.

To prime the IP takes a lot. You need to crank for a solid 15 seconds. Pause for a couple minutes, let the starter cool. Crank for another 15 seconds. It should prime or very close by the second time, if not crank for another 15 seconds after another couple minute cool down, or until it starts. Plugging in the block heater isn't a bad idea to help it fire when it does prime.
Make sure there is 12v at the FSS.

You still have the old mechanical fuel pump (I'll spare ya the scolding.....for now) so you have to prime all the way up the line from the tank, fill the fuel filter and and the IP, all while cranking the engine over.......I don't know how long that can take because I converted to electric pumps before I put my IDI's into service, well over a decade ago. I have electric pump, filling my filters for me during IP swaps, so priming doesn't take me anywhere near as long as it will you.

 

Thanks for that. I primed until the fuel came out without any bubbles, but I guess I need to go lot longer than I thought. Good catch on the picture. I thought the red wire might go in that mystery terminal but I'm wrong. It was connected when I tried to start it to the right area

What is the FSS?

Edit: the terminal at the top of the Ip

 

Alright guys I got it started! Unfortunately it's making a weird thump/ticking sound. Really hoping it's not anything major. Please take a look at the video. The air intake is making a loud sound like someone beating a hand drum along with a ticking sound at the same time. When I partially block the air is quiets down.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UcKYBpeHiYPtqMne8

 

Are you 100% sure the injector bores were clean from old washers? You didn't double any up? Are you 100% sure, you installed all your valve spring keepers correctly when you replaced the valve stem seals?

 

Get a mechanic's stethoscope; or at the very least, a length of vacuum hose in your ear to see if you can pinpoint the noise.

Hopefully, it's just some loose valve train parts that can be easily fixed. I'm not sure if you can do it with the 6.9l and 7.3l IDIs, but I've run a gasoline engine before without valve covers so you can see the rocker arms moving.

 

Yes positive. It sounds like this stems from the air intake.

 

Good question can I remover valve covers to see it running?

 

Yeah, you can run it with the valve covers off. ..

Try advancing the pump a little, the timing is too retarded. That is a lot of that sound maybe,

Could be a problem with an intake valve or rocker arm or keeper or something,

also x2 make sure you didn't double up injector washers, it's unlikely they weren't in there unless they removed em or shook loose milling the heads flat. ..

They do get covered with grime and are hard ish to see in their bores, if you find em stuck use a screwdriver to pull em out.

Glad you got er up n runnin' !!

 

You and f250 got me wondering now..I'm going back into the injectors and making sure there are no double washers or missing washers. Would a missing washer cause this noise?

 

A few things, you can't take out them injectors and just re seat them in the bore's again later. Just like that. ..

They work harden from being in the heads, you need them soft everytime you reinstall an injector, so that they seal properly,

To do this, you can use a brand new one, or pull the one in the bores out, and anneal it, resetting it's softness to crush and seal properly again.

To anneal one, remove it, and hit it with a torch until it's a solid dull glowing red, then either let it air cool or dunk it in water.

The washer needs to be soft to re seat and seal properly. ..

I can't *really hear what's going on real well, but for sure, that pump needs to be advanced a good little bit.

First things I'd do is go over all your injector washers and advance the pump a little, so you know that your starting from a good baseline, and see how it sounds,

One thing that might help, is to put a piece of card paper, like cereal box, on over the air cleaner hole, it should be sucking with all strokes, if it makes a pushed pulse once or something that's something to help diagnose. ..

I would do the injectors and pump, run it, see how it does, take the valve cover off for visual signs if any problems persist, and check the intake pulses if there is any more issue, to help track down if there's any problem.

 

Keep in mind, you don't adjust the timing with the engine running. You could damage the IP. Always make adjustments with engine off and have at least two of the three nuts snug.
This reminds me, you said you took the front timing cover off. Hopefully you got everything lined up properly.

 

Luckily I never had to remove the timing cover. I thought I did in order to remove the front plate but I carefully slid it off without messing with the cover. I think I got her running good now. I removed the injectors and added new copper washers and that seemed to do the trick .Im gona do a quick test drive when the sun goes down.



https://photos.app.goo.gl/YuH635u5crU4agD48

 

Thanks Leroy, see post above. I think it's running right now.

 

Ha ha , You got it. ..
Congratulations on the nice build !

 

Thanks couldn't have done it without you guys. Took it for a quick drive around the block. Brakes must be full of air and need to be bled but the engine itself ran good.